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For those of you that have had interference issues with the drivers side tie rod? Is there a difference between the PS pitman arm and the Standard pitman arm?
Hitch
Yes, there is a difference, but you won't have a problem if you use the PS pitman arm with the PS relay rod and the adapter end (or a modified (gutted) PS control valve); or if you use a manual pitman arm with a manual relay rod.
I had no problems with the first approach and a modified (gutted) PS control valve.
The reason I ask is that the inboard driverS side tie rod is hitting the lower control arm with everything installed now.. I have read that others have had this same problem but I have not been able to determine a resolution.
The GM setup properly done is fine.... GM engineers knew what they were doing.
I agree that the GM engineers knew and know how to make steering gears. Among some, there may be an opinion that the Jeep box is an inferior non-GM product. I don't have an authoritative statement from an expert like former GM engineer Jim Shea but I think that the Saginaw Steering Gear Division of GM designed and build the Jeep box; even though it was not designed for and installed on a GM vehicle. When I worked at Saginaw Steering Gear in the 60's I assembled some components that went on non-GM cars. This reminds me of the debate about not using radial tires on pre-1970 C3's because GM engineers designed the suspension to be used exclusively with bias-belted tires. Much to my satisfaction, in 1972 I put TA-Radials on my 1970 and it didn't become a death trap. I'll probably put a Jeep box on because I like wrenching, improving and eliminating leaks.
For those of you that have had interference issues with the drivers side tie rod? Is there a difference between the PS pitman arm and the Standard pitman arm?
Hitch
I used the pitman arm from a chevelle and have no clearance issues.
I think I fixed my clearance issue. I didn't have the grease fittings bottomed out and I am using zerk covers that have a little nib on them. I cut the nib off and bottomed out the fitting on the tie rod and it seems to be ok now. I'm going to grind down the control arm a little bit anyways, just in case.
i'm replacing my stock p/s box with a borg 12;7'1 which is longer my question is will the column collapse enough to allow for the difference in length and if so how do you collapse it safely without screwing thing's up.
i'm replacing my stock p/s box with a borg 12;7'1 which is longer my question is will the column collapse enough to allow for the difference in length and if so how do you collapse it safely without screwing thing's up.
cccc2592,
You need to collapse the shaft about 2.5". First though, you need to measure the distance between the end of the shaft and the input shaft of the factory box that is INSIDE the factory rag joint. What I recommend is that you then put some masking tape around the SHAFT that sticks out from the column lower bearing about 2.5 to 3" from the bearing, then place a piece of brass, aluminum or wood against the splined shaft and hit it with a big hammer.
This should shear the two plastic pins and allow the shaft to collapse. When the tape is about half an inch away from the bearing, test fit the box and check the distance between the two shafts. Adjust if necessary. When the gap is about the same as the factory gap, you can then install the Borgeson rag joint and then the box.
So yes, the SHAFT, not column, will collapse far enough and if you do it the way I described, you won't stuff things up.
Good luck.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Last edited by aussiejohn; Apr 1, 2013 at 07:06 PM.
Reason: wrong word used
I just did mine and the install was pretty trouble free but I do have some questions. First Can someone post or send me photos of how you routed your hoses? I routed mine over the top of the gear going to the front but they are really close to the headers. Second I havent drove it very much yet . . just did a new carb install also so Im tuning that. But so far I have found the steering to feel more like manual . . its really hard to turn. Whats up are any of you guys experiencing this? My pump was a new rebuild a couple years ago and worked fine on the old stock setup.
Swapped in a Borgeson box in 2009.Install went smooth with no issues and box has performed flawless.Steering has great response and happy to report no leaks.Vette is a 76 which had factory power steering.Didn't care for the supplied rag joint,used a SS u-joint instead. No more leaky hoses or control valve to deal with.Contact Borgeson for any problems,they should have the solution for you.
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With regards to the fact that it turns really hard, it may be that you need to go back and make certain that you got all of the air out of the system. I know that with the tires on the ground mine felt like manual steering too until the system was bleed properly. Once you get it straightened out you are going to love it. If this does not help, like previously suggested, call Borgeson. They were very helpful when I had questions with mine.
I am so glad to have found this thread. This is definitely in my future. I am just going to run manual for a while until I find the best deal on a Borg.
No doubt in my mind. The stock "bolt on" addition power steering components just aren't that good.
I bought a rebuild kit for a quite a bit of money from a reputable dealer, and the Control Valve is just no good. I noticed when I took it apart to replace the seals the first time that the parts inside had rusty spots on them. I cleaned them all up, but they are probably hopelessly pitted.
Still I tried again, and was rewarded with spewing hot power steering fluid in the face.
BTW Great write up Mr Green. I am marking this one.
in need of a few good tips on how to get the steering column to collaspes. I have polished the shaft, oiled it, wood on the end, wacked on it, not much room for wacking. waited went back at it. finally finished up the weeds with the wacker now I thought I was experienced at wacking, I tried again on the column. it's just as long and not getting any shorter. I'll try it again in the morning with all your helpful hints. thanks in advance. Terry
So based on the information supplied in this thread, I do believe that installing a Borgeson kit with a small block with hedders should not be a problem?
I have Hedman 68300 hedders that are ceramic coated and would like to be as sure as possible about the Borgeson fitment before I take the plunge and purchase the kit.
I would like to take advantage of the good pricing as per the other thread that is currently listed.
in need of a few good tips on how to get the steering column to collaspes. I have polished the shaft, oiled it, wood on the end, wacked on it, not much room for wacking. waited went back at it. finally finished up the weeds with the wacker now I thought I was experienced at wacking, I tried again on the column. it's just as long and not getting any shorter. I'll try it again in the morning with all your helpful hints. thanks in advance. Terry
I also would like to hear some more on this. I have everything out and ready to install.
I have not yet begun to pound on the column, but was considering cutting it. That would also maintain the integrity of the collapsing column wouldn't it?
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