pics

 

Fun-fun-fun.
You said you put the old lifters back in. Trying to remember one of your post about you said you tagged which bore the lifters came out of. Correct?

I used to use Moly Lube on everything back in the day. That's all there was. Long before super-duper break-in special formula lube.
But Moly is a thick grease and I was cautious about not applying any to the pushrod tips. Just a dab of oil works fine.

If you think coolant did get into the lifters I would be concerned about the water not flushing itself out. It would sink to the bottom of the lifter even after priming the oil system. Should you remove each one and turn it up-side-down? IDK It may burn off later.

Update: Now I see an additional problem. That oil pump primer is to be used with the Intake in place. The collar on the shaft is designed to help build up pressure only with the Intake. That is likely why there was not much oil at the rockers.

And, choose your Intake Gasket Sealer wisely my friend.

 

labeled each lifter before. Bet there is water under each one still correct. Don’t mention moly lube please lol.

got it about the primer
sealer for intake suggest one in the name of God

 

There are two types of oil primer tools. One has no collar that would fit into the Intakes dizzy hole. They are around $9 and don't work all that great.
The best ones are like what you have. The collar keeps the oil pump from loosing pressure in the dizzy hole. But only if the Intake is mounted.
That is also why a gasket goes between the dizzy flange & the Intake. There is oil pressure under there.
It takes a hella ofa corded drill to spin the pump for any length of time.

For what its worth, you can put new lifters on old cam lobes.
New lifters on new lobes.
But not old lifters on new lobes.

Intake Gasket Sealer? Can't say it. Can't spell it. But Edelbrocks Gastinich? Both sides of gasket. A little RTV around the water ports both sides.
But first, I like to coat just bottom side of the gasket, lay Intake in for weight. Let it set over-nite. Next morning, remove Intake, coated top side of gaskets then Permatex Right Stuff on the china walls. (no gasket).
Thread sealant on the bolts.

 

Intake or not has no effect on the priming tool working. You need the sleeve that simulates the distributor body where it passes through the block valley, and your picture shows that sleeve on the primer tool. The washer that sits in the intake hole just holds the tool centered, nothing else.

 

that is my method too. i use the china wall gaskets to set the long gaskets in place and drop the intake on to stick the intake gasket to the head. then replace china wall gaskets with bead of RTV after gasket is set in placew. this way you also get to check your gasket alignment and be sure it is gonna stay where it belongs.

 

We went all through this discussion last year. I still say the upper collar of the tool has to be snug into the Intake to build full oil pressure.

Don't you remember all the posters that did not have the upper collar better tool and could not get oil to the rockers?

 

The intake doesn't have oil passages and has nothing to do with the oil pump lubrication in a small block. It will oil the same with or without it. There is NO oil pressure under the intake on a small block or big block Chevy that the distributor flange has to hold back.

You need the bushing with the oil groove to make proper oil pressure and get oil to both heads. This bushing goes into the hole in the bottom of the valley right above the cam.

The intake washer on the right only serves to center the shaft as I already posted. You can take that washer off and throw it away and the tool will still perform the pre-oiling job just fine.



I don't know what discussion was had, but obviously it wasn't very productive because you're still spreading bad information about how these old Chevy motors are oil pressurized.

 

So I finally got my engine running yesterday after a roller cam conversion. To address the oiling of everything I did the same thing I did when I originally built the engine with a flat tappet. I simply unplugged the 12v from the distributor and cranked the engine over a number of times for 6-8seconds at a time to prime everything with oil. I did this quite a bit and then put my battery on a chargers to top it off.
I needed to prime the carb with fuel anyway. Off topic but I was glad everything went well considering I made so many changes... the electric fans both work and my stock type $60 chrome 105amp alternator from ebay still puts out 13.88v with both fans running along with headlights at idle so im happy so far.
After the topic of head replacement came up here I ended up researching heads for days. I decided I will eventually replace my iron dart heads. I bought a set of the bare aluminum castings that AFR sells as the enforcer heads they are the same heads skip white sells as the NKB and blueprint also rebrands as their own.. Going to try my hand at mild porting them after I watch every porting video I can get my eyes on.

 

the way you do the gasket is exactly how I did it the first two times before I start tearing things apart. I have the gaskacinch thing works great by the way holds it in place I use optimum black for the front and rear of intake then let sit for 24 hours. I am so tired after a long day I can't get myself to go out there but will try and put that back on tomorrow then drop the dizzy then mount the carb.

 

it did prime remember but not all that great which led me to suspect the lifters and moly gunk and sure enough full of gunk. I tried with old lifters and old rods after blowing them out and still get minimal oil going thru so I believe there is merit to the oil pressure. Remember the intake is off and there are exposed 'holes' all about the gallery.

 

the gaskacinch stuff holds it in place. I'll send a pic of it in a moment.

 

I saw those videos. Seems to me you really have to get the grinding down pat to ensure a good 'seal' for the valves. I would stick to the 'built' ones instead of bare bones. You're a masochist like me huh? lol

 

So, did you see any oil pumping out of these holes?

There are no holes in the valley that the intake plugs. There is no oil pressure under the intake at the distributor hole.

 

I am just planning on doing mild bowl cleanup work on the new heads to improve flow. You dont grind where the valve seat seals. (they already flow better than my dart heads out of the box) I will be installing my own valves and springs and such as Ive already had this stuff off and on my dart heads and there is no great skill needed when it comes to assembling hardware onto heads or lapping them to check the seal. doing it this way gives me piece of mind the hardware is good quality and also saves me money since I have the extra set of comp cams springs. The heads completed will have cost me about $650 with the $410 the castings cost me shipped I could probably get most of that back by selling my old iron eagles afterwards.

 

You might want to get this book too. Lots of good info in it. I found most of the video's on line to be of limited value. The book is of great value.
The second one linked goes into many ways to make power.
The cnc finish on the intake ports works to atomize fuel well. Polishing the exhaust and the combustion chambers may help a bit.
Look up texturing intake manifolds.

 

nope.

 

So I got the intake back on got the dizzy in. Now here are two issues. New holley carb 4175 near impossible to get to nuts that screw on to studs. Now here are two issues: what adapter am I using to connect the brake booster? nothing there. And how the heck am I supposed to put the bracket on when there's no clearance on the nuts as it is. The bracket holley sells doesn't specify the 4175 model.

 

Got mine working today. everything back in with old carb (I don’t have the energy to fight with a new carb with modifying brackets etc. left exhaust off just to try and get it turned over. Kicked up after 2 pumps of the gas. Hissed at the carb and shut off. Pumped it twice more and it came up. Revved it to keep it going and shut off. At this point I’m sure it’s adjusting dizzy, etc. it sounded like a tank due to no exhaust manifold connected lol so I stopped. Connected exhaust manifold back up and tried again and it turned over and shut off. I need to advance it I believe. No more explosions. Have to connect the exhaust pipe to manifold so I can hear myself will try tomorrow to fine tune. Success my brothers. All this pain and agony when it was a timing issue in the first place I hope. Moral of the story, don’t remove your dizzy without know where it went and where it’s pointing.
Once I’m good then I’ll pop the Holley in and fine tune. Will need advice on where the hoses go.

 

So got old carb back in started her up pumped it few times and it started. Shut off. Did it again same thing. Advanced the dizzy a bit and it started up. Dies if I don’t give it gas. Any ideas. See my video.