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well this sucks. broke the piece off trying to replace. bushings crumbled and clips were like paper just broke away. great.
now I have to use the other dizzy. Changed the two springs on that one and added the adjustable vac can. set the can tighter. went back to carb intake which has zero static pressure until you rev then I hit about 27 max.
here are the settings. not a happy camper.
VAC PLUGGED: AVERAGE 775RPM AS REFERENCE
10 BTDC IDLE
TIMING LIGHT SET TO 15 FOR TDC
TIMING LIGHT 35 TO TDC AT 3600 RPM
26 AT 2200RPM AS REFERNCE
I'M AT 15-36.
WITH VAC
TIMING LIGHT SET TO 15 FOR TDC AT 775RPM IDLE
TIMING LIGHT SET TO 48 AT 3200RPM
TIMING LIGHT TO 15 TDC IDLE AGAIN
Last edited by michael lamoglia; May 11, 2021 at 06:30 PM.
Go back to post #240, and do that again. You should be at 36 degrees advanced, all-in mechanical, with your vacuum disconnected and plugged, at 3000 RPM. If you get full mechanical at 2000 RPM (which is what a stock L82 distributor may do), you need slightly stiffer springs from the Mr. Gasket kit, or whatever you got. You shouldn't need to change the weights.
The Crane 99619-1 that @sstocker31 linked is exactly what you need to fix either your stock can, or your NAPA can, or you can run the adjustable can.
Once you have the mechanical set, an idle mixture adjustment may get you a few more inches of vacuum at idle, so any of the cans should work, if they are limited to 10-12 degrees of advance.
Pick one dist, run it. Pick one can, run it. And set the timing already. I can't believe this thread is 300 posts long! You should be out enjoying your car, and beer and burgers, not entertaining us on the Forum.
EDIT: I see the distributor chose you. You still want manifold vacuum to your can.
Last edited by Bikespace; May 11, 2021 at 06:37 PM.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by michael lamoglia
ok all put back together new plugs in (much nicer) dropped dizzy at tdc. Here is what I got.No vacuum
Light at zero rpm 685. I rotated counterclockwise to get to 4 degrees btdc so it’s a bit less rough.
Light gun at 23 rpm 3600 still no vac
Back to idle Light gun at 4 to get to tdc. 730 rpm
WITH VAC:
light gun to 15 to get tdc rpms are 845-975 if a/c fan kicks on slows to 845.
Light gun to 35 to get to tdc at 3600rpm. Stops advancing btw starting around 2100ish
We are back where we started I think.
as a test My mighty vac measures 11-14 hg from manifold vac. To get vac can to start advancing I have to pump the mighty vac to 21-24hg
Originally Posted by resdoggie
It looks like your vacuum advance maximum is about 11* which it should be for your new vac canister.
Now, with no vacuum connected, advance your initial timing from 4* to 14* at idle. Now check it at 3600 rpm. It should now be about 33* which is very close to where you want it.
Now, with vacuum connected, it should now be about 25* at idle and your manifold vacuum should now have increased and your idle speed. Turn down the idle speed to about 800 rpm. Increase rpm to 3600 and the timing should be about 44*.
Now go for a test drive and listen for any pinging.
Bikespace, all he had to do, based on his post above, was to increase his initial advance to 14* from 4* that he posted. But he has again chosen to ignore good advice and play around with his distr's and curve kits. It may take another 300 posts before our advice sinks in, lol.
Bikespace, all he had to do, based on his post above, was to increase his initial advance to 14* from 4* that he posted. But he has again chosen to ignore good advice and play around with his distr's and curve kits. It may take another 300 posts before our advice sinks in, lol.
well at least don't leave me on the damn island alone. lol
Bikespace, all he had to do, based on his post above, was to increase his initial advance to 14* from 4* that he posted. But he has again chosen to ignore good advice and play around with his distr's and curve kits. It may take another 300 posts before our advice sinks in, lol.
all right. 19 at idle with vac and 45 at 3600rpm. there we go.
