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I also have a question about the nose support.
Where does the nose need to be supported at?
Does the radiator housing need to be left on for support?
I would like to do some nose body work while it is on a dolly
but worry about flexing and cracking
I like the idea of painting on a dolly as pictured above
Will that style dolly support the body enough to do bodywork
and paint without causing flexing and stress cracks?
I also have a question about the nose support.
Where does the nose need to be supported at?
Does the radiator housing need to be left on for support?
I would like to do some nose body work while it is on a dolly
but worry about flexing and cracking
I like the idea of painting on a dolly as pictured above
Will that style dolly support the body enough to do bodywork
and paint without causing flexing and stress cracks?
Thanks
Glenn in San Diego
Hi Glenn, the core support (radiator housing) MUST stay on. You would be surprised at how flexible the front clip is, but still needs to be supported. I have seen many cars on dollies have work done as well as paint. Your car, your choice.
RVZIO
Hi Glenn,
"I like the idea of painting on a dolly as pictured above
Will that style dolly support the body enough to do bodywork
and paint without causing flexing and stress cracks?"
I'm not sure which of the dollys you're referring to.
The fellow who painted my car had me do the preliminary body work with the body on the low dolly.
But, he wanted the body to be back on the restored chassis when he did the fitting and 'adjustment' to the doors and hood; and the final paint prep.
Regards.
Alan
Hi Glenn,
The dimensions for the uprights that are on the plan I drew locate the center of each upright in the center of the body mount hole.
I fastened the body at just 4 of the 8 uprights. I pre-drilled a hole for a lag bolt at each location since driving a lag built into the end of a piece of framing lumber usually end in a big split.
With the 4 bolts in place I didn't ever get the feeling that the body was moving around on the dolly. (A 750 pound (+-) body doesn't move on it's own very much.)
Regards,
Alan
As I've often posted about the dolly… it easy to build for someone without 'metal' skills. But, it has it's limitations, so anyone who uses it might want to modify it a bit as they see fit.
I have no way to build hoists in my garage so I'm wondering how to lift the body off the frame to get it on a dolly. 6 guys to lift it from the frame and onto a dolly? I'm new at restoring my 74 and cars for that matter. At first I didn't want to go through the hassle of an off the frame restoration but now that I've looked underneath the car, I think it's the best thing to do.
YES you can do it this way but you better subscribe a local high school football team members to help...Because using ONLY 6 people is a great risk. ESPECIALLY when you go to set the body back on the frame.
Remove as much as you can to lighten the load.
This is why I am saying to get the local young guys to help you and you can treat them to something that they may like a...like eating 'all you can eat ribs' or whatever.
I have done it that way a LONG time ago but I had 10 guys...a few were 'back-up' when a guy was straining to get it high enough and hold it, etc.
Originally Posted by Buccaneer
. I want to change out my body mounts which is the only thing left to do really on mine. Trying to figure out which is the best way with the least amount of trouble. Read a lot of posts from others, but not too keen on some of the ways to accomplish the task. I'm in no hurry and may be a winter project since the heat here in AZ is starting to go up. Thanks again.
IF all you are wanting to do is just replace the spacers and body mount cushions, etc. That is not that hard to do and the entire body does not need to come off the frame.
BUT...if you are needing to replace the gussets at the number 4 body mount area...that is where that can be a bit tricky due to needing to get it up enough for you to work around.
I'm enjoying the input regarding the ideas shared here. I'm all in on obtaining this gantry crane, solid product and will come quite handy I believe. While I do have a body dolly I'm still on the fence for raising the body to roll over the frame, but I'm close to figuring it out.
I was looking at one of these over the weekend at Harbor Freight for $799.00. I figure I can use it, then sell it after my project is completed. It will fit under my 8 ft tall garage ceiling
I was looking at one of these over the weekend at Harbor Freight for $799.00. I figure I can use it, then sell it after my project is completed. It will fit under my 8 ft tall garage ceiling
I looked at it up close and it seems built well enough. Look out for the 20% discount coupon, lowers it to $639.00
Height wise check out the online manual you may have to remove the wheels to make it work at 96" not sure.
Measure twice, cut once. Right ?
