push rods are nice and straight. new lifters old are not damaged at the bottom.

 

haven't removed the timing cover/ damper/ water pump yet. i already replaced those around 10 months ago. did you think perhaps the timing chain jumped?

 

was working fine since I replaced the timing chain if you remember it was nice and timed as well after when I did the advanced timing. This all came about when I changed the intake manifold. Now the more and more I realize none of what I'm doing can possibly be the cause I wonder if the chain skipped. The lifters do go down when I rotate to TDC. Since I was already having the issue, and I removed the lifters to see if they were damaged at that point and they weren't, I thought to myself why not. I put the original rods and rockers back since they seem to be better quality than the aftermarket. Lashed according to the web (great video I posted here up above) using EIOC. Since I still had not compression, I back the lash off and went to 10 compression. Before Gale h ad suggested possibly a faulty compression tool, I bought a cheap Harbor freight one to test same result. (my buddy lent me his he had laying around).

 

no compression before this was done. That's when I thought the lifter replacement can help (which after this educational thread made me realize was a waste of time).

 

Ok thanks for clarifying. I honestly dont know what would cause you problem then based on that alone. Did you remove any rockers prior to this issue?

 

You need to do some forum research (not just here) on budget Al heads if that's the way you want to go. I know there are a few best choices out there, but I don't follow very closely and can't recall the details. I think there is a company starting with a good Chinese casting and assembling it with good valvetrain parts that is the hot ticket right now. The thing is, you have to be careful because poor valvetrain parts in a cheap head can lead to a broken broken piece with can cause a valve to drop. Only bright side would be you get the new engine you eventually want.

Don't forget, you also need new pushrods and head bolts with washers as a minimum.

 

So, when did you lose compression and what happened right before you lost it? In other words, tell everything that happened between the last time it ran correctly and the loss of compression.

 

hi it was the steps above from my long response. Happened right after the back fire from the carb twice. I thought maybe I was out 180 degrees. Drop the New dizzy back in when I had some compression at spark plug one then kept cranking till zero on damper. pointing rotor to 1. tstill backfired very hard then metal grind sound. Checked tdc with method above again and compression dropped to barely any.

 

anyone know the cam lift on this block? 180? 200? Floteck build them right in their warehouse. They answer the phone right away

 

I am still at a loss as to the none to 10psi compression. I see you ran the test again with another compression tester and still have the same results.

If when turning the crank shaft (by hand or with the starter) the cam shaft is turning (moving the lifters and rocker arms) that is good. That tells me the cam and crank are still connected via the timing chain. Even if your chain jumped a tooth or two you will still have some compression. It will not run that way but you will have some compression. That is depending on piston to valve clearance as you may have punched a hole in a piston. Did you check the piston seal with oil to confirm the ring lands are good? AND is the one head still in place and did you put compressed air in through the spark plug hole to make sure that side is ok?

The other thing to check and I am sure you would have noticed this. When the crank is turned do all the pistons move up and back down? I ask because I was working on a 4.3l boat motor and the crank shaft broke just behind the main bearing. The front pistons moved but not the back. It was a very clean break and caused no noise. I could turn the crank by hand and the front pistons moved and when I used the starter the rear pistons moved.

If all this checks ok and from your other tests checking ok then the issue must be the way you set the valve / rocker lash.

 

hi so the oil test I’ll do today or tomorrow for leaks. Every rocket arms moves beautifully when cranking by hand. Blowing air I see nothing leaking. Going to order the heads rockers and rods since I’m replacing anyway. That gives me a chance to breathe and give some thought to what’s going on. I’ll probably get them next week. I called them they will put it together for me but asked what loft 180 or 200. They said either way but I want 100% sure if anyone knows

 

So I gather at some point You replaced the Lifters but not the Cam ? Why ? If so have You looked at the Lifters recently ?

 

Did you read my post about selected cheap Al heads? Don't go by a parts site or just calling manufacturers. There are people who have actually tested the cheap options and posted the results. ProMAXX and Profiler might be 2 heads to look into. But maybe they where a few years ago and they're not anymore...

 

And the Lifters You used were the same as the Hyd Flat Tappet ones that came out ? You didn't upgrade to a Solid and or Roller Lifter did You ?

 

I don't understand, someone asked when you lost compression and you responded no compression before this was done, which seems to be saying before you pulled the intake and changed the lifters.

 

When this happened and I started again and removed the intake I saw them and no damage. I replaced them since I was in there and was going to do the rods but the new ones seemed cheap

 

no I got direct replacement oe and compared side to side they look identical I’ll find a pic. Remember I already had the compression issue before touching

 

I’m going to make a video because I’m responding to different questions on different steps I’ve performed. This way I can show and tell

 

ok this is the video I made guys explaining the steps.

 

can you turn the engine with a wrench? turn the engine until #1 exhaust is just closing. at the point that the exhaust is just finishing closing and #1 intake is just opening, number 6 should be right at TDC. then you can verify with the timing mark. if you didn't put a new plastic tooth chain in, it did NOT jump any teeth.