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That will give you plenty of room. The trich to a straight wherl is get the tires as straght as possibe then connect it up, then center the steering wheel and adj the tie rods close to the same lenght and set toe in, it will be clise to straight tnen
The other tip is play with it a little when you take it out of the box to get a feel for centering it, turn it all the way one direction and then all the way the other with your hand, you will feel the center point (and count how many turns to get there) as you reach the center you will feel more resistance and as you move past it less, you want to get as close as possible to the point where it has the highest resistance and that should be dead center. You will not feel it when the wheel is hooked up because it is not that much but turning it by hand you will. Mark that point and when you get it in and your steering wheel centered line the collars/rag joint up while keeping those marks lined up and it will be real close. Like I said then match the tie rods lengths since you are changing them anyway and set toe in and you should be real close to dead center, I only needed a caster adjustment on one wheel in the front, that's how close you can come if you just take the time and get things close to equal and find the mid point.
Thanks for the tips, getting everything lined up properly was a major concern having everything disassembled, but you have given me some great directions! The rest of the parts should all be in by the end of the week, I still have the control arm bushings to remove and press in too so I have some work ahead of me. Bought a 20 ton shop press yesterday to help with installing the blushings and and everything else I always wished I had a press for.
Glad to help thats what this gorum is for, if you have any other question post them or pm me and will help where i can. This years project on mine is vintage sir and dakota digital vhx guages....
Glad to help thats what this gorum is for, if you have any other question post them or pm me and will help where i can. This years project on mine is vintage sir and dakota digital vhx guages....
I put vintage air in my wife's 1970 coupe two years ago. It's a big job but just break it into a bunch of little jobs and it will all come together in the end. Well worth it in the end. Top notch kit except for the ducting to the drivers side vent although they I think might have improved that part of the kit now. Back at ya if you have any questions as long as I can remember the answer, lol. It's the kind of job you are glad is over and proud to be able to say you did it yourself and then have no problem rembering.
They must have fixed the drivers side, solid plastic tube worked great, the center console is where I have the problem right now, need to go in about 1/2 inch further but have been waiting on the Dakota Digital gauges because it will do several things, the most important is fix the gauges and clock and chopped up wiring and not leave all the wiring connections hanging out there where the duct work can snag them and knock them off, eliminate a lot of wires for dash lights, etc and hopefully clean out at least 1/2 inch more space but if not will not be afraid of wiring when I push it in. Doing dash pads also because the drivers side has a crack between the gauges and headlight switch and so it will all be nice and new.
Sounds like a gunshot. You get used to it after 5 or 6 times.
the one attaching my drag link to the center link put up a huge fight. We used the separator and a hammer ultimately to get it to pop.
If you put a little heat into the part with a propane torch (not a cutting torch!) parts will separate much easier. It doesn't take a lot of heat, just enough to expand the part you want to remove ever so slightly.....
If you put a little heat into the part with a propane torch (not a cutting torch!) parts will separate much easier. It doesn't take a lot of heat, just enough to expand the part you want to remove ever so slightly.....
The steering is coming apart easy , somewhat
The Pitman are was a bear to get off the box, I broke a puller. Then used a 3 arm, put the arm under tension and gently heated the rear of the arm with a Ben-z-o-matic and the arm popped. Took very little heat. I was also spraying the box's shaft with freeze off. off.
I do agree with another post, whatever you figure the cost will be , multiply it by 2.5 and you will be close.
But at least the drive train will be 100%.
Currently soaking the steering column shaft with buster to make it easy to move.. hopefully.
Now back to removing 45 years of crud on the frame.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Feb 26, 2015 at 07:49 PM.
Reason: spelling
I just removed the rest of the power steering crap, tie rods and center link. The only thing I'm reusing is the center link and the only thing left to remove is the pitman arm. What a MESS! My car chassis is rust free and dry from the power steering back. From the power steering forward was a mess! Control arms had at least 5lbs of crud on them(not kidding). When I'm done I will be proud to leave it up in the air and park my wife's 71 under it. Unfortunately she already told me hers is next? Lol. I shouldn't complain, she is the best to work with in the garage and it was her idea to get the lift!
I just removed the rest of the power steering crap, tie rods and center link. The only thing I'm reusing is the center link and the only thing left to remove is the pitman arm. What a MESS! My car chassis is rust free and dry from the power steering back. From the power steering forward was a mess! Control arms had at least 5lbs of crud on them(not kidding). When I'm done I will be proud to leave it up in the air and park my wife's 71 under it. Unfortunately she already told me hers is next? Lol. I shouldn't complain, she is the best to work with in the garage and it was her idea to get the lift!
Your car and mine must have been brothers...
The previous owner never cleaned the car, just drove and garaged it.
