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Well, I guess I'm screwed you coming to Tennessee now.
You never know.
The top picture is the "installers" feed for the vintage air. That unprotected beauty was right on the starter cable.
It now lives on this fuse block with the fans and a spare for headlight relays.
Tell the owner to keep an eye on those connectors. Here is what mine looked like after about 8 years.
Not sure why they overheated but I ended up moving the relays closer to the fans during my current project. And I replaced the connectors with Weather Pack.
Tell the owner to keep an eye on those connectors. Here is what mine looked like after about 8 years.
Not sure why they overheated but I ended up moving the relays closer to the fans during my current project. And I replaced the connectors with Weather Pack.
DC
Poor contact caused overheating.
I need to look at mine. Been about 3 years. Thanks for that.
Today I had time to do the starter area.
I had some #4 scrap, so I made my own ground cable. This crimper does 2,4,6,and #8.
That cable runs from the ground post to the bell housing with a star washer. Better than the starter. No need to touch it when changing the starter. The starter just has purple to solenoid, battery cable, feed to top side post, #4 w/ #8 fusable link, and the ammeter wire with a #18 fusable link. I had some 1000*f sleeve, so I covered the ammeter fusable link.
There is actually almost 2" from the wires to header. The purple wire is between the block and starter.
With the HEI, the coil shunt wire is not used, nor needed.
I bought a spectra sending unit also. Did not seem like the 90 degree rubber boot connection would fit/lock on. Waiting on a new unit from a Vette supplier. How did you make that connection?
This is the alternator I very much like. Powermaster 48207. Its a CS-130D.
It has an idle output of 100 amperes of very clean power. It has two fans, the electronics are external in the back, and it weighs half of an SI. I have two cross country trips under my belt on mine , and it seems very reliable.
In addition, it dimensionally is the same as a 78-82 SI. I use an adapter pigtail, because if it does croak, any parts house will have a metric SI, and you just switch it out to get home. Same belts and brackets.
If you buy one, you just have to swich pulleys with your old SI.
You will need to enlarge your charge wire. No harm, no foul. No such thing as too large a conductor.
Fits just fine. On my 81, it bolts right in.
This 73 has headers, and some unkown header bracket. The 10.5 metric pivot bolt still fits.
As for the swing arm, I just used a 5/16" carraige bolt. The bolt head slides in the slot perfectly. Gives you ease of tightening, and looks like it could be stock.
This is the alternator I very much like. Powermaster 48207. Its a CS-130D.
It has an idle output of 100 amperes of very clean power. It has two fans, the electronics are external in the back, and it weighs half of an SI. I have two cross country trips under my belt on mine , and it seems very reliable.
Good to hear about the reliability. I hope my new Powermaster is just as good. One of the reasons I chose it was the output at idle.
As part of my engine/tranny swap project, I installed the GM serpentine belt kit. The hot post on the alternator that came with the kit touched the valve covers. I could have clocked the back half of the alternator to avoid that but then I wouldn't have been able to use the secondary brace that is recommended. I ended up doing some research and found a Powermaster CS130 that came with a side mounted post.
Can't remember why I didn't choose the 130D. Hope I didn't make a mistake. But, Powermaster claims to have redesigned the 130 to eliminate the known issues.
This is the alternator I very much like. Powermaster 48207. Its a CS-130D.
It has an idle output of 100 amperes of very clean power. It has two fans, the electronics are external in the back, and it weighs half of an SI. I have two cross country trips under my belt on mine , and it seems very reliable.
In addition, it dimensionally is the same as a 78-82 SI. I use an adapter pigtail, because if it does croak, any parts house will have a metric SI, and you just switch it out to get home. Same belts and brackets.
If you buy one, you just have to swich pulleys with your old SI.
You will need to enlarge your charge wire. No harm, no foul. No such thing as too large a conductor.
Can't remember why I didn't choose the 130D. Hope I didn't make a mistake. But, Powermaster claims to have redesigned the 130 to eliminate the known issues.
DC
The D is used on the C5. They like clean power. This one off the 99 is original. Perhaps the only thing under that cars hood.
As for the SI, I have a rack of parts from the 81 that it eats. I have 5 dead SI aternators, and 4 of the R4 A /C compressors. Sanden next time.
Waiting on #14 fusable links. UPS sent a nice note saying they sent it to Kansas City by mistake, where it sat 4 days . Crap. Well it gets here today.
Started fabbing a guard out of Lexan. I hope I can soak the old paper off.
It still makes it very easy to jump the battery.
These two #10 get the #14 link.
One feeds the ignition switch, the other the power window cb, and daisy chains to the horn relay.
The silver loom is 1000*
It covers the #18 fusable link for the ammeter link.
I will shield all the links here because of the proximity to the glass and other wires.
It should contain a fault.
The few wires on the engine itself I ran on one side. I will loom it all after I finish and test.
The HEI, choke heater, and fan "enable" are all on that Orange Ign wire I used.
