FWIW - I just installed a pair of 1094's and they did have a clear thin rubbery coating. I would try the cheaper version of the same gasket and spray with copper coat next build.

 

Need pushrods? Need how to choose PR info? Ask Trend; PR manufacturers

Trend's one-piece, 5/16" chome moly 0.080" thick wall SBC sets start about $110.

TREND PERFORMANCE SOUTH

Toll Free:800 326 8368
Local:828-862-8290
Fax: 586 447 0440
114 Lime Kiln Lane
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768

http://trendperform.com/contact.html

http://trendperform.com/file/6545

 

the gasket i received looked like it may have had some clear coating, no black coating.




How forgiving is this copper coat stuff?
How forgiving is the 1094 gasket?

 

What condition were your mating surfaces when you used the 1094 gasket?
Did you use any copper or other sealant?

 

My heads and block were original broached finish. The disclaimer in the package regarding specific surface finish required to use the gasket without additional sealer is difficult to verify easily in the field so......I use a spray can of coppercoat head gasket sealer. Spray both sides of the gasket and you are good to go whatever your surfaces are.

 

OP mongoose
My thoughts? Sounds as though you've been careful ... my gut says those gaskets are probably gonna be OK as is. No guarantee though.

My local advance ap regular retail has 7733SH1 about $13 ... 1094 about $32. YMMV. Mailorder prices less $ + time.

 

Dirty particles are bad. Extra sealer would not worry me much. You just need better solvent to clean them off and respray. I have a gallon of Xylol that I got back when you could buy that in a hardware store. Super strong solvent. 3M makes an amazing adhesive remover solvent you can buy at an automotive paint store that should take any adhesive off safely.

 

I agree but it's tricky ... If particle's large enough to feel it's Bad & gotta go ... but if it's only visible I'd let it go.
Maybe vibrate or sharp-rap ends of heads to knock schmutz loose? then flush w/ water & air.
Since I can't actually see it or feel it ... better safe than sorry & start w/ clean sheet.

Once it's running, maybe flush system with a strong cleaner (oxalic acid-then neutralizer)

 

Hmm, "large enough to feel,"...
It's kind of tough to tell when the copper coat sticks to your fingers.
After all the effort already put in, I'm going to remove the heads again and use new 1094 gaskets without the spray. Even if i did a better job blowing out the head before install, it seems like that copper stuff is just too sticky and there is too much of a risk that during the drying time dust particles will get onto the copper.

 

They have some particles on them when they come out of the package. Cardboard fibers maybe? I just sprayed and torqued them down.

 

Well, I torqued down the heads all the way again, and remeasured the needed pushrod length, just to be sure.
Just to reiterate, I just used checking springs, so I didn't take the lifters out to soak them or pump them up. Tightened down till pushrod didnt spin, then another 1/2 turn.

I measured roughly 7.045, which isn't quite as long as I read about others using. I ordered these rods at 7.046, CRN-11628-16, although I'm sure the more common 7.050 could have worked fine, but with the 0.020 that was shaved off the heads, I want to be as precise as possible with the non-stock setup. They are hardened chromoly, so they shouldn't have any issue with the increased valve spring pressure. Not sure what the exact limits are for the normal "heat treated" pushrods, but it was tough to find any at the correct length, chromoly or not. Thanks Jackson for the information about the limits of the hardened pushrods, at roughly 500lbs before deflection happens.

While I ordered the Fel Pro 1255 intake gaskets before, after much reading I decided not to go with those. Sunk cost, but at least it was comparatively small.
I bought the FEL-MS98000T kit after all the reading I did, even though there are gaskets not needed with the kit and it is a bit expensive for what it is. These are the metal ones layered with rubber/silicone. I wasn't able to find any part numbers for the just intake gaskets, which I find really annoying.

You really have to be careful with these engine enamel colors. I painted the heads with VHT brand chevy orange paint because I ran out of the duplicolor 1620 cans I started with, and i couldn't find more at autozone. Chevy orange in one brand is not the same as others. The duplicolor 1620, to me looks nicer with its brighter orange, so I will repaint the whole engine with 1620 once it is all sealed up. With the vortec heads mounted, there is some of the block mating surface unpainted, so this repainting will help with that as well.

Really excited to get these last few items, and seal this thing back up. Thanks for all the advice thus far.

 

The "hardened" push rods are needed only for heads with guide plates.

