Ahhhhhhhhh.....got it now.
Thanks

 

im wondering if we got an answer to this... Im almost done with my install... the steering wheel ended up a little ways off.. my plan was to pull the hub and move the wheel when im done...

 

Re-indexing the wheel or hub will cause the signal cancelling cam to be offset. You will have to turn the wheel farther one way to get it to cancel. It's best to make sure the box is centered and put the upper hub of the rag joint on with the steering wheel centered. If it's still not close enough you can adjust the tie rods to finish centering it.

 

This is what I did. The box and wheel were dead straight when I set it up. Took it out of the garage and drove it down the road and it re-centered itself with the wheel about 20-30 off. The geometry of the drag link is different vs the PS valve and will shift the center link in one direction. You then adjust the tie rods to correct this (in my case, had an alignment shop do that).

 

How much will they be able to move the wheel with the tie rods? It ended up about 1/4 turn off...

 

Mine ended up about that much off (want to say 70* right of center).

Image attached.

The alignment shop got it perfect.

 

mine was off just about that much.... its going in for an alignment.... as far as the install goes..... WOW!!! its a whole new car... it drives like brand new... great choice going this way...

 

any more coupon codes out there?

 

I haven't seen any coupons lately.

But, the absolutely best deal I find is from these guys:

Mudflaps.com

I have bought two Borgeson kits for Corvettes from them.

They drop ship to Borgeson direct, and it takes about 3-4 weeks to get your kit, but it is only 602.00 for the complete kit minus the power steering pump.

This is primarily a 4 wheel truck outfit, but they have no issue with ordering you Borgeson kit for your vette.

 

so when i order from them do i mention it is for a c3 or do i just order it?

 

You have to determine which kit and parts you need.

I have the pump, so the 602 kit is good for me.

http://mudflaps.com/search.html?q=co...+box&go=Search

 

ordered he kit I'm excited

 

Got mine from here also

 

The studs actually go into the reservoir, so if they are not tightened properly, they can leak (not the best design, but it works). I took out my factory pump and reservior and powder coated it. I then reassebled and used ultra black RTV on those bolts. Mine has yet to leak.

I didn't have a problem with the pully alignment, but I suppose a washer between the engine and the bracket would do the job.

 

This swap isnt missery unless ur bigblock powered with big tube headers. I had to relieve my frame and stil was left with only a 1/4" of clearance.

 

[QUOTE=Mr.Green;1583084456]I finally decided to take the plunge and go with the Borgeson power steering box. I had finally had enough with that leaky control valve.

-Used a ball joint separator to remove the PSCV. Be careful, the valve will come off with some force behind it!



I just saw this thread, thanks Mr. Green, good timing for me, and others too as it looks like a bunch of us are currently doing this mod. Just a note to add...when separating tapered pins with the lever type tool, if you just back the nut off a small amount instead of removing it the joint will still separate and the nut will keep the parts from flying apart. The noise it makes still makes me jump even though I am expecting it.

 

Sounds like a gunshot. You get used to it after 5 or 6 times.

the one attaching my drag link to the center link put up a huge fight. We used the separator and a hammer ultimately to get it to pop.

 

I am in the process of rebuilding my entire front end bushings to borgenson box. I currently have the Control arms off the car being media blasted. I was going to all the bushings new springs and ball joints, do a dyi alignment and take it for a short ride to get a feel for the difference they make. Then I was going to install new VBP tie rod ends and sleeves and drive it to feel that difference. Then install the new borgenson box and drive it and finally put Bilstien HD shocks on. Should I just pull everything off and install everything at once? How much easier will the box swap and install be with the control arms and springs off the car(all work will be done with the luxury of a lift).

 

What you are doing is almost 100% identical to what I did, mine is a 72 with factory power steering.
I changed the a-arms because they were scraped up pretty bad so just got replacement ones with bushings, new ball joints, etc. Added Bilstien HD shocks. I put in new VBP coils (550's I think would have to look it up) and even put a new drag link although that was just since every thing else is new why not. Had to collapse the steering shaft some but with the old box out that was not to hard but I did not remove the steering col from the car. While I had the drag link out I replaced the steering box, made a lot more room but can be done with it in the car also.I do not have headers so that was also a little help space wise. My Power steering pump leaked so got a rebuilt one while I had it that far. There are two brass restrictors that come with it make sure you put them in. I put all the original shims in place figuring they would be close enough and checked the toe in with a tape measure and took it for alignment, was so close only the left front was off a little bit. One word of caution when the alignment person looks they will not see all the old power steering stuff and assume it is manual steering, which has different settings, I pointed out the new box and he said good thing he thought it looked like manual, I used the VBP specs for alignment. World of difference, more responsive nice easy steering when you need it, less cranking the wheel to make a turn and looks factory.

 

Thanks, I have decided to rip everything out and start at the box and work forward. I can see that with the A arms, springs and old power steering hoses and components removed it will make things go in much easier especially if I have to dimple my SS side pipe headers.