Ok so I looked at the schematic linked in one of the above posts, and my advice is to absolutely cut the wire within a few inches of the relay and not somewhere else. The issue is if you cut under the hood and on the wrong side of splice (228 or 208 I cant quite see clearly in the pic) then your just going to short your headlight circuit. So don't chance it.

 

Alright then. Sounds like I'm in for some upside down time under the dash.

I'll get snaps. Can't wait to see the LEDs in action.

 

OK. I don't follow this line of thought.

Problem: High beam comes on when you hit the fog lights.
Solution: Wire a bulb to fake the circuit or get under the dash and rewire.

This problem occurs when you put in the LED bulbs. To do that, you have to take the old bulb out and plug the new bulb in. For $20, I can have the resistor put INLINE between the bulb and harness. Plug on end of the resistor to the harness and the other to the bulb. What is the reason for going under the dash to wire stuff up again?

 

I don't need both driving (fog) lights on at the same time the high beams are on but grounding the relay instead of stock (going through high beam filament) allows driving (fog) lights to come on with high beams if you choose.

 

If you guys want I can scan the schematic diagram that I modded tonight after work and try to post it.
It is for a 1996 Vette but I am sure it will cover several years.

 

Real Problem: Fogs don't work at all with LED HL.

I would rather properly ground the fogs without placing an additional load on the system.

Save the $20 for beer.

 

So currently, even with the stock system, you run high beams, it cuts off the fog lights, right? What you want to do is be able to run BOTH high beams AND fog lights? If so isolating the circuit will do that.

 

I think most folks just want to avoid the bs associated with additional resistors and other assorted crap such as a marker light bulb.

 

I didn't want the bulb either. I had CorvetteHID bulbs and something was wrong where it kept going off and on when bouncing so I gave up and got rid of it all when I couldn't get a hold of Yossi to fix the wiring on the other one like he did previously. When I saw the resistor that was P&P, I bought it and made it work.

If I had to choose between the bulb and working out a ground, probably work out the ground.

 

Agreed.

 

I have what I want now with the LED headlights and grounding the driving (fog) light relay. Driving (fog) lights operate low beam or high beam.
Everything is great with this setup.
I just didn't need to use the resistors by grounding the relay!
I am also taking advantage of the lower power consumption from the LED headlights by not using the load resistors.

 

OK. Just wanted to understand. So if you are trying to take advantage of the lower power consumption and to be able to run high beams AND fog lights, you are correct. There is probably no other way. Even if you used the old incandescent light bulbs, you still will not be able to get both high beams and fog lights on WITHOUT grounding the relay and pretty much isolating the fog light circuit so it can't be set the way the factory did which is "You choose fog lights or high beams. Not both.". Fair enough

 

I refer to the fog lights as driving lights, fog lights used to be an amber not white color back in the day but moving on.
From the factory stock on my '96 model when you press the fog light switch the fog light relay (D) will energize as long as the high beams of the headlight are not on. Since the circuit uses the filament of the high beam to complete the ground to the fog light relay, when the high beam is on the fog light relay loses it's ground hence no fog lights.
Now we go ahead and install LED headlights, well guess what we just lost the filaments because it is now a diode (the filament has a very low resistance which is what the relay needed to energize a diode will not work)! The relay just lost it's ground path and no fog lights.

This is the modification: I attached the schematics.
Locate the relay which is at the bottom right side of the instrument panel in a relay retainer. The relay is Relay D in the shop manual. I found the light green wire going to D2 on the fog lamp relay. I cut this wire (left about 2 inches on the relay side) I then took a piece of 20AWG wire and spliced it to the 2 inch wire on the relay side. I soldered and used heat shrink tubing on the splice. The other end of that 20AWG wire got a ring terminal crimped onto it. I located a piece of metal near the fuse box that already had a screw with a ring terminal under it that was ground. I removed the screw and installed the relay ring terminal and the existing ring terminal under the screw.
I went back and installed a piece of heat shrink tubing over the exposed cut end that comes from S208 "A"( you could use electrical tape too) so that nothing will short out.
Making the above modification with LED headlights installed allows the normal use of the headlights. The fog lights now operate independently of the headlights.

 

Are the JW Speaker lights plug and play?

 

Based on what I see of the others, I don't think so. Either put the resistor or modify the circuit to have a ground or put the Circuit Doctor fix.

 

Love it ... The way it should have been all along.

 

On my porch when I got home from work. Minimalist generic boxes, but the lights look good.

I decided to see how they work without making any modifications. Seems like all is well.

Photos show unboxing, installation, low beams with and without fogs, high beams only, low beam pattern on garage.

 

Right on !!

 

This morning I whipped out my handy Hoppy's headlight aiming tool from the 80's - made of pure unobtainium - properly aimed the new LEDs and put the buckets back on.

 

These are LED? Interesting if they are since they maybe incorporate a resistor or there already is enough resistance.