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Aloha All,
Tonight I decided to fix (Temporarily) the passenger side interior door handle. With no outer handle it was a pain trying to find the wire to pull the handle opening the passenger door.
This is a temp fix, goal is to get the car together and running then make it pretty.
Noticed there is a threaded hole under the handle, which I could put a screw in. Then, drilled a hole in the center of where the handle should be, from here it was just some junk metal to make the connections. It's not pretty, but it will work for now.
Original Broken section Repair side repair Repair front
9/15 update - added 8 - 3/8" bolts to hold the doors, which was fun as each Auto Zone, Pep Boys and Advance auto only has 2-4 in stock.
I have been busy running wires within the car and to the rear lights,
I have the front engine bay all wired up, just installed a column mounted dimmer switch (which was not fun getting adjusted), an pulled new wires through the doors to support the window motors and door pops.
I have one rear light socket that fits the outer light but not the inner. ( I ordered two new outer from Summit) Just don't know what socket to order for the inners, yet)
Found a set of new black seatbelts which should be here next week.
Sorry at work tonight, so no pics.
Its all wire by wire.
Stay safe and have fun.
Aloha All, (7 Oct update)
Wiring is going well, I’m probably 80-90% complete. I still need to run/test wiper motor, power windows, door pops, alternator exciter (ordered wrong 4 wire plug) and interior lights.
Issues/to do:
Power Windows – test relay, find/purchase switches
Wipers - test switch/motor, wiper arms, washer pump/reservoir
As you can see, I have the exterior lights working, need to readjust that column dimmer switch, the gauges work (most) will update pic next time and bought seat belts for a 77 but they won’t fit unfortunately as I don’t have the mounts for them (shoulder in frame nor, back fender mounts opps)
Every week getting closer
Some of the items I am still needing to order purchase are:
Seat Belts – both sides (floor/under seat mounts for 68) (have a pair of 77s for sale)
Front Grills – both sides (with brackets & lights)
Wiper Arms – both
Side Grills – both (with brackets)
Center Grill (with brackets)
Passenger side door latch
Window switches – both
2” transmission shift handle off set
Hood hold down lock latches –both sides and top/bottom
Sun visors – both, niceties
Steering wheel components (tbd) (def horn button, spacer and cap)
Carb Link (Cable to Arm)
License Plate Light
Looks awesome.
Corvette Central should have everything on your list.
I’ve purchased everything on your list from them for my 73.
Good luck and keep us updated!
This weekend, I've been testing circuits, rewired the doors wiring (pops, & power windows) and ran cable for most of the sensor lines (fuel sender, oil pressure, temp, water temp, ect) into the dash area. also started tightening power steering lines and belts. Hopefully soon I will be at a point t bleed the brakes and start it up. I know ya'll like pictures so.
Aloha all, hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving. things have been moving slow but are moving. I have most of the dash in (pictures tomorrow), new hood hold down latches, sun visors and almost all the wiring done just need to finish the wiper motor and waiting for a backup light on order.
here are a few pictures from last night, I have a few holes that I need to research and fill if anyone can shoot me a picture of the areas that I'm missing that would be great. Thanks.,
Karp
tonight I'll finish the dash and hopefully start bleeding the brakes.
Front grill area area missing pieces Side cutouts are there grills for them? Or ill make some later Hood latches not sure what goes here area missing interior pieces area missing interior pieces New hood hold down latch New hood hold down latch Still need to get carb linkage as well
Aloha all,
. My weekend is done, back to work.real.job tonight. Yet here is the latest status, I have power to gauges they seem functional, pass seat is in, and the power steering pump belt is on. Next weekend is definitely brake bleeding time.
Freezing weather and the coldness are making the project go slower that expected. But found a leaking brass distribution block on the front brake, think I have it fixed so added a little fluid and placed some paper towels around the leaking area . I will be checking it every other day till i get off work next week.
Another question when going through stuff, I noticed a rattle in the side pipes, thinking I didn't have them secure, I checked finding a baffle inside, the odd thing is this baffle has a removable handle. I googled it but could not identify the pipe or baffle. Any thoughts? Till next week my friends.