The HF gantry is very well build. You need to get chain fall and a beam trolley....the 1T HF trolley is fine. I'm using a 1T Milwaukee chain fall that I had. I was not a fan of the supplied hardware, so I replaced all the hardware with Grade 8. I'm sure the supplied Made in China nuts and bolts are fine, but I'm a little OCD. If you decided to use the supplied hardware, buy a large box of 1/2" flat washers, as they don't supply enough. My garage is 9'6" and at the lowest setting, it will just clear the garage door track......which I believe is around 8'.
NOT meaning to POSSIBLY be the bearer of bad news or information....BUT...
One needs to take into account on how far up the car MUST go to get the frame out...and then...looking at the amount of distance that the chain fall taking up...and YET the straps are not even installed and they eyelet for them is not right on top of the T-tops because it can not due to the angles ...which will also cause for lift height issue....and then one would have to take into account on how far up will the hook actually go towards the chain fall...which is another factor. I have a chain fall much like that and the hook does not go up all the way...there is still quite a bit if chain left and the hook is a fair distance away from the bottom edge of the chain fall itself.
One may find that it may come down to the wheels may need to be removed to lower the body as far as possible...and have it setting on whatever they figure out will work for them....even if it is ground and then using the crane to pick it back up when the body is out of the way.
NOT meaning to POSSIBLY be the bearer of bad news or information....BUT...
One needs to take into account on how far up the car MUST go to get the frame out...and then...looking at the amount of distance that the chain fall taking up...and YET the straps are not even installed and they eyelet for them is not right on top of the T-tops because it can not due to the angles ...which will also cause for lift height issue....and then one would have to take into account on how far up will the hook actually go towards the chain fall...which is another factor. I have a chain fall much like that and the hook does not go up all the way...there is still quite a bit if chain left and the hook is a fair distance away from the bottom edge of the chain fall itself.
One may find that it may come down to the wheels may need to be removed to lower the body as far as possible...and have it setting on whatever they figure out will work for them....even if it is ground and then using the crane to pick it back up when the body is out of the way.
DUB
Hi DUB, Thanks for responding. I get what you are saying.
For me I'll be removing the body outside of my garage which will allow me to raise the Gantry Crane I Beam quite a bit a 148" inches under the beam clearance, more than the 8' feet. I've also considered using 2 chain hoist one on each side of the body with a appropriate strapping (V'd) down to the lift point. As far as lift height minimum to raise the body over the engine I believe I need to bring it up roughly 40"-44" inches maybe.
I personally would love to have a 2-4 post lift but alas it is not to be......yet.
If you have anything else to mention please do. I'm learning as I go and I'm open to any information I can gather.
Best,
DUB, per my measurements, I should be okay. I already removed the gas tank and I'm removing the engine and trans before I lift the body. In addition, I'm having the standard vendor lifting straps shortened. The gantry is at its lowest setting in the pics above. I still have enough ceiling clearance to increase the gantry height by one to two settings.
DUB, I really value your input and advice. I'm a big follower of your guidance in the body and paint forum.
Here's my raised dolly.
I can work on inside and under dash without bending over. And I have access to underside.
I pulled this off the frame last month.
I used Alan71 measurements and David Howard (AllVettes4Me) plans plus actual measurements.
I got the big rough tread tires so I can move across uneven concrete when it is time to move out to sand and fiberglass.
I need to update my thread as I have gotten a lot more done on the frame since then.
You can do anything you envision but as the saying goes....
"The journey of a thousand miles, begins with a single step"
Hi Glenn,
How high the body needs to be raised to clear the chassis is dramatically reduced by removing first the gas tank and then if needed the distributor and carburetor.
Regards,
Alan
I have the vendor straps also and have lifted 2 bodies so far.
The easiest way to shorten them is just tie a big knot in each strap on each side. Don't pull them rock solid tight. Let the car and hoist do that. And put the knot in the center of the strap so it is easier to untie later on.
How high to lift it is rather easy to figure out....you have to get it high enough for the rocker channels to pass over the front tires. Because I roll the frames out from under it at towards the rear..so I can lift up the rear body slightly when it gets to the fuel tank to pass from under it...and with the distributor cap removed but laying there on the intake area ( depending on spark plug wire design)..I can pull the frame right down the center and not have any issues....BUT...that is also assuming that the IGNITION shields are taken into consideration (if equipped)...due to if they are the chrome side shields off the distributor box...it makes it wider to pass under the body....thus...it will have to go higher. I have never removed a carburetor for a lift off procedure.