If I keep playing with the can I get a bit more on idle (say 25) then 52 at 3600.
back to manifold vac btw.
less is more correct?
Last edited by michael lamoglia; May 11, 2021 at 07:51 PM.
The numbers are a response to Resdoggies' post.
Originally Posted by resdoggieView Post
It looks like your vacuum advance maximum is about 11* which it should be for your new vac canister.
Now, with no vacuum connected, advance your initial timing from 4* to 14* at idle. Now check it at 3600 rpm. It should now be about 33* which is very close to where you want it.
Now, with vacuum connected, it should now be about 25* at idle and your manifold vacuum should now have increased and your idle speed. Turn down the idle speed to about 800 rpm. Increase rpm to 3600 and the timing should be about 44*.
I'm 19 idle and 45 at 3600. isn't this what we wanted?
Now go for a test drive and listen for any pinging.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I do not know why you are so infatuated with the vacuum advance settings as they are secondary in the timing curve. Its the total timing you want to focus on getting right i.e. 34-36* at 3000 rpm and not 3600 rpm as someone told you. I mentioned 3000 rpm in a way earlier post but it has fell on deaf ears so I kept saying 3600 to be consistent even though its the wrong target rpm. The right rpm is 3000 as I and Bikespace said. It looked like you had it dialed in on your old dist'r but then you changed distr's, etc.
I may have repeated 3400-3500 rpm myself. Sorry for the confusion I usually take it up over 3000 myself just to be absolutely sure the distributor is all in and isnt moving any further past 3000rpm. Honestly I thought we there just about there at one point... But here we are like 3 pages later and multiple new wrenches being constantly thrown into the works..
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 12, 2021 at 07:53 AM.
A quick note. I appreciate you all. Obviously it is 100% MY FAULT for not re reading or reading more than once.
But also understand for a guy like me to read 'you need to replace your can to limit advance' then 'limiter works best' then springs may need to be replaced with tighter one, mechanical, advanced, vac, no vac, hoover vac, and on and on is what I get hung up on.
NOW
The REAL issue isn't the awesome advice and info from different places, it's my moving on to the next step or exploratory foolishness I'm famous for instead of getting step xxx spot on FIRST.
My wife asks me from time to time how it's going and I reference 'the guys on the forum' all the time as if we're all neighbors, and in a way we are. She said something to me yesterday when I was all frustrated about the dizzy I broke that didn't ask to be broken. 'Baby, how much are you paying for those guys to help you?'
Made me think how beautiful ya'll are in giving your time and attention to a guy who's lost. NO REASON for anyone to keep coming back to this soap opera. Easily you could have dismissed this as another idiot messing things up (and I know I am but don't say it lol).
With all that being said, let's remember my saga for the poor sap who just got this far reading this stuff here.
1) changed intake manifold. put wrong gasket since I removed egr and had to do it again. Pulled dizzy out without marking it. who cares? I can set to tdc and plop it in.
2) THIS IS WHY IT MATTERS: put dizzy 180 out, heard loud explosion, assumed blown head cuz mr. google said so. Ignored advice here.
3) lost compression so I ASSumed I blew a headgasket. Found out 400 posts later you don't get compression from cranking the engine and not with your hand (no real compression). Ignored the advice here
4) pulled out intake to remove head and decided to replace lifters since i was there (I don't blame anyone for suggesting it even as a joke I should know better by now). JebbySan said pretty clearly it's not the head gasket. because of low compression. Ignored advice here.
5) Experimented with all sorts of things in regards to valves and their condition. Had to now clean up the head from old residue, buy new gasket and new arp bolts to tighten it down. About 40 posts are related to 'it's not the head dumba*& and yet I trudged ahead.