Had to buy a 3/4" socket set today, only way I could have gotten a 1 5/16 socket for the pitman arm nut. Also bought a three arm puller, won't work, need to get a two arm puller to get the pitman arm off while the box is still on the car. I have the box and rag joint unattached to the car but can't get it out with the p-arm attached to the box because of the side pipe headers. Something is telling me I'm going to have to take the side pipe and header off to do this right. Anyone do this with side pipe header(small block) attached?
I used a propane torch on the pitman arm, a few whacks with a hammer and the two puller (2nd one I bought) finally got the pitman arm off.
I got side pipes too, you don't need to remove them. Just get the pitman arm off and the old box will lift up. It's a tight fit but it works.
I'll take a picture after breakfast of the finished product.
Originally Posted by Greatsteaks
Had to buy a 3/4" socket set today, only way I could have gotten a 1 5/16 socket for the pitman arm nut. Also bought a three arm puller, won't work, need to get a two arm puller to get the pitman arm off while the box is still on the car. I have the box and rag joint unattached to the car but can't get it out with the p-arm attached to the box because of the side pipe headers. Something is telling me I'm going to have to take the side pipe and header off to do this right. Anyone do this with side pipe header(small block) attached?
Had to buy a 3/4" socket set today, only way I could have gotten a 1 5/16 socket for the pitman arm nut. Also bought a three arm puller, won't work, need to get a two arm puller to get the pitman arm off while the box is still on the car. I have the box and rag joint unattached to the car but can't get it out with the p-arm attached to the box because of the side pipe headers. Something is telling me I'm going to have to take the side pipe and header off to do this right. Anyone do this with side pipe header(small block) attached?
If your trying to install the Borgeson from the bottom, the header and sidepipe must come off. I have a six speed as well as sidepipes and a hydroboost. I was scared to go at it from the top! I just finished it up from the bottom and I had tons of room to measure for the column collapse. Only downfall was getting the header back it....you gotta hold your mouth just right and not pick up the hammer! here is a pic of all that room.
I agree with Hofs01, if you're planning on removing the old box and installing the new Borgeson from the bottom up you'll need to pull your header. But I was able to remove the old and install the new from the top down so I didn't have to touch my side pipes. I did however loosen the master cylinder and moved it to the side, but I never disconnected it so it went right back on, no issues with the brakes.
Anyway, here are some pictures I just took. The only thing I still want to do is reuse the metal bracket from the original rag joint on my new hybrid rag joint (I used the original column side with the new box side) I've heard a few complaints on the new jag joint and I think the problem might be the lack of the support bracket the old one had tying the two shoulder bolts together on the back side.
If your trying to install the Borgeson from the bottom, the header and sidepipe must come off. I just finished it up from the bottom and I had tons of room to measure for the column collapse. Only downfall was getting the header back it....you gotta hold your mouth just right and not pick up the hammer!
I'm not trying to remove it from the bottom and really don't want to take off the side pipe and header, it was hard enough to get it in there to begin with and I'm defiantly going to have to dimple them and think that's going to be easier to get an accurate location of the dimple with the header still attached. Should I heat the stainless header tube before popping it with a ballpeen?
I'm getting a p-arm puller this morning. I have the arm and spline soaked I'm penetrating oil, how flammable is that stuff? I plan on putting some pressure on the arm with the puller and if it doesn't budge hit it with a flame, should I have a large damp rag and a fire extinguisher on deck? Also, the nut was real tight to begin with but even before removing it I noticed about 1/4" of space above the arm between the box where I could see spline and figured it was loose to begin with but it obviously is not, I can't imagine that is normal?
What brand of headers do you have? I have Doug's and no dimpling was needed. In fact with the new taller steering box I actually have more room between the box and headers.
Originally Posted by Greatsteaks
I'm not trying to remove it from the bottom and really don't want to take off the side pipe and header, it was hard enough to get it in there to begin with and I'm defiantly going to have to dimple them and think that's going to be easier to get an accurate location of the dimple with the header still attached. Should I heat the stainless header tube before popping it with a ballpeen?
I'm getting a p-arm puller this morning. I have the arm and spline soaked I'm penetrating oil, how flammable is that stuff? I plan on putting some pressure on the arm with the puller and if it doesn't budge hit it with a flame, should I have a large damp rag and a fire extinguisher on deck? Also, the nut was real tight to begin with but even before removing it I noticed about 1/4" of space above the arm between the box where I could see spline and figured it was loose to begin with but it obviously is not, I can't imagine that is normal?
I plan on putting some pressure on the arm with the puller and if it doesn't budge hit it with a flame, should I have a large damp rag and a fire extinguisher on deck? Also, the nut was real tight to begin with but even before removing it I noticed about 1/4" of space above the arm between the box where I could see spline and figured it was loose to begin with but it obviously is not, I can't imagine that is normal?
put some pressure on the arm with the puller and if it doesn't budge hit the pitman arm with a hammer next to the shaft. it may just pop out.
not sure on the flammability, I wouldn't do it in the kitchen!
Sounds like a gunshot. You get used to it after 5 or 6 times. 
here is a pic of all that room.
