I am 3/4 love them, Fram has the air hog, but I own the k and n. I had a carb fire on a rod Chester two jet cab, the float stuck and it back fired it was like a flame thrower out the passengers side, flame front that caught the ground on fire, used a blanket to put the fire on the carb out and a garden hose to put out the surrounding ground, both a tuning issue with the dwell and trash in the needle and seat. But we had the filter off and we're dicking with the carb and timing.

 

Check out R2C filters

 

I just started reading this today and it is laughable how many dreamers think that this little cam and heads is going to make 400+ HP. In 2001 the first C-5 Z-06 (ls6) produced 385 hp in wasn't till 2004 that it made 405hp C-6's originally came with 405 hp.

They had more compression, vastly bigger heads, lot bigger valves, lot bigger cam, 7000 rpm red line, and a fairly well tunned intake/injection system. So how could anyone think that you have a power house 400+ HP 350 ci motor?

I spent many years driving around road racing tracks as a driving instructor and when people would show up with their brand new Z-06. I WAS DISAPPOINTED! I don't like driving around in cars that you have to have your foot on the floor and there ain't no more all the time unless your are on the brakes.

I went from hot rodding my 350 l-82 to 355, 383, 396,427, 434 ci I've driven a 509 pro street 8 stack injected camaro that I built.

That is why I don't recommend these little 218 degree roller cams to anybody. I also don't build 383's when you can build a 396 for the same money. CI = foot pounds of TQ

 

It think that is gross versus net HP.

 

It should be a good strong street motor

"screaming"....well probably posted by those that have never had anything really powerful before. That word can be interpreted a bunch of ways


To make a "screaming" 350 you probably wouldnt want to deal with the lack of manners on the st. A bigger stroke/motor is usually what makes the difference most hope for when doing H/C on a 350. Gave up on those yrs ago wouldnt even go 383 again (although its night/day over the 350)
Its never enough.

 

I don't want to directly be disrespectful, but you, Gkull, over the five years I have been on this forum has ALWAYS posted responses that defines performance by the standards of a race car, and unable to grasp a concept of power unless its massive heads, massive cams, and massive cubes. By your definition, AFR has no reason to produce a 180 cc heads, despite the great popularity of them and the many recommendations and reviews these heads have for a great street motor. Nor does any cam company including Comp Cams have any reason to produce anything but massive cams, and these HR270 roller cams have no purpose.....by the way, you do know they actually make even smaller cams, but I guess nobody buys them and they do this just to have more items in their catalog of cams.

Story after story, book after book, thread after thread, Vizard and on, I have read that this type of thinking only produces an engine that is worthless for the average street car that can be responsibly and legally driven on the street.....and only good for a race track. I don't want a race car. I want an engine that I can drive on the street, that is fun to drive on the streets. My driving speeds are going to be 0 to 55 mph 90% of the time...... My car will never see 100 mph with me driving it. I put too much blood, sweat, money and energy into this car to die in a horrific crash, and I certainly don't want to take out anyone else doing it. I don't think I have a right to do that on our streets.

What I can tell you is that if I stay in first gear to 5000 RPM, like some have suggested, I bet I will be at 40 mph before shifting to second gear...so second takes me the rest of the way to the speed I am going.....so not sure why I would do that? Its starts to make no sense....so why would I need MORE??? What the hell would I need a 509 cubic inch motor? Its nonsense, and sounds like chest pounding American white boy small ***** ego issues kicking in.

Whether or not this engine can produce 400 HP, or 300 HP, it is still a vast improvement over the 195 HP it came with. It is built with solid high quality parts. The dyno will tell the story, so I will get back with you all, and we shall see what it does. I hope it shows 400 HP just to make a point, but it is what it is. Maybe it will be 225 HP based on your post?

 

With a manual trany I'm betting 290 rear wheel hp.

 

Hey George
LOL you are still alive and kicking

G

 

break in------really. the people you listed sound really pro.and they probably miked everything and set up all clearances by the book. think about it,engine is set up perfect and and from the minute it is started up will start its journey to wear out. nail it,it's ready to go now.

 

I seriously want to hear what happens when you go and step on it. I was surprised to see a full day go by and still no 5,000 RPM test...


Adam

 

Really george wasn't being mean, that's his nice side and he shots it straight, which sometimes comes off mean, he's a wealth of knowledge and a real good dude.

 

I have a similar engine, same cam w/1.6 RRs, TFS heads, 2.0 RH,
650 Demon.
I'm told the AFR are 30 rwhp better than my TFS.
My 2.0 RH ex suck, I have the 2.5 ready to put on.
Headers are supposed to be 25 hp better than RH?

