Budget 2-row radiator comparison
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Wholly chit Greg.....................Lit the fire under more than 1 *** in the last 24 hours with your Budget Champion aluminum radiator swap.
I would go watch some TV for a while & let them get bored without you commenting back.
When I get tired of C4 I watch COP TV shows.....they are my favorite.
Purchase a used ford Taurus electric fan like BOB did for his 87 coupe.
supposed to be the hot ticket for the C4 L98 TPI single electric main cooling fan.
Hook up a toggle bypass switch & 50 amp relay for you fan.
Work it manual when desired.
how I have it set on my 87 vert & it keeps the temps down when at Mickey "D's" drive through or in traffic.
195 F guaranteed with a 195 Napa "T" stat I use.
Your 89 is no exotic Ferrari car.
a toggle switch is easy to hide under the driver's side upper hush panel.
Brian
I would go watch some TV for a while & let them get bored without you commenting back.
When I get tired of C4 I watch COP TV shows.....they are my favorite.
Purchase a used ford Taurus electric fan like BOB did for his 87 coupe.
supposed to be the hot ticket for the C4 L98 TPI single electric main cooling fan.
Hook up a toggle bypass switch & 50 amp relay for you fan.
Work it manual when desired.
how I have it set on my 87 vert & it keeps the temps down when at Mickey "D's" drive through or in traffic.
195 F guaranteed with a 195 Napa "T" stat I use.
Your 89 is no exotic Ferrari car.
a toggle switch is easy to hide under the driver's side upper hush panel.
Brian
I'll have to remember your fan suggestion (as one option) if I decide to go down that road.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 694
Likes: 27
From: St James New York
I'd be inclined to agree. Funny how the guy that spends the MOST will squeel the loudest, not about what he paid, about how little YOU paid....He has to justify his bad deal somehow.
When someone feels the need to insult someone elses choices, it begs to question the motive...
trying to reassure themselves that spending more was better, or that their choices are better because they think they are better? Either way...its BS.
No sometimes you just may get what you pay for!
The focus should be on what the problem is, not what someone would like it to be.....
Having one of these "cheap, made in China" radiators myself.....that was made in Chicago,
and installed for just over a yr now, I can tell you that I compared it side by saide to the DW and there is NO difference. If we had not leaned them each on their boxes they came in I would not have known which was which.
You keep telling yourself there is some difference, and I'll go to bed tonite knowing the truth. There IS a difference...about $250 ! !
$250.00 is really not alot of money especially when you may have spent 40~50 times that on a 383 performance motor that produces alot of unwanted heat. Think about it.
My cheapo has less mfg overhead than DW or the other guys, so it can be sold for less and the vol sales make up for the fire-sale price. They sell so many they are back ordered half the time..
The cores are all mfg by someone else, welded together by who we decided to buy from,. and the tanks are maybe the ONLY thing thats actually made by our chosen seller.....I guess my tanks were either bigger than a big-name or they were thicker since I DID have to trim the rubber to fit it....damn. Or could it be that the big name part is smaller, and maybe holds 4 oz less coolant just so the owner does not have to risk amputation while trimming the rubber?
Your tanks were neither bigger or thicker, they were just not made to fit in a Corvette's OEM location like a DeWitts drop in. The "feet" of your cheap, made in China unit don't fit in the isolators like an OEM or DeWitts radiator. DeWitts also includes (4) wider rubber isolators so you don't have to hack up your thinner OEM isolators for the cheap made in China radiator you love so much. That means you can always go back to the OEM radiator and non hacked up isolators if you choose too.
I was extremely dissappointed at the 2 minutes that it took me to snip 1/4" off the rubber mounting block in order to make my made in China (Chicago) mfg'd radiator fit in the mounts. I was ALSO very put out and bummed by the new cap, the chain,the new low coolant sensor, the full PLATE trans cooler instead of the candy *** 5/8" tube that comes in the (local made in the USA big name) radiator, and the welds that looked like they were poured in place with barely a ripple to ID them as welds....I was so pissed about the $250 that I did'nt HAVE to spend on paying the marketing and advertising that I kept it and left it in my pocket. Damn.