6) put it all back together. Now had to relash since I fooled with the lifters for no reason. It took me forever to LASH CORRECTLY and its anybody's guess if its well done. (I think I did a pretty good job on that at least) and I used the correct method after I read the posts 9 times. Ignored it till I couldn't figure it out.
7) Had to flush oil 3 times to get any water out of there as well as flush the radiator twice from all the gunk. At least some good came from my replacing the manifold. Lots of carbon. New plugs as well.
7a) REPLACED CARB IN THE MIDDLE OF ALL THIS BECAUSE.....WELL I DON'T KNOW WHY I WOULD WHEN I HAVE TO FIX OTHER THINGS FIRST!!!!
8) Then I spent 200 posts timing all the while - say it with me - IGNORING ADVICE HERE.
So at any rate, thank God for my wife putting up with my idiocy. If anyone ever needs technical advice in regards to high speed internet or computers let me know (TELCO).
Now let movie continue!
Last edited by michael lamoglia; May 12, 2021 at 06:58 PM.
Glad you admitted not listening to the advice, it's a common thing on the forum. I also think it would be hard to listen to all the different pieces of advice when it's coming at you like a fire hose,,,and especially when you and others are using slightly different terminology.
I can say CHECK 4 times...
The last one seems off...only 5 degrees of vacuum advance when the hose is connected, should be more like 12-13.
Lots of fun brother. at this point I think I know a bit about HEI and the other stuff. lol. Went to the car show. Rides a little rough. Idling in gear feels very rough. Increased idle seems to have helped a little. Street driving and highway seems stable. It could you tuning. I'll tackle that later this week. Remember I haven't tuned the carb yet.
Some pics of tonight's meet. It was busier but I took the pics late.
also a small video. If they only knew of all the back and forth on my car lol. I had a food truck go and meet us and two showed up.
Like @lionelhutz, I'm at 4 "Checks", and a question.
As was pointed out, 5 degrees of vacuum advance is low. Several pages ago you stated that your vacuum at idle is low, lower than the vac can's required full advance vacuum.
If you have a Tee, you can use your Mity-Vac to measure the vacuum at idle, while the vacuum advance is plugged into manifold vacuum. I'm guessing you'll see 10 in-hg, which isn't enough to get the full throw of your vac can. That's your 5 degrees of vacuum advance (10 + 5)
Can you then, without the Tee, pull vacuum directly on the vacuum can, with the engine running, and see if you can get a total of 10-12 degrees of vacuum advance (10 + 10or12 = 20 or 22).
When you get to carb tuning, you may find that an adjustment to the idle mixture solves your low idle vacuum.
But in the meantime, you now (again) have a running, driving Corvette. I'm glad to see you are enjoying it!
Like @lionelhutz, I'm at 4 "Checks", and a question.
As was pointed out, 5 degrees of vacuum advance is low. Several pages ago you stated that your vacuum at idle is low, lower than the vac can's required full advance vacuum.
If you have a Tee, you can use your Mity-Vac to measure the vacuum at idle, while the vacuum advance is plugged into manifold vacuum. I'm guessing you'll see 10 in-hg, which isn't enough to get the full throw of your vac can. That's your 5 degrees of vacuum advance (10 + 5)
Can you then, without the Tee, pull vacuum directly on the vacuum can, with the engine running, and see if you can get a total of 10-12 degrees of vacuum advance (10 + 10or12 = 20 or 22).
When you get to carb tuning, you may find that an adjustment to the idle mixture solves your low idle vacuum.
But in the meantime, you now (again) have a running, driving Corvette. I'm glad to see you are enjoying it!
thanks! I lowered the can until I got what I got. It was actually higher and I believe closer to 19-20. I did that thinking the number was too high because of the post indicating 22 was high. My 3 way T has Transmission headlights and hei on it. I had measured before off the T ANDNIT SHOWED 10-15. I can plug the other two and test again just to see.
I will check vac pressure first report back then tune can up till I get higher compression?
and yet I trudged ahead.
