I'm pulling my engine this week. I want to paint it to look as original as possible. I'm thinking some rust-o-leum primer and orange colored paint. But, can it take the heat? I think I remember seeing some paint specifically for engines and other hot spots.

What have you used and how did it hold up?

Thanks

 

I've had good luck with the 500 deg chevy orange engine enamel you can pick up at most auto parts store. However, along the exhaust crossover (just under the carb and choke) in the intake manifold, the temperatures from the heat riser's exhaust exceed 500 deg, and the paint peeled a little bit there. I touched up those two areas on the intake on either side of the carb with 1200 deg. orange paint. It's a little flatter in appearance than the chevy orange enamel, but holds on nicely under those high temps.

 

I used brush-on POR-15 Chevy Orange. Haven't tested it with the engine running yet but is seems very durable. I took a propane torch to it and it didn't flinch. Check out the specs at their site http://www.POR-15.com

 

Len, did you get decent coverage with the POR15 orange? I brushed 5 coats on my block, and you could still see through it, so I gave up and put a top coat of regular Chevy orange spray paint on it. I'm just wondering if I got a bad can, or if everyone has this problem.

 

You know what Joe? I painted over some 500deg spray paint. I didn't like the color or finish.

No, I didn't have any coverage problems Joe. I applied two coats just to be sure. Did you "stir" the pain and not "shake" like it states on the can? :D Nope, I didn't, I shook the can pretty good. It's pretty thick paint, much like the high gloss lead base paints of old.

 

If it were me, i'd clean the block, spray a coat of Hi-temp primer and then the dupi-color chevy hi-temp orange. I think on hot summer days when the engine is really hot the Rusto-leum will begin to cringle and crack. just my 0.02 ;)

 

If you ever need to pull the intake, the better aftermarket gasket kits have a heat block-off plate for this area. I didn't install it and my paint turned jet black at this area.

 

I had the same problem with the por-15. After three coats I could see thru it. The 4th coat finally covered it. I have used por-15 and never had a problem with any of their other products, so I figured I just got a bad can of orange paint. Never did call the company , did you?

 

I am putting new heads on my 69 top flight car and have been researching the most correct engine paint on the NCRS website. I ordered my paint from QuantaProducts.com based on this search. I have not received or used the paint yet, but it is supposed to be the best match to original in color and gloss.

 

I also used POR 15 on my 69 SB. Although it took 3 coats (brushed), it covered well.

I have experienced a couple of "issues" with the paint.

First, I used it to paint the harmonic balancer and although it was very dry when I started up the engine, the balancer spun off paint onto other freshly painted surfaces under and including the hood. Just spattered, but annoying never the less. Secondly, the paint actually browned/burned on the intake manifold where the exhaust gases/heat pass through the manifold. I am told that this is not unusual, so, I am living with it.


Mark

 

Don't use the spray can stuff like Rustoleum or VHT - the stuff is junk, and it does not hold up in the long run. It looks pretty when first sprayed, and it looks fine for the first few thousand miles. It's downhill from there.

My tech paper "Paint Formulas for Restorers" lists all the products you need, with the correct color mixing codes, to put a superb urethane finish on your engine. This stuff holds up forever, cleans up nicely, and it's the right color. If you can't find the paper, drop me an e-mail request and I'll send all the info out to you.

V8astCars@msn.com

Here is the excerpt from the paper dealing with engine paint:

On to the engine. I see guys with nice ‘Vettes using paint out of a cheap spray can that they bought at the local parts store. People with nice ‘Vettes who use spray can paint on their engines should be charged with Vette-abuse, and sentenced to restore Honda Civics for life. If you want your engine to look perfect, to be the perfect, correct color, and to have a durable, lasting finish and shine, you want to shoot it with Delstar catalyzed urethane enamel. Here is the factory-correct color code and the whole mixing formula:

PPG Delstar Chevy Engine Orange, DAR #60524 H
Mixing Formula (1 qt, cummulative):
DMR 400 4.0 units
DMR 405 160.0 units
DMR 464 660 units
DXR 495 680 units
DMR 499 1250 units

Mix the paint 8:6:1 Delstar/DTR601 Reducer/DXR80 Catalyst and shoot it with a paint gun. If you have a new engine back from the machine shop and it’s bare metal, prime the entire engine, block, heads, etc. with PPG DP40LF Epoxy Primer mixed 2:1 with DP402LF Catalyst. You won’t believe how good it will look.

[Modified by lars, 12:09 PM 1/19/2004]


[Modified by lars, 12:09 PM 1/19/2004]


[Modified by lars, 12:11 PM 1/19/2004]

 

I'd like to restore my engine 454/365 Hp for my 1971 C3 and need detailed information about the colours since I would be interested to get a factory style aspect even if this means to disassemble the engine.

Spraying everything (pulleys, pumps, etc.) with red colour is the easy way but not the one I wanted.

If you can help me in gathering information, it will be a great thing.

Best regards, Renzo

 

Hi Renzo,
Probably the best source of accurate information about engine orange is found in the Engine Section of the Assembly Instruction Manual.

The reason for this is that the parts of the engine like the carburetor, starter, some pulleys, fuel pump, some brackets, etc, were added to complete the engine in St. Louis. These parts are therefore NOT engine orange.

So if you go through the engine section, and other relevant sections, you'll gain an understanding of what WAS painted in Tonawanda on big blocks like yours, and at Flint on small block engines.

Regards,
Alan

Quite a nice bb. (Please disregard the arrow)

 

you guys are spraying on way too much paint,,i always wipe the block down with laquer thinner,let sit 1hr,then using chevy orange[yes in a spray can] I put on 2-3 coats,trying not to put it on too thick on any factory castings/stampings,but getting full coverage on the whole thing


and alan,whens the c3 color picture book coming out,at $99.95[heck even $199.95,its worth its weight in gold] per book its cheap

 

Not everyone is into the NCRS 'perfection' thing or feels the need to go to the trouble and expense of buying the actual paint used at the factory 40+ years ago. For those that do, great!

If you want to use spray can paint, be aware that there are TWO colors of Chevy [orange] engine paint: for early (1955/56) 265 engines, they have a "Chevy engine Red-Orange" colored paint that has more red than the later "Chevy engine orange" paint.

Just so you know....

 

Look at the experts web site on engine paint: EASTWOOD.
1. can of prep (degreaser)
2. can of hi temp primer (fills in pores)
3. Chevy orange in ceramic (brush or spray)

Very professional looking and durable. You don't have to worry about gas, oil, heat, anti-freeze, brake fluid, PS fluid, etc, destroying your paint job.

 

How big of a sin would it be for me to change my 1973 engine from orange to blue?

The car has a blue interior and I think it would tie everything together to make the switch.

 

Hi B,
The choice is certainly yours to make.
The colors are known a Chevy Orange and Corporate Blue.
The change to blue was made so ANY ENGINE GM produced could be used in ANY CAR LINE they produced.
Regards,
Alan

 

A little tidbit - Chevy painted the blocks orange so to locate oil leaks better. At least that is what I was told by a friends father that was a Chevy engineer back in the day. True or not I'm not sure but he did work for Chevy so who am I to dispute it.

 

I would say paint your engine any color you want....don't worry about any of the NCRS types, they don't judge anyone's choices with Corvettes.