ALL that money I could have paid to some mfg that had to raise his sales price to cover the cost of advertising in every medium (web, mags, radio etc) in the country.... or some other over-priced store that basically had to pay their huge advertising budget for the identical product, all just so I could justify tossing money like I actually had some to throw away.
NOW...
All BS aside,
When someone makes a choice, why would anyone condem that with cheap shots at the product or the choice? Especially when those slinging the most BS have absolutely ZERO experience with the alternative...that I am using as well....
When you sling that much BS around, some is bound to get on you....
I'm not condeming anybody, even you, like I said before, sometimes you get what you pay for...... And if your happy w/your purchase I'm happy for you! I've had way too much experience with cheap made in China auto parts .... especially cheap made in China radiators with a lifetime warantee. Thats why I went w/ a DeWitts radiator in the first place! Is it worth it when you have to replace that cheap unit in a few years because it failed. Think about it. I only want to do this job once!
My (China made) POS cheap radiator dropped my temps LAST summer from 240 to just 210-220....This yr the temps are just as good and the ambient is 10-15 degrees higher. I can cruise at 189-195 with a/c all day long when its 105 degrees ambient with street surface temps of 140.I sit in traffic at 220 now, in these worst of conditions instead of 245 and climbing like it used to.
So....I guess I am to conclude that MY purchase of a cheapo
Chinese made (in Chicago) radiator for less than 1/2 of the guy with the BIG advertising overhead, was such a bad idea that I should'nt mention it to anyone. When in fact I've known at least 6 or 7 other C4 owners that bought the same radiator and had the exact same results. A couple LT guys...
a few L98 guys. Same result. About a 20 degree drop (with no other cooling mods) and much much faster cooling and lower over-all operating temps.
When someone feels the need to insult someone elses choices, it begs to question the motive...
trying to reassure themselves that spending more was better, or that their choices are better because they think they are better? Either way...its BS.
No sometimes you just may get what you pay for!
The focus should be on what the problem is, not what someone would like it to be.....
Having one of these "cheap, made in China" radiators myself.....that was made in Chicago,
and installed for just over a yr now, I can tell you that I compared it side by saide to the DW and there is NO difference. If we had not leaned them each on their boxes they came in I would not have known which was which.You keep telling yourself there is some difference, and I'll go to bed tonite knowing the truth. There IS a difference...about $250 ! !
$250.00 is really not alot of money especially when you may have spent 40~50 times that on a 383 performance motor that produces alot of unwanted heat. Think about it.
My cheapo has less mfg overhead than DW or the other guys, so it can be sold for less and the vol sales make up for the fire-sale price. They sell so many they are back ordered half the time..
The cores are all mfg by someone else, welded together by who we decided to buy from,. and the tanks are maybe the ONLY thing thats actually made by our chosen seller.....I guess my tanks were either bigger than a big-name or they were thicker since I DID have to trim the rubber to fit it....damn. Or could it be that the big name part is smaller, and maybe holds 4 oz less coolant just so the owner does not have to risk amputation while trimming the rubber?
Your tanks were neither bigger or thicker, they were just not made to fit in a Corvette's OEM location like a DeWitts drop in. The "feet" of your cheap, made in China unit don't fit in the isolators like an OEM or DeWitts radiator. DeWitts also includes (4) wider rubber isolators so you don't have to hack up your thinner OEM isolators for the cheap made in China radiator you love so much. That means you can always go back to the OEM radiator and non hacked up isolators if you choose too.
