Thanks, did not know that.

 

I have OBX, Hooker clones supposed to have the same bends as the hookers too. (Pardon the dust)

 

Well thanks guys! With the right tool, the right hammer�� and the right amount of heat the pitman arm came right off��. Then I unbolted the master cylinder and moved it a few inches toward the fender as suggested(thanks!) I got the box out! Next is to remove and rebuild the power steering pump. Did anyone else reposition the return line nipple? If so, how far did you turn it and what direction, 180 °, 90 ° toward the motor or to the fender?

 

Glad to read you got it off. I left the nipple where it was, it works fine like that. Just get the new lines warm before installing them, it makes them a lot more flexible.

 

I picked up a 1" drive socket collection a few years ago at a garage sale, used a socket adapter to use the 1/2 inch drive. I was lucky enough to have gotten an adapter to up size the 1/2 inch drive on the 1" drive socket.

 

New box arrived today. I did a test fit just to see where I needed to dimple my headers and guess what, it dropped right in, no mods nended! Adjusted th steering shaft length a few times and the new box is installed, its bolted in and attached to the steering wheel but that's it. Suspension needs to go back on before I can hook up the rest of the steering.

 

Great news, sounds like you're chugging along with it. I'm hoping this weekend I'll be able to take the car out and give the new box as well as spreader bar a try.

 

I guess there is a "slight" possibility I might be able to do the same depending on the weather and work. It has been cold and snowing almost every day here. Glad to here the weather might be good enough in NJ, I grew up in Morris county for the first 21 years of my life and my parents still live there. I moved to Denver to get away from the north east weather, lol. Denver actually gets very little snow compared to the rest of Colorado.

 

Where in Morris county? I grew up and still live in Pequannock.

 

Parsippany

 

Very cool

 

This is 1 AWESOME thread

 

So in case anyone is wondering or doing a search:
OBX stainless steel side pipe headers and a Borgeson Box fit a c3 corvette (1971 at least) small block without modifying the headers. I know I tried searching for this answer and could not fine one. I even sent Borgeson photos of my old box and header with less then 1/4" between them and they told me it would not fit without modifying the drivers side header. The new box is taller and there is much more room between them now. I'll post a pic later.

 

Great post, let me add to it.

The Borgeson will fit in a 1980 running the stock engine with no modifications needed to Doug's side pipe headers.

 

I put the Borgeson box in Sunday on my 1971- 350. The brake lines needed to be slightly re-bent, moved. The attachment to the frame was loosened for the brake lines and proportioning block, remounted the block in the stock position, could not use the first mount for the brake line clamp as it was too close to the steering box.
I had to shim the box to line it up with the column. One 3/4 washer under the rear (column mount lined it up perfectly.
The box arrived in full right position.
To line up the drive , I marked the box and rotated it full right , then full left and marked the center (1.5) rotations. Marked the column for top and did the same. I marked the rag joint for top on both the box and column. The steering wheel locked in the center position with the key which made it easy to hold. I took apart the rag joint and assembled the joint with the box in the car, bolts loose. Tightened the box bolts, then the rag joint. P>S> Soaking the column for 3 days helped and it moved fairly easy. I used a 1.5 inch wire wheel with a drill to clean the splines on the steering column, the rag joint went on "easy" and fit great.
A previous poster said the joint failed rather quickly after installation, maybe a misalignment caused it for him. I can see how it could damage the joint. The original position allows the shaft to be longer accepting the slight misalignment.
It looks like it will be close for the clutch linkage, but the motor has to be finished first.

As a final test I turned the wheel. 1.5 right from center and 1.5 left from center. hopefully the rest will line up.

 

I man, you cheated, you took the body off, lol.
Mine went in last week and I finished up installing the suspension and tie rods and VBP sleeves. Drives nice around the block. Goes in tomorrow for a full alignment, can't wait!

 

The lower column mount plate has very large holes, just loosen the nuts inside the car where it meets the firewall and slide it around for alignment, then tighten the nuts. Should not require shimming the box from the frame.

 

All finished, had a 4 wheel alignment today. What a difference! If I ever buy an old car again the suspension will be the first thing I make sure is solid, not the most sexy improvement to the eyes but definitely the most felt in the seat, feels like I have 50 more horse power! Accelerates better and stops better too.
Alignment shop got 3.5 degrees of caster and 1/16 tow in. If anyone in the Denver area needs there corvette aligned by a shop that knows what they are doing, "Elroys alignment and brakes" is the place to go! Old school shop with modern equipment. Family owned 3 generation shop with the dad and two sons in the shop daily.

 

Will try loosing the floor mount bolts, there does not look like a lot of space. Will let you know. The motor will be at least 2 weeks, as I'm going with a roller setup. So there is time to play.

One thing that did make a difference was using a 2" wire wheel in my drill on the column splines, (to clean them) the rag joint was tight but "slid" on with minimum force.
thanks

 

Well, this is an interesting thread. But, having read what’s required I'm happy to admit that the fitting of a Borgeson system is not a job I’m up to!

So, way back near the beginning of the thread someone mentioned sticking with a rebuilt PSCV from “Gary R”. So, who is Gary R, please?