My engine did 280 rwhp and 315 rwtq.
It pulls very hard from 3K where it makes 300 tq.
I'm thinking 20 hp/tq for the 2.5 RH?
Another 20 hp for headers?

That adds up to 320 rwhp and I'm guessing 340 rwtq.
That is a bit short of 400.
I would really like to make a 12 sec and 20 mpg w/carb and 4 speed.

If you want to go fast, George knows what it takes.

JMHO

R

 

What does yours turn mph/et?

 

Get it to about 30 or so stomp that thing til it kicks down into first and hold it there it will feel much different

 

No track time, it does get great mpg at lower speed.
I have 3:55 w/M21
First is way too high, I need a different trans.

 

iwasmenowhesgone,

I really feel a bit simpatico with you,

Sometime people are a wealth of knowledge yet come off about as smooth as shark skin on 80 grit and not care how they are taken or come off so that makes it hard for me to add them to my "good dudes" list, my wife keeps telling me to just smile and nod my head at those types.

I call it "kid racer" the cats who want to built an engine for a car that is only going to see legal street cruiser use and build that engine like a full tilt race engine, I see most AC Cobra replica builders do this.
I mentioned it in another thread, the L-88 big block, tall HP wow how cool that would be in my 69 to rumble into the cruise, but ask anyone who has driven a real L-88 on the street and if honest they will tell you for a street engine they suck....why? it's a race engine.
However, I fully respect the fellow who feel that type build is what they need.

I look at your build and see more what others wanted than what it really seems like you wanted, I get the gist you wanted a street engine with far more low end torque and didn't care so much about having to wind it up to get any power from it....so no you do not need more but I am interested in how it turns out for you, stop worrying about tearing it up and just get on it, let it all come together and see if you like it for what it is...

 

My 350 w/same cam but not headers starts pulling about 2200. At 2800 there is a sweet spot, instant TQ to move.
Peak TQ is 4K, the RHs choke the engine above 5K.
My 218-224 should pull to 5500 or so w/headers?

I will dyno when the 2.5 RHs go on!

R

 

If you want a 218 cam that is great. I was pointing out the dreamers calling it 400+ HP. It is not that easy to achieve referencing the Z-06 Vettes.

I do consider all of my vette motors to be very streetable! I drove down 600 miles on Sat for Paul's annual vette get together and I drove back home on Sunday on a longer route. My one owner vette has over 170,000 miles on it. There were years that I put more than 10K miles and some of the motors exceed 21 mpg highway

 

We have a crate circle track series here in KY/TN/VA/NC. The Charger series engine is as follows:

650 DP Carb
Performer rpm intake
Stock OEM late model GM 350 Heads with stock valve size (Cast Iron) No Port work.
Stock 1.260" OD Valve spring
Stock OEM 1.5 Ratio Rockers
Hyd roller camshaft .460/470 210/215 110 LSA
Cast Flat top piston 4 valve reliefs.
.020" Shim Head gasket
5.7" OEM Stock rods with ARP bolts
Stock OEM Cast Crank

I have supplied parts for over 60 of these. They make between 360/370HP and 380/390#ft with basically OEM parts and up graded camshaft. The OP's build is very capable of making 400HP base on the parts he has.

 

I think clarification needs made on the horsepower issue. There is engine HP on an engine dyno with no accessories......and then there is chassis dyno for rear wheel horsepower...correct?

1977 Corvette L48 specifications show the engine to be 180 HP....so is that engine or rear wheel horsepower? I believe whatever it is, it includes all accessories i.e. smog pump, alternator, etc. This is one reason why early C3 Corvettes appear to have higher HP ratings than later model C3 Corvettes because the factory showed early numbers WITHOUT any accessories, and then at some point, like in 73 or 74 the numbers included all accessies belted up. Yes, I know, late model smog equipped cars with catalytic converters do have lower HP numbers, but not the dramatic difference it appears to be due to the above stated. (Reference Tom Falconer Original Corvette book).

Now, if people are going to state HP values, please clarify if we are talking engine HP or chassis rear wheel HP.... I would think it makes a difference. Its important that we are comparing apples with apples, and not oranges.

My naïve viewpoint is that when I / we are talking 400 HP, we are talking engine HP, not rear wheel. If I am correct and we are comparing apples with applies, my engine at 350 - 400 HP, original L48 at 180....I would think I should feel twice as much HP. But, I don't.....! And that's what started this thread.

Of course, let me get the car out there and get it tached up like you are all suggesting. Got to fix my transmission aft seal leak first.