I was extremely dissappointed at the 2 minutes that it took me to snip 1/4" off the rubber mounting block in order to make my made in China (Chicago) mfg'd radiator fit in the mounts. I was ALSO very put out and bummed by the new cap, the chain,the new low coolant sensor, the full PLATE trans cooler instead of the candy *** 5/8" tube that comes in the (local made in the USA big name) radiator, and the welds that looked like they were poured in place with barely a ripple to ID them as welds....I was so pissed about the $250 that I did'nt HAVE to spend on paying the marketing and advertising that I kept it and left it in my pocket. Damn.
ALL that money I could have paid to some mfg that had to raise his sales price to cover the cost of advertising in every medium (web, mags, radio etc) in the country.... or some other over-priced store that basically had to pay their huge advertising budget for the identical product, all just so I could justify tossing money like I actually had some to throw away.
NOW...
All BS aside,
When someone makes a choice, why would anyone condem that with cheap shots at the product or the choice? Especially when those slinging the most BS have absolutely ZERO experience with the alternative...that I am using as well....
When you sling that much BS around, some is bound to get on you....
I'm not condeming anybody, even you,
like I said before, sometimes you get what you pay for...... And if your happy w/your purchase I'm happy for you! I've had way too much experience with cheap made in China auto parts .... especially cheap made in China radiators with a lifetime warantee. Thats why I went w/ a DeWitts radiator in the first place! Is it worth it when you have to replace that cheap unit in a few years because it failed. Think about it. I only want to do this job once!My (China made) POS cheap radiator dropped my temps LAST summer from 240 to just 210-220....This yr the temps are just as good and the ambient is 10-15 degrees higher. I can cruise at 189-195 with a/c all day long when its 105 degrees ambient with street surface temps of 140.I sit in traffic at 220 now, in these worst of conditions instead of 245 and climbing like it used to.
So....I guess I am to conclude that MY purchase of a cheapo
Chinese made (in Chicago) radiator for less than 1/2 of the guy with the BIG advertising overhead, was such a bad idea that I should'nt mention it to anyone. When in fact I've known at least 6 or 7 other C4 owners that bought the same radiator and had the exact same results. A couple LT guys...
a few L98 guys. Same result. About a 20 degree drop (with no other cooling mods) and much much faster cooling and lower over-all operating temps.
Last edited by mako41; Aug 16, 2011 at 12:16 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Unless your data logging the front ECM coolant temp gauge, you'll be seeing cylinder head temp from the passenger side sender. That is not a good indication of what the thermostat is doing.
For example mine with a 160° 'stat reads 165° when I data log and look at that front intake sender. My instrument panel shows 185° from the passenger side head sender.
For example mine with a 160° 'stat reads 165° when I data log and look at that front intake sender. My instrument panel shows 185° from the passenger side head sender.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
What did your C4 Champion radiator cost without shipping Greg ?
I skimmed through all posts including yours, never caught that.
I may try the same yet too.
I would like to do the NASCAR trick welding 2 of them together back to back.
Double the BTU heat discharge capacity in theory.
I don't mind fabrication work.
If the price is right,
then its affordable also for me.
BR
I skimmed through all posts including yours, never caught that.
I may try the same yet too.
I would like to do the NASCAR trick welding 2 of them together back to back.
Double the BTU heat discharge capacity in theory.
I don't mind fabrication work.
If the price is right,
then its affordable also for me.
BR
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
I was fine cutting/customizing my already custom 1989. I've done it before and have already done it since. Saving that much money for an unemployed guy was quite worthwhile. I am willing to replace it IF it ever becomes necessary. Just as I'm willing to do a tune-up when it's time for that.
I didn't see you contributed anything worthwhile to my thread.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Yes, the coolant comes out of the front of the block, through the thermostat and into the top of the radiator. The ECM temp sender is also at the front of the block so it measures the temp of the coolant coming out of the thermostat. The temp sender for the dash gauge is on the right side of the block, high near the cylinder head and it measures coolant that is receiving much more heat and it cools down some by mixing with coolant from lower in the block going to the front of the engine and out through the thermostat. You should always see a lower temp at the ECM than you do from your dash gauge.
