Borgeson Install
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 22
From: Oxford CT
Thanks. I was also thinking since I am putting the rebuilt pump in I would hook the hoses up there first and maybe try to start them in the box as well before I mount the pump. Alternator is off and exhaust pipes are off and thinking of removing the exhaust manifold if it would help. (Automatic so not clutch linkage to worry with) Any thoughts on all that?
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 159
Likes: 3
From: Swansea Illinois
Last edited by irelandr; Apr 7, 2014 at 08:58 PM. Reason: spelling
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 526
Likes: 1
From: Millington TN
I just got mine in the mail and have a few questions before I tear into this. I want to make sure there are no clearance issues with either the box or the rag joint. I have a small block with the Hooker SuperComp side mount headers. I saw someone HAD to get the U-joint because the rag wouldn't fit. Can anyone confirm if this fits with my setup and will I need a U-joint? I want to make sure I have all the parts I need before I start, it takes too long for stuff to get shipped here to Italy. Thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 956
Likes: 86
From: McDonough Georgia
I just got mine in the mail and have a few questions before I tear into this. I want to make sure there are no clearance issues with either the box or the rag joint. I have a small block with the Hooker SuperComp side mount headers. I saw someone HAD to get the U-joint because the rag wouldn't fit. Can anyone confirm if this fits with my setup and will I need a U-joint? I want to make sure I have all the parts I need before I start, it takes too long for stuff to get shipped here to Italy. Thanks!
Once I got the column collapsed, and the measurement was really close, I took the rag joint apart.
It is pretty easy to mount the two halves of the rag joint to the column and the box. Then I loosely mounted the box in place, and bolted the rag joint back together.
Make sure you have it aligned pretty close before trying to bolt the two halves back together.
I didn't worry at all about the steering column simply because I took off the steering wheel and realigned it when the job was over.
I had to use the little adaptors on the box for the lines. Also, be prepared to really tighten down on those hoses, both on the steering pump and the box. I found that mine were totally leak free when the big vein in my neck stood up. Vein torque wrench
Oh yeah, one final tip. The hose clamp that comes with the kit for attaching to the power steering pump is too small. You will need a slightly larger one. Make sure you have it when you start otherwise you'll be hunting for one or wasting a lot time trying to get the small one to fit.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 45
From: Cameron Park CA
SBC. I too have the Hooker Super Comps, under car type. I have about 0.5" of clearance between the #7 pipe and the rag joint. If the side exit Hookers are radically different in that area, you need to do more research.
Hope this helps
Pete
Hope this helps
Pete
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 22
From: Oxford CT
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,445
Likes: 353
From: Athens GA
St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Scanned most of the 11 pages but could not find any reference to hydroboost setup being used with the borgenson system.
Anyone doing this?
Any additional problems/challenges with running both?
Great thread btw. Nice work by the OP.
Thanks
Bman
Anyone doing this?
Any additional problems/challenges with running both?
Great thread btw. Nice work by the OP.
Thanks
Bman
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
I've got both.
I have a '74 with a Hydroboost and a Borgeson box, and it works fine. I also have a Holden VY master cylinder with integral proportioning valve. All I needed was a 6mm spacer between the HB and the MC so as the rod had about a millimetre of slack before engagement. The aluminum MC weighs 1.1 kg, the stock cast iron MC weighs 3.7 and the distribution block on the chassis (which I removed) was about half a kg. All up I've saved over 3 kg and have a better functioning brake system.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,445
Likes: 353
From: Athens GA
St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Are you saying it would be easier with hydroboost?
Txs
Bman,
I have a '74 with a Hydroboost and a Borgeson box, and it works fine. I also have a Holden VY master cylinder with integral proportioning valve. All I needed was a 6mm spacer between the HB and the MC so as the rod had about a millimetre of slack before engagement. The aluminum MC weighs 1.1 kg, the stock cast iron MC weighs 3.7 and the distribution block on the chassis (which I removed) was about half a kg. All up I've saved over 3 kg and have a better functioning brake system.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
I have a '74 with a Hydroboost and a Borgeson box, and it works fine. I also have a Holden VY master cylinder with integral proportioning valve. All I needed was a 6mm spacer between the HB and the MC so as the rod had about a millimetre of slack before engagement. The aluminum MC weighs 1.1 kg, the stock cast iron MC weighs 3.7 and the distribution block on the chassis (which I removed) was about half a kg. All up I've saved over 3 kg and have a better functioning brake system.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Bman
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
Postulating. Getting at the lines on the box is somewhat of a pain in the *** with the vacuum brake booster in the way. The hydroboost system would definitely free up some room so you could see at it with more angles and get your arm in there easier, etc. You have more lines to deal with, but the ones on the booster should be trivial to install compared to the ones on the box.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,094
Likes: 990
From: Sierra Foothills CA
If you look at post #205 above, in the photos you can see where the lines connect to the top of the Borg box. You can also see the yellow plastic plugs that were in those holes before the lines were connected. The brass pieces go into the box where the hose fittings thread into it. The smaller part of the brass piece goes in first and the larger part seals against the hose fitting- you can see how the shape matches the flare of the hose fitting. I used the end of a ratchet extension to gently tap the brass piece into place. Then I test fitted the hose fittings to seat them.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 334
Likes: 4
From: Blairsville GA
Borgeson power steering pump
Hello, my car is a 1966 roadster was non-power steering, 327/300HP. I'm in the process of installing the pump and brackets. My instructions were lost @ my engine builders garage. My body is off the car so this makes things a little easier. I have two questions.
1. why are my studs on the pump leaking. Do the stud nuts go between the bracket with additional nuts and washers on the outside of the mounting bracket. This is a Borgeson pump.
2. I bought my pulleys from Vintage air. The pump pulley is on number 3 pulley farthest from engine. The pump pulley does not line up perfectly with the # 3 crank pulley. It looks like the the miss-alignment is less than an 1/8" can I somehow shim the pump to correct this. I do have the pulley GM numbers if that will help..
Thank you,
Al
1. why are my studs on the pump leaking. Do the stud nuts go between the bracket with additional nuts and washers on the outside of the mounting bracket. This is a Borgeson pump.
2. I bought my pulleys from Vintage air. The pump pulley is on number 3 pulley farthest from engine. The pump pulley does not line up perfectly with the # 3 crank pulley. It looks like the the miss-alignment is less than an 1/8" can I somehow shim the pump to correct this. I do have the pulley GM numbers if that will help..
Thank you,
Al