Your valve adjusting method has me concerned. The best way is to move the push rod up and down to feel the point where it stops moving up and down, then go a half turn more. The difference between "loose", "in the adjustment range" and "too far" is hard to feel while spinning the push rod. "Stop rotating" could be all the way down at the bottom of lifter available travel and if you go a half turn more, the valve will be off its seat when it is supposed to be closed. The twist feel method is for someone who already knows how it is supposed to feel. Very easy to go too far with a twist method and a first timer.

 

Pushrods:
So i was know chromoly is typically only needed for guideplates in a stock applications, but I also read the normal ones deflect at higher valve spring pressures. I know 350lb isnt that much compared to the requirements of a solid lifter, but it's definitely more than any stock application. If you know of any information about the limits of the normal heat-treated pushrods and valve spring pressures typically resulting in deflection, I would love a link.
I figured getting the chromoly ones wouldnt hurt anything, correct?

Pushrod length measurement:
I can definitely try measuring once more moving the pushrod up and down, opposed to spinning, to verify. Why not?
I can say that i was able to finger tighten the rocker polylock in order to get it to stop spinning, no wrenching that would result in depressing the roller lifter or check spring.

 

Those press-fit Crane 5/16" x 0.062" wall will probably be fine ... I'd have chosen the one-piece Trend 5/16" x 0.080" wall for about same $.

 

So just a little update on the motor and transmission work I've be trying to do:
After ordering those Crane pushrods, CRN-11628-16, I installed them and checked the rocker contact pattern again. They were too short! I measured them against their advertised length, which was 7.046, and they consistently measured 7.025. So I sent them back and rounded up to an even 7.1000 push rod, HRS-95020. The contact pattern is right in the middle where it's supposed to be. Not sure how I messed that up; I used checking springs... oh well.

 

I have been putting all the components back together on the engine, and finally put the engine and transmission back into the engine bay.
WHAT A PAIN IN THE ***!
It definitely wasn't as tough getting it out.
Getting the transmission under the firewall and all the back onto the transmission crossmember was really tough when having the engine hoist coming from the side.

A little side note for the things I did on the transmission; I didn't end up putting a shift kit into the th400, although I'm not really sure if the previous owner did. I didn't open up the valve body. This won't be a race car, so I thought the smoother shifts would be better, and it shifted somewhat firmly before I took everything apart, especially at heavy throttle. The ATF that came out was still red and didn't have anything particularly alarming in it.
I did get a reseal kit, which included front pump seal, tail shaft seal, speedometer gear seal, as well as all the rest of external seals. I didn't change the front pump or tail shaft bearing, but they didn't have any scoring on them when I looked. So I changed all those seals out and put a new filter into it, and hope it will hold up and not leak on me...fingers crossed.
I also used an aftermarket cheapo pan because it has a drain plug on it. I hope this wasn't a mistake.
Before I started taking things apart, the trans leaked more than engine, but it appeared the previous owner filled it far past the top top indicator on the dip stick, probably past the trans pan seal.

I know people love the poly motor and trans mounts, but I ended up going with regular rubber. I like the idea of them absorbing some of the engine vibrations, and the headers get kind of close to the driver's side engine mount, and I am worried it would melt poly. I actually put a ding in the headers to give a little more clearance with the mount.

During the removal process I cut the hose from the hard trans cooler line to the radiator because it was old and the flare nut was kind of corroded onto the radiator, and I'm having a tough time finding the correct hose to replace it.
Any ideas?

Still trying to decide if I should get these cheap ebay headers coated or get some wrap.

Even with the hood off, when I look at the height of the performer intake it is definitely higher. I read a bunch of people use the performer with a drop base without it being a problem, but I wonder if they were talking about the later hoods without the wiper door.

 

Get the trans cooler hose from your local parts store-- make sure you get hose that is clearly marked "TRANS COOLER". The fuel and vacuum hose they sell won't last.

 

Thanks for the heads up.
I picked up some trans cooler hose today, and it is labeled as such. I figure I will replace both of the rubber hoses, as they are both pretty old and crusty.

 

Well, I bought some 304 stainless headers off eBay a while back when I was beginning this project for about $140. In the engine bay there is very ltitle clearance issues, but ground clearance is only about 3 inches.
I guess that's what I get for being a cheapo.
I'm curious how much ground clearance others have with more well known systems like headman and hookers.
Is it 4-5 inches?

 

I don't know what my Doug Thorley headers have for clearance but those look like you will have problems.