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Wait isn’t hand cranking the same as starter just safer?
BINGO! I think we found your problem if you tried to check for compression by hand. You wont get compression readings by hand cranking its too slow... Thats one reason you could have no compression!
Last edited by augiedoggy; Apr 10, 2021 at 09:09 AM.
Yes you must use the starter to get compression readings.
Doing it by hand could well give you zero compression
That last video goes into great detail to make sure the hydraulic lifters are in the middle of their .060" stroke.
If you over tighten past that they will just bottom out and the valves will never close and you will get zero compression..
Either issue would give you zero compression.
Your engine looks basically sound so it must be one of those two.
If the Intake Valves are not opening then it can't make compression. The Valve Train has to be in adjustment to get a true reading of compression that pertains to whats right and whats wrong.
It will draw air in through all the empty sparkplug holes while cranking during the test..
BINGO! I think we found your problem if you tried to check for compression by hand. You wont get compression readings by hand cranking its too slow... Thats one reason you could have no compression!
So I think we need to determine your Compression Testing procedures. It is best to remove all the Spark Plugs this way the Engine will turn over faster on the Starter Motor. Then open the Throttle All the way open. Then test one Cylinder at a time. I would like to point out that You are now pumping an Air Fuel mixture out the Spark Plug holes and You have 8 Plugs wires laying about that could ignite it. Its best to dis connect the Distributor prior. In your situation You might try doing this before You put the Carb back on.
If the Intake Valves are not opening then it can't make compression. The Valve Train has to be in adjustment to get a true reading of compression that pertains to whats right and whats wrong.
Doh! well, of course you're correct. Not sure where my brain went!
Doh! well, of course you're correct. Not sure where my brain went!
ok let me get the correct:
1) all sparks plugs out driver side head.
2) distributor isn’t in right now at all. Leave it out.
3) my fuel line is clamped with pliers but leave carb to one side like I have in the pic. Will cranks buddy the line since it’s clamped?
4) intake manifold still off
5) lifters lashed when I barely have rocker movement and both rockers are up on 1.
6) slight crank. keep doing a slight crank till I get to one.
7) think positive and compression is there.
8) get everything back on.
As long as the Carb is level it won't overflow with fuel coming from the pump. No need to crimp the hose. Do not kinda crank the Engine over give it everything its got and let it spin lets say 3 revolutions. There is going to be a lot of air pumping in and out of the 3 remaining open spark plug holes but the one You have the Gauge is on will gain more pressure each revolution. After 3 it will probably be getting some what close to its max pressure but since we have loose Lifters and Oil starting to show up here and there lets keep it to around 3 revolutions. Then we might think about putting things back together before more testing.
Before putting the Intake Manifold on we really need to get the Engine on TDC on the #1 Cylinder and see that the Timing Marks on the Balancer and the and the Cam cover line up. This is important and might be the cause of this whole mess.
As long as the Carb is level it won't overflow with fuel coming from the pump. No need to crimp the hose. Do not kinda crank the Engine over give it everything its got and let it spin lets say 3 revolutions. There is going to be a lot of air pumping in and out of the 3 remaining open spark plug holes but the one You have the Gauge is on will gain more pressure each revolution. After 3 it will probably be getting some what close to its max pressure but since we have loose Lifters and Oil starting to show up here and there lets keep it to around 3 revolutions. Then we might think about putting things back together before more testing.
Before putting the Intake Manifold on we really need to get the Engine on TDC on the #1 Cylinder and see that the Timing Marks on the Balancer and the and the Cam cover line up. This is important and might be the cause of this whole mess.
Pressure jumped up. I think you’re right the damn tdc was the cause of all this I hope to God. Where should the pressure stop. I kinda cranked it before reading this. Going back outside in a minute to give it 3 revs
Pressure jumped up. I think you’re right the damn tdc was the cause of all this I hope to God. Where should the pressure stop. I kinda cranked it before reading this. Going back outside in a minute to give it 3 revs
ok I gave it all she’s got for a few revs and got to 150 and stopped. I happen to land at 6 degrees above zero which should be advanced 6? Look at the lifters. 1 is bottomed out and remember all the rockers are loose so I should be on tdc cylinder 1 advanced 6 degrees? Or am I now locking down the rods using the video I sent before. And no leaks on exposed pistons. Am I cleaning that up with anything special?
Last edited by michael lamoglia; Apr 10, 2021 at 02:08 PM.
You need to get a pan under the drain plug and let it drain / drip for a day. You have an awful lot of crap in those cylinders seeping past the rings.
And don't crank it anymore until the oil is cleaned up. You don't want that oil going in the bolt holes or coolant passages.
As far as cleaning up the deck surface or head surface, no metallic, no sandpaper, no scratches!
Use a plastic or nylon tool that's non abrasive like a Scotch Brite, dipped in Acetone.
Champaign for everyone.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 10, 2021 at 04:07 PM.
You need to get a pan under the drain plug and let it drain / drip for a day. You have an awful lot of crap in those cylinders seeping past the rings.
And don't crank it anymore until the oil is cleaned up. You don't want that oil going in the bolt holes or coolant passages.
As far as cleaning up the deck surface or head surface, no metallic, no sandpaper, no scratches!
Use a plastic or nylon tool that's non abrasive like a Scotch Brite, dipped in Acetone.
Champaign for everyone.
champagne indeed!
any good links to getting tdc right? Which gasket do you like?
So nothing but good news. It would appear that we probably had compression all along. And its looks to me that it did stop very close to TDC. ( if an engine only has compression in one cylinder thats probably where its going to stop) Id get a Shop Vac going on those cylinders and some Oil on them before anything decides to rust. Since You happen to have the other Head off one of the other pistons must also be a TDC but not on the firing stroke. This would mean that its lifters are not down in there bores. You could turn the Engine by hand just a little to get it as close to TDC as possible and re check the timing marks. Then just double check that the Lifters are down on #1 and rocking on the other TDC Cylinder. This is where You will want to leave the engine till You get the Distributor in.
Since it looks like You are only 6 degrees away from TDC you will probably not see much movement in the Pistons. I'd just turn the Engine by hand till the Timing Marks line up and confirm the Lifters are bottomed out on #1 and not on the other TDC Cylinder.
Last edited by Gale Banks 80'; Apr 10, 2021 at 06:04 PM.
Reason: Wasn't very clear
Your probably going to just want a standard Felpro head gasket. I take it the Gasket that came off just looked OEM and had nothing to indicate i was aftermarket. You do have a Torque Wrench ? Google will lead You to the proper way to tighten the Head Bolts. I recommend adjusting the Valves prior to putting the Intake on.