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Below I routed all the wires together in the stock location away from linkages and heat.
With the splash shield, vapor canister and washer bottle removed, the back of the fuse box is fairly easy to access.
It has been cleaned with contact cleaner, scrubbed with a fine wire brush, and a fresh coat of dielectic grease to inhibit corrosion.
You dont need to go crazy, just a dab on each terminal.
DO NOT use anything conductive to "help" here. It will short out the whole deal.
Looming in place will be a PITA, but I now have both harnesses criss crossing.
This is duct seal. Sold at electrical houses in 5 lb packages. Originally used for sealing phone cables where they emerge to keep debri and critters out of the raceways. Guys call it dum dum.
If kept in a cool place, it lasts forever. This package is 30 years old and fine.
It is the same stuff you use around refridgerant lines, the back of the fuse box, where I added some here, and I filled a hole in the firewall. If the grommet is missing, this will work.
Grown up play doh.
Yeah. Recieved the #14 fuasble link, and finished my little arc shield.
Mounted the horn relay right side up, and tied that and the alternator in.
A few more decisions, and I will test tomorrow.
Alternator and horn relay done.
Easily switched back to a stock SI on the road.
Horn relay was mounted upside down with one screw.
Now upright so to prevent water intrusion.
Todays quest is to clean up the vacuum lines.
One is too short, I need a line for the vacuum advance, and the intake fitting crowds the HEI location.
I have to see what I can find.
If I get this solved, new plugs, wires, and distributor Sunday.
After that, a few normal things. Door springs are both broken, quartz clock, burned out lamps., misc. normal vette crap.
Hooked up the power. No sparks, no smoke. Always a desirable outcome.
Bumped the starter to where #1 plug wire was.
Timing looks to be about 18* BTDC.
The new unit has an 18* curve, so it's right where I need it.
Plugs are out, so I normally would usd a bar on the front crank bolt, but alas, that is kluged together as well.
If his damper slips this year, I will fix that then.
My goal is to ship it out next weekend.
That gives me a few days to fine tune it, and loom the wires.
Is across the booster a stock location?
The clips imply it, but pretty close to hood latch.
That's the way mine runs. I thought about hiding them under the booster but they would end up close to the rag joint and the shift interlock lever so I decided to not even go there.
Filled the timing line with silver. I like white , but its all I had. Well worth the time if you have acess, and its clean.
I popped the battery cable back off.
I want to install new plugs, and call it a day.
That's the way mine runs. I thought about hiding them under the booster but they would end up close to the rag joint and the shift interlock lever so I decided to not even go there.
DC
Thank you DC. Your very helpfull.
Looks like it was there, as its chaffed.
I will pick some up, and change that hose out before delivery.
I went ahead and pulled the last of the old igntion, and stuffed a rag in the hole.
For you novices, that is a distributor hold down wrench.
I havent a clue if Proto stll makes them.
That's the way mine runs. I thought about hiding them under the booster but they would end up close to the rag joint and the shift interlock lever so I decided to not even go there.
I am going to quit looking.
I set the drop light on the header to install a plug.
Theight shows a header flange bolt missing.
I had a bolt. Fixed.
Look up, and a header bolt is backed out "1/4".
Thin wall socket and PB Blaster solves that.
Anyhow, all the plugs are in.
I am wearing a blindfold tomorrow.