Camber Adjustment Maxed Out
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From: Charlotte NC
You need to look and understand about the part that is being discussed here. Then you will understand why what you are asking does not make sense nor will work at all.
DUB
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From: Western NY
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From: Charlotte NC
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From: Lehigh Valley Pennsylvania
Now I do have a question. Sounds like some of your customers are using adjustables instead of fixing the real problem. How would adjustables compensate for the real issue? With the 3/16" play won't the top shaft be moving in and out and camber be changing a few degrees randomly? Sounds like this is what the OP is trying to do. Is it a viable short term solution?
Last edited by 2mnyvets; May 4, 2018 at 11:17 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Western NY
Sorry DUB. Sarcasm not ignorance. IE If 3/16" doesn't matter why do you need the bushing ?
Now I do have a question. Sounds like some of your customers are using adjustables instead of fixing the real problem. How would adjustables compensate for the real issue? With the 3/16" play won't the top shaft be moving in and out and camber be changing a few degrees randomly? Sounds like this is what the OP is trying to do. Is it a viable short term solution?
Now I do have a question. Sounds like some of your customers are using adjustables instead of fixing the real problem. How would adjustables compensate for the real issue? With the 3/16" play won't the top shaft be moving in and out and camber be changing a few degrees randomly? Sounds like this is what the OP is trying to do. Is it a viable short term solution?
B) most of the adjustable strut rods use "rod ends", or as they're also called, "heim joints". These rod ends have bodies with male threads, which attach them to whatever you need the ability to rotate. In this case, it's a Corvette suspension part. The bodies of the rod ends need something to screw into, thus a piece of steel tubing, creating the "adjustable strut rod".
C) even the OE strut rods are "adjustable". They have to be, as this is how rear camber is set. The OE struts work off of an eccentric, at the inner end of the strut.
Ignoring the side yokes isn't a good "short term fix", since they'll only wear more, and cause more issues.
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From: Plano TX
Something I don't see mentioned yet is the fact that the tip of the yoke is only surface hardened. Once that hardened layer is gone wear increases drastically. What I'm getting at is that a summer of driving will wear the yokes more than you may think. You need to keep a very close eye on them unless you're willing to junk the housing.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
Sorry DUB. Sarcasm not ignorance. IE If 3/16" doesn't matter why do you need the bushing ?
Now I do have a question. Sounds like some of your customers are using adjustables instead of fixing the real problem. How would adjustables compensate for the real issue? With the 3/16" play won't the top shaft be moving in and out and camber be changing a few degrees randomly? Sounds like this is what the OP is trying to do. Is it a viable short term solution?
Now I do have a question. Sounds like some of your customers are using adjustables instead of fixing the real problem. How would adjustables compensate for the real issue? With the 3/16" play won't the top shaft be moving in and out and camber be changing a few degrees randomly? Sounds like this is what the OP is trying to do. Is it a viable short term solution?
IF you do not have a bushing in the end of a factory strut rod. It would be a like pencil on a soda pop can. The pencil is the bolt that would go through the can and the inner diameter of the soda pop can is the inner diameter of the strut rod end. THUS...the strut rod is useless due to it can NOT be adjusted and hold that position. Because the air space between the inner diameter of the can and pencil is so great. This area MUST be at a very close tolerance.
3/16" of end play on the side yoke IS a big deal.
YES. When the side yokes are worn.....and have significant in and out play when the suspension is unloaded. The half shaft can move...thus it changes the camber.
YES. Installing an adjustable strut rod to by-pass the evident side yoke wear is a short term repair that may or may not achieve the desired end result.
The adjustable strut rod can be shortened due to their design...which is what is needed in this scenario.
DUB
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From: Charlotte NC
Something I don't see mentioned yet is the fact that the tip of the yoke is only surface hardened. Once that hardened layer is gone wear increases drastically. What I'm getting at is that a summer of driving will wear the yokes more than you may think. You need to keep a very close eye on them unless you're willing to junk the housing.
And knowing that these side yokes are worn this much. I would also bet that the clutches in this differential are also worn out due to the slurry of material that has been worn off has been circulating around inside the differential and eating of the clutch friction surfaces.
DUB
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From: Western NY
Something I don't see mentioned yet is the fact that the tip of the yoke is only surface hardened. Once that hardened layer is gone wear increases drastically. What I'm getting at is that a summer of driving will wear the yokes more than you may think. You need to keep a very close eye on them unless you're willing to junk the housing.
When I dealt with this issue, on my wife's C-3, I was still working for a large manufacturing corporation, that had all sorts of internal maintenance shops, that could keep a huge factory going, as well as do some "government jobs" for the employees.
It may have been a little "bubba", but I removed the yokes, which fortunately still had the snap rings intact, for a dimensional reference, and we added material to the ends of the yokes, by welding it on. After we built up about 1/8-3/16" of weld, I slid the yokes back in, and measured how much had to be removed, to obtain the proper clearance between the yokes and the spider gear shaft. The excess material was ground off.
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Plano TX
It may have been a little "bubba", but I removed the yokes, which fortunately still had the snap rings intact, for a dimensional reference, and we added material to the ends of the yokes, by welding it on. After we built up about 1/8-3/16" of weld, I slid the yokes back in, and measured how much had to be removed, to obtain the proper clearance between the yokes and the spider gear shaft. The excess material was ground off.
Yeah, that was quite bubba unless you checked hardness and hardened it afterwards as needed.You'd been better off drilling a hole in the end of the yoke and machining a button out of hardened steel. That's actually a quite acceptable repair.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Plano TX
Race Director
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From: Charlotte NC
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