Last edited by jfb; Aug 16, 2011 at 12:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
What did your C4 Champion radiator cost without shipping Greg ?
I skimmed through all posts including yours, never caught that.
I may try the same yet too.
I would like to do the NASCAR trick welding 2 of them together back to back.
Double the BTU heat discharge capacity in theory.
I don't mind fabrication work.
If the price is right,
then its affordable also for me.
BR
I skimmed through all posts including yours, never caught that.
I may try the same yet too.
I would like to do the NASCAR trick welding 2 of them together back to back.
Double the BTU heat discharge capacity in theory.
I don't mind fabrication work.
If the price is right,
then its affordable also for me.
BR
I kinda posted the price in post #1. It was $170 shipped. I may go back and modify post #1 to include links to other owners threads that own the other brands mentioned. IIRC, leesvet bought the ECP brand. Since his thread didn't include pics, maybe he would like to comment on their build quality vs Champion?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Yes, the coolant comes out of the front of the block, through the thermostat and into the top of the radiator. The ECM temp sender is also at the front of the block so it measure the temp of the coolant coming out of the thermostat. The temp sender for the dash gauge is on the right side of the block, high near the cylinder head and it measures coolant that is receiving much more heat and it cools down some by mixing with coolant from lower in the block going to the front of the engine and out through the thermostat. You should always see a lower temp at the ECM than you do from your dash gauge.
When they redesigned and built the LT motors, they (obviously) reversed flow to get the cooler water going in the top, closer to the heads.
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
What did your C4 Champion radiator cost without shipping Greg ?
I skimmed through all posts including yours, never caught that.
I may try the same yet too.
I would like to do the NASCAR trick welding 2 of them together back to back.
Double the BTU heat discharge capacity in theory.
I don't mind fabrication work.
If the price is right,
then its affordable also for me.
BR
I skimmed through all posts including yours, never caught that.
I may try the same yet too.
I would like to do the NASCAR trick welding 2 of them together back to back.
Double the BTU heat discharge capacity in theory.
I don't mind fabrication work.
If the price is right,
then its affordable also for me.
BR
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
I'm guessing you deleted your A/C if you'll have room for two radiators?
I kinda posted the price in post #1. It was $170 shipped. I may go back and modify post #1 to include links to other owners threads that own the other brands mentioned. IIRC, leesvet bought the ECP brand. Since his thread didn't include pics, maybe he would like to comment on their build quality vs Champion?
I kinda posted the price in post #1. It was $170 shipped. I may go back and modify post #1 to include links to other owners threads that own the other brands mentioned. IIRC, leesvet bought the ECP brand. Since his thread didn't include pics, maybe he would like to comment on their build quality vs Champion?
Depends how hard & get hit with the drag racing bug in the future too.
I have to always drive to the track(s).
No trailer here.
That fiberglass radiator box can be cut apart too & put back together with fiberglass cloth & resin.
Sand it down smooth & paint it flat black or semi gloss black.
$170 each is a decent price.
Less than $400 for a pair.
There is alot of good info in your thread Greg.
Any thread written by you or myself & commented on becomes memorable. LOL
Brian
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Thank you. That's compares to Aardwolf's post. So, why wouldn't the hottest fluid temps be seen as it exits the motor and heads back into the radiator? That part seems backwards to me.
When they redesigned and built the LT motors, they (obviously) reversed flow to get the cooler water going in the top, closer to the heads.
When they redesigned and built the LT motors, they (obviously) reversed flow to get the cooler water going in the top, closer to the heads.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
the photos I seen in the past,
NASCAR cuts one complete side off of each side tank from both radiators.
then TIG welds them together shut.
So an aftermarket pair of aluminum 2- row radiators becomes a True 4- Row single pass giant radiator.
There is "0" air gap between the 2 radiators viewing from the outside.
