When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here is an update. With a little help from Pete K. I fixed my tranny shifting problem and hit the the track today.
My times were the best I have seen. Previous best was 14.32. Since then I added a shift improver kit, 1.6:1 roller tip rockers and put my cat back on the car. Today I ran a best of 13.908 and a worst of 13.962.
The car is running perfectly and I am ecstatic.
Funny you should say that Rick.
I actually have a 2400 stall torque converter sitting in my garage that I wasn't going to have put on until I solved my tranny problems.
I also have a set of Marchs underdrive pulleys.
After that I'm pretty sure I'll need tires for the track.
Headers are a lot of money for good ones but I see them in my future as well. Not this year though. Of course, then there is the intake...it never really ends does it?
Funny you should say that Rick.
I actually have a 2400 stall torque converter sitting in my garage that I wasn't going to have put on until I solved my tranny problems.
I also have a set of Marchs underdrive pulleys.
After that I'm pretty sure I'll need tires for the track.
Headers are a lot of money for good ones but I see them in my future as well. Not this year though. Of course, then there is the intake...it never really ends does it?
Sounds like you've got Paid for parts to begin with. Call me cheap-or whatever, but I'd just get some hookers or Hedmans, I'm not into coated or stainless-cause they're just more money than I care to spend for them-and they don't increase performance-hell, I can put two sets of Hookers on for the price of stainless. But I personally think headers are alot of bang for the bucks.
I believe you about the headers that's why I mentioned them.
The 2149s are likely what I will end up getting.
You never know when your not looking for them sometimes they just cross your path for the right price.
WOW I just read your whole deal because on my 1990 Im going through the same thing--glad you found your leak--Did your motor rev up with the propane trick. I have used propane till I thought the garage would blow up but I still cant find the leak.I suspect there is one because the motor rpms go up and down even with the IAC disconnected. Any other leak detecting tricks you know of??
Mudslide, one of the biggest tricks to using propane is don't open it up to far,use the torch head to scan the vac. line, you don't want the whole engine compartment full of propane. You can also use WD40, but it's messy. Some shops use the smoke test-now that's the one I'd like to be able to use.Haven't seen it done-but I imagine you can actually see the smoke being sucked into the leak.
Funny you should say that Rick.
I actually have a 2400 stall torque converter sitting in my garage that I wasn't going to have put on until I solved my tranny problems.
I also have a set of Marchs underdrive pulleys.
After that I'm pretty sure I'll need tires for the track.
Headers are a lot of money for good ones but I see them in my future as well. Not this year though. Of course, then there is the intake...it never really ends does it?
For me, it ended when I broke the car 5 weeks in a row at the track. When they suck every dollar from you and you are competely disgusted, then it will stop
Modding a vette is like making love to a gorilla. It ain't over till the gorilla says its over!
For me, it ended when I broke the car 5 weeks in a row at the track. When they suck every dollar from you and you are competely disgusted, then it will stop
Modding a vette is like making love to a gorilla. It ain't over till the gorilla says its over!
That's priceless, I've never heard that gorilla quote before.
Wiat my girlfriend calls me a gorilla. I always thought it was because i was 300lbs and drag my knuckles when i walk.
Mud, the propane did rev my engine. Then I used WD40 to confirm that I found something and to pinpoint the specific location. The WD40 revs up the engine as well.
I was starting to winder about all the propane I was using too and had actually stopped a couple of times but kept going back at it until the leak was found.
Have you done any work on your car? Usually the last thing you worked on is the first thing to check.
I changed the flywheel and clutch but no motor work. Then to try and get it to run I cleaned the TB and IAC adjusted min idle and checked the TPS. Then I checked the cap and rotor and ohmed the wires--the rotor was a mess--Dont know if you saw the pic I posted , the rotor looked like someone stuck it with 115 volts,thought I had it there but it was no better. Yesterday I was playing with it and noticed it was now skipping steadily all the way up through the rpms--only seems good when you hit the throttle fast. I just read in a nother thread that the ac delco plugs where junk--which is what I put in last year,so I guess Ill try that next--pass. side is a pain in the butt. I might as well put wires on it to while im in there--Does anyone have any ideas on which pulgs and wires work well in a 1990 l98 only mod is flowmaster mufflers. Thanks in advance for your help guys
Mudslide, I've always had good luck with ACDelcos. I didn't see your pics. I'd pull that dist. and check for play, and replace the bushing. My dist. in my 350 boat motor was really screwed, the rotor was actually hitting cap connections basically on one side of the cap, lots of brass shavings. Just like anything else in our older motors-distrbutors bushings do wear out.So, you may need to shim and bush.
As far as wires go-I've had good luck with the Beldens from NAPPA.
thanks Ill check in to the wires , I have ac's in there now it came with ngk's but they where way to hot. I have been hearing in other posts that they dont like the ac plugs. I allways used ac it all my old chevys because they were the only plug that would not foul out with the big cams when you were idleing around. I am going to pull the plugs tonite Ill let you know how they look---This skip is driving me to
Took the plugs out --ac delcos--they are as white as the day I put them in--dont know if that is good or bad--in the old days that would be bad,plug should be light brown--took a pic of them but the computer at home is a turtle--I will show to you at work tomarrow --pure white--ohmed the wires again ,all at 5 to 6 k except 1 is 9000 and #6 seams to jump around from 5 to 14 k depending on which way its bent--wierd--#6 plug looks just like the rest. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge but thought I would change the filter anyway--with the 1990 vert you have to take off the cross members to get at it--is there anything easy about these cars except spending money on them?
Sounds like your getting there Mudslide.
When I last checked my plugs they were tan. The white plugs does tell me lean but without seeing the plugs it's hard to say for sure.
Let us know how you make out with the new wires.
http://img424.imageshack.us/my.php?i...m0003944tt.jpg here they are after two summers, not a great pic but you get the message, they look to lean. They are the ACs the owners manual specs. What could cause them to be so lean--not just one but all of them. Thanks guys
It's hard to see in the pictures, they look like they may have some colour but it could also be a shadow.
They do look a little lean but it's hard to say how lean.
Maybe you have fixed that problem by repairing the distributor.
Are you able to scan your car while you drive it with a labtop and software like datamaster?
This may help see what the computer sees.