Aloha,
Karp
Freezing weather and the coldness are making the project go slower that expected. But found a leaking brass distribution block on the front brake, think I have it fixed so added a little fluid and placed some paper towels around the leaking area . I will be checking it every other day till i get off work next week.
Another question when going through stuff, I noticed a rattle in the side pipes, thinking I didn't have them secure, I checked finding a baffle inside, the odd thing is this baffle has a removable handle. I googled it but could not identify the pipe or baffle. Any thoughts? Till next week my friends.
Aloha,
Karp
Modified STS baffle? I've read that some folks installed a removal plug or similar on the capped portion of a STS baffle (auger style) to allow free flow down the center tube. It increases flow, but also noise. So you could reinstall the "plug" to quiet it down, but remove it at the track. I'm not sure this is that, but it seems like a similar concept.
Aloha All,
Its been cold lately so working on the Vette is flowing like cold molasses. I put her in the air, replaced the handbrake assemble (plastic handle on original broke), bleed the brakes (I hope all air is out), tightened up the suspension, and put together a simple shift plate. You can see the suspension parts are VBP, too bad they went out of business. Time to buy a gas can and add fuel. I do have a circuit draining power, so that is one downside that I will have to chase soon, but will keep disconnecting te battery until I find it. Shift Plate Draft Shift Plate 1 Shift Plate installed Rear pass Rear VBP Rear VBP 2
When I went to all aftermarket ignition is when my battery drain started. I had something like a .200 milliamp drain on my digital multispark sequential rev limiter and my electronic distributer. I installed one of the key type battery on off switches in the battery compartment. It doubles as a anti theft device. NO more dead battery when the vette sat for weeks on end.
I like what I am seeing here. All of the hard mechanical & bodywork is done!
I do have one safety item and one parts choice concern:
The rear 360# VBP poly spring is a good choice. However it is installed with the spacer on the top of it, and that requires longer spring bolts to adjust the ride height. Your ride height is partly based on trying to fit the tires in the rear fender openings, and partly trying to keep the driveshafts level. Ideal h/s angle is 1/2" high on the inside, so it flattens level under power. I would look closely at the stance and half shaft level. I see long bolts hanging down BELOW the rear tire rim. That is a HUGE safety hazard in case of a flat. At the very least cut off the end of the bolt. Better would be to put the spring spacer underneath the spring, thereby lowering the car. It just needs sorting out.
I have two concerns on the TKO600 choice. First is it is a standard and non-vette model which has the stick shift in the center and not 2 inches offset. Fixing that might work with a 2" curved offset handle, or a center mounted shift plate as you have done. The correct C3 shifter does not just bolt on, it requires machining the trans housing and a whole new shifter pivot box hangs out to the left 2", allowing the shift lever to go straight down into the new pivot point / box assy. Look at the SST site. Second is that is the old version, a TKO, which does not shift cleanly past 6000 rpm, according to what I have read. Based on your motor specs that may not be a good match. The newer TKX box has a vastly improved double-cone carbon synchros which shift cleanly to 7500 rpm. It certainly won't prevent you from getting the car running, but if it shifts balky, at high rpm, it is the trans, and not something else. There were also some shift-fixes available for that trans. Probably no way to tell if that trans already has them or not.
You may want to get more input from GKULL on that. I believe he uses that TKO, and road-races the car with it, and has for many years. I know he sees 7500 rpm often.
Sorry for the long delay it’s been cold lately and life happens.
Aloha Leigh1322,
Thanks for the info/tips. I will have to dive deeper and look into it to make sure all is well before it rolls though the streets. I would not enjoy getting a flat and the rear getting torn off. I temporarily built the center plate from 1/4" plyboard. But once I get the car running, I plan to purchase a “Lokar Performance MSL700 Axishift Bolt-On Orbital Shift Lever Adapter” that hopefully will allow me to align the original console back into place. But making the car pretty will take longer than making it work. I don’t think I’ll ever get it past 6000 RPM, my plan is to make this a summer driver. Back and forth to work, no racing for me.
I did get my seatbelts in on the passenger side so that’s something. Hopefully in the next few weeks I’ll have time to do more. I do thank everyone who have provided positive feedback. This project is a huge project for me, but once it is complete It will be great to cruise in.
