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Set tps to 5.2 ohm still having same problem do i have to try and drive it around for it to reset will idle smooth but once goes into gear with surge sputter and die out
Set tps to 5.2 ohm still having same problem do i have to try and drive it around for it to reset will idle smooth but once goes into gear with surge sputter and die out
not ohms but volts .52 VOLTS as i mentioned you need the manual and scanner you have issues that the scanner will help you on and without it you are just doing whatever you can to hopefully find the problem its your time do as you want
I know dub due to to i love in hawaii will take time till it gets here goin to try order everything tonight manual and scanner havent found a descent ob1 but i reset the tps
http://www.winaldl.joby.se/ if you get the cable you can get this for free. the scale that you are using is not what you need.the volt scale is very low. you will need a meter that will go to 2vdc.
I would check the pawn shops for old scanners. a lot of the ob2 readers will also read obd1 but you want to make sure that it can read both.The old red bricks from snapon can read both.
I would check the pawn shops for old scanners. a lot of the ob2 readers will also read obd1 but you want to make sure that it can read both.The old red bricks from snapon can read both.
I dont know if it will do OBD1 but the ELM327 adapters work great with the free "torque" app software and an android phone. it allows you to see all computer information in real time and check and clear codes... I even used it with my tablet as a virtual digital gauge readout to provide sensor and engine info.
They were like $12 and come in usb,wifi and bluetooth designs as well as possibly rj45 network interface if I remember right.. I have a much more expensive scanner but prefer this device. its pretty sickening actually because I wasted all that money on a scanner and for about $9 now this ELM adapter does more.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Aug 1, 2016 at 09:57 AM.
And I will write it again...I feel you are 'chasing your tail'.
You obviously can do what you want...I just HATE seeing you try stuff and not get anywhere do to needing the scanner and GM manual....but I would wait till I got what I needed. You can still check your fuel pressure...but that will take a special line configuration and gauge to replace the steel fuel line joining the two throttle bodies for this test. And if you still have an injector leaking as you mentioned before.,.I would get that fixed...THAT will make HUGE difference in getting this engine to run smoothly.
I fixed the leak i made video to tru and show real time i was reading the code reader manual says it can do live data so i will try and get that to work and i will also try and get the tps to .52 v which i can do on 12v setting right
I fixed the leak i made video to tru and show real time i was reading the code reader manual says it can do live data so i will try and get that to work and i will also try and get the tps to .52 v which i can do on 12v setting right
YES...you use the 12 volt DC reading and set it to the 2 volt DC scale as it had been previously mentioned to you by 'terry82' in POST # 124.
your meter will not read it .you have to have one that will read that low .you are on 20 you need to be on 2.or you need a meter that pics the scale automatically.
Will it work if i ty and adjust it on 1.5 v also im goin to make a inline fuel pressure gauge between the 2 tb does anyone know off hand what size the holes are
post number61 buccaneer ,send a pm he will know the size of the tubing. you have to have the right scale to set the tps correctly.look for a different volt meter
reader that has 2v dc. show us more vids .it does help us stay on the same page,
Ok will do im working on getting the manual its on its way should be 1-2wks also working on getting the live data soon to a freind of mine will try and get one from his work
I can say this. When removing the fuel line that joins the two throttle bodies...BE CAREFUL.....the fuel line fitting can be really hard to break free...and at ALL COST...make sure you use a FLARE WRENCH for this. Using an open ended wrench can round off the head of the flare nut and screw it all up. ALSO...the fitting that these fuel lines go into should ALSO be held when trying to get the fuel lines off them.
I have modified wrenches that allow me to get in there and hold the large fitting on the throttle body so I can break the fuel lines loose..and sometimes I swear I feel I am going to chip my teeth when trying to get them to break loose.
AND...a few few times...I have to remove BOTH throttle bodies together so I could get that fuel line off. SO...yes...that can happen.