and this is stock for me: 462624.....75-86...350/400......76cc chamber, 1.72/1.5, 1.94/1.5 or 2.02/1.6 valves

 

are sure cam is good ,you said you changed lifters were old ones damaged in any way

 

H-m-m-m-m-.
All that cast iron makes me break out in hives.

 

I don't see the word vortec anywhere.
And you sure don't want that style. Your Intake won't fit.

 

replaced them since I was there wanted to refresh the engine. Have to see cam tomorrow with bright light.

 

here is another. exhaust is 1.6 vs 1.5 stock. reading on this noone seems to say it's a problem but if it's bigger makes me think it will be.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dart-...evy,65785.html

 

here is the description unless you saw a different one

Summit Racing SUM-151124 - Summit Racing® Vortec Cylinder Heads

 

More money and less hardware:
No Guide Plates
No Rocker Studs.

 

You need to slow down. Breath. Take your time and go through the engine and try to find out what was actually wrong. My guess is valve lash, and possibly the distributor is 180* out too.

Then, decide what you actually want from the car. Do you want to just leave it stock or do you want more performance?

You just posted that the valves didn't leak so your head is fine. They aren't completely crapped up and filthy like you keep posting. They look exactly as expected for an older engine that is carbureted and likely not tuned perfectly and also likely burning a bit of oil.

If you DO NOT want to install new heads to increase performance then do not pull the other head. Clean the gasket surface on both the head and the block and put that head back on. There are tricks you can use to clean the head gasket surface, like a sheet of sandpaper using a mirror as a backer. Also, copper coat spray works wonders to help the seal.

 

How do your hamstrings feel? I can't imagine anything more hateful than leaning over the wide fenders of a C3 to replace the heads. Which is why I suggested a new engine, if that is your goal for this car. Or at least pull the engine to do the work. And I freely admit this is terrible advice, but in for a penny, in for a pound. @lionelhutz's suggestion is much more reasonable.

Here's a build thread from a former member (I think he sold the car) who did what you might end up doing, and replaced the top end of an engine with the engine in the car. Ouch.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ld-thread.html

 

So it sounds as though You put some degreaser into the Combustion Chambers and it didn't all run out past the Valves. I'd be willing to bet putting compressed air in the remaining head spark plug holes won't leak out as well. But its so simple and easy to do You might as well. As soon as You do this and it passes You can eliminate the Heads and Valves as the problem and just leave the remaining Head on. Then You can move on to the next step in diagnosing what's wrong.

 

I may have missed this but did you check compression on all cylinders? If you did and all are at zero to 10psi that is very odd!!! Makes me think your gauge is possibly faulty? Or someone or something is pressing in on the pressure release valve on the gauge. New heads are great, and typically easy HP but in your case, from what you describe they are not the issue. Save your money. You have already done a little test on the head so now do a similar test on the pistons. Get the cheapest 0W20 oil and pour some on the top of the pistons that have the head removed. If the oil is gone in a minute you may have cracked piston ring lands. As stated before, place compressed air in each cylinder on the side that still has the head on. This will let you know if the head and cylinders are good. Once this is done report back your findings.

My old saying is check the light switch first before selling the house just because the light is out.... I think you are over thinking the issue and it will be something easy to find once some basic testing is done.

As for the noise you heard, we can assess that after you post you findings to the tests above.

 

thanks bike. Yes I’m going to replace since now I’m in this deep and would actually like a bit more hp. Why not? The originals seem to be the worst of the worst based on the last three digits of the stamp. Of course everyone has an opinion. 76cc FYI. I have an eye on ones at 64cc. Will post later. Carb is in route. I keep delaying things to do exactly that: breathe.

 

once I get the heads in will put back together, lash, tdc and try again. New carb in route. Scored a brand new Holley for practically nothing!! With the engine disassembled in this fashion I am sitting right in the middle of two fronts: do I spend some scratch on the heads, put it all back, then try again. Or do I go in all the way. That’ll cost quite a bit. I need to slow down on that front as well

 

No air leak on remaining head that I can tell. Like Jebby said lash or tdc I’m praying. By the way! I ordered Bosch iridium spark plugs that I’m waiting to put in but saw a members thread about car getting extremely hot. He replaced them back to Delco and problem solved. Thoughts?

 

About every 10 years or so somebody comes out with a better Spark Plug. Remember the E3's or whatever they were they were a big sponcer of SuperCross Motorcycle Racing. Only problem was the Teams that were sponcered by them didn't even use them. The OEM's have started using Platinum Plugs that are good for 100k miles why ? Cause then they can offer 100k all maintenance free warranty and tell You with a straight face that the Plugs don't need to be changed yet. So in the long run they are cheaper.
So now that we think the Leaking Valves are not the problem lets figure out what is. Are any of the Push Rods Bent ? Pull a couple of the Lifters out and look at the end of the Lifter that touch's the Cam. The Lifters need to go back in the same hole they came out of so don't mix them up just do one at a time. When You have one out shine a light down the hole and look at the Cam Lobe. Everything should be a Machined surface your looking at. A google search to bad Cam lifters should produce lots of pictures of what You do not want to see. Report back.

 

Are You able to roll the Engine over by hand ? If so roll it till the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center. This is the forward Cylinder on the Drivers side. Both Lifters on the Cam should be down in the bore neither of them coming up. If not turn the Engine another 180 degs. Once You have done this and the Piston is at the Top and the Lifters are at the bottom look at the Timing Mark on the Harmonic Balancer it should line up with the Timing Marks on the Cam Cover. Report back.

 

I am confused by this? you stated before you changed the lifter just to "freshen up" the engine? It was after someone suggested it, but was just kidding around in one of your other threads. The posts about the zero compression didnt come about till after you pulled your rockers and lifters unless im missing something? Realistically unless the lifters were in some way damaged You have more of a chance of causing damage to your flat tappet cam than if you just left the working matched setup alone..
Did the engine run before you pulled the top end apart and after you changed your timing chain? If so than you had to adjust something wrong with the rockers... If not you may have the timing chain installed incorrectly. If you replace heads now you wont be any further ahead and actually run the risk of damaging your new heads until you find out what your doing wrong in the first place..

I tried a bunch of the platinum style plugs and ended up finding in the end, the best running combo for my newly rebuilt engine was the stock ac delco plugs.

 

He already replaced all his lifters so theres no wear pattern on them to match the wear on the cam. If I understand what Ive been reading thats what caused the issues hes having with compression.

 

what say to this since i'm replacing anyway:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-T...lug,25118.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/BlueP...ead,61849.html