It was shown on an old NAPA flier about 10 years ago that gets distributed to mechanics & small shops.
Sorry, I don't have that flier no longer.
otherwise I would have posted it on C4 already.
It was the neatest setup for a racing radiator I have ever seen.
Simple & ingenious.
Might look a bit strange with 2 radiator caps.........but oh well.
BR
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 694
Likes: 27
From: St James New York
If you're not trying to "condemn" someone for buying an American-designed/Chinese-made radiator, why pop into a budget radiator thread and tout your higher-priced purchase? Maybe just bragging or shooting a plug? Shall we call is SPAM?
You assume too much. Nothing guarantees these radiators will fail in a couple of years. I bought an all-alum radiator from one of these vendors several years ago. It outlasted that Jeep. And, FWIW, changing a radiator in these cars is no harder than doing a tune-up.
I was fine cutting/customizing my already custom 1989. I've done it before and have already done it since. Saving that much money for an unemployed guy was quite worthwhile. I am willing to replace it IF it ever becomes necessary. Just as I'm willing to do a tune-up when it's time for that.
I didn't see you contributed anything worthwhile to my thread.
You assume too much. Nothing guarantees these radiators will fail in a couple of years. I bought an all-alum radiator from one of these vendors several years ago. It outlasted that Jeep. And, FWIW, changing a radiator in these cars is no harder than doing a tune-up.
I was fine cutting/customizing my already custom 1989. I've done it before and have already done it since. Saving that much money for an unemployed guy was quite worthwhile. I am willing to replace it IF it ever becomes necessary. Just as I'm willing to do a tune-up when it's time for that.
I didn't see you contributed anything worthwhile to my thread.
I just posted my solution to excessive C4 coolant temps. Maybe others might like the discussion more than you. I haven't condemed anybody, but I have had lots of experience w/ cheap made in China radiators and maybe my bad experiences w/them may save someone else the headaches. They all failed, by the way, in 3 years or less. Didn't outlast my Jeep! Maybe yours will last forever. Good luck! As it stands right now you appear to not be satisfied w/ your Chinese made radiator install and the running temps your experiencing. Hmmm!
It took me about 4 hours to R/R my OEM radiator. I like to clean everything real good when I remove parts that have been together for over 20 years. 20 year old parts tend to be very brittle and I will only do this job once!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
Well sorry you don't feel I contributed anything worthwhile to "your thread".
I just posted my solution to excessive C4 coolant temps. Maybe others might like the discussion more than you. I haven't condemed anybody, but I have had lots of experience w/ cheap made in China radiators and maybe my bad experiences w/them may save someone else the headaches. They all failed, by the way, in 3 years or less. Didn't outlast my Jeep! Maybe yours will last forever. Good luck! As it stands right now you appear to not be satisfied w/ your Chinese made radiator install and the running temps your experiencing. Hmmm!
It took me about 4 hours to R/R my OEM radiator. I like to clean everything real good when I remove parts that have been together for over 20 years. 20 year old parts tend to be very brittle and I will only do this job once!
I just posted my solution to excessive C4 coolant temps. Maybe others might like the discussion more than you. I haven't condemed anybody, but I have had lots of experience w/ cheap made in China radiators and maybe my bad experiences w/them may save someone else the headaches. They all failed, by the way, in 3 years or less. Didn't outlast my Jeep! Maybe yours will last forever. Good luck! As it stands right now you appear to not be satisfied w/ your Chinese made radiator install and the running temps your experiencing. Hmmm!
It took me about 4 hours to R/R my OEM radiator. I like to clean everything real good when I remove parts that have been together for over 20 years. 20 year old parts tend to be very brittle and I will only do this job once!
I don't recall if they make 1 for a C4 or not.
Top of the line aluminum high performance radiator will cost $650 to over $1,000.
The Volkswagon Scirraco tiny radiator is still a cheap favorite with drag racers.
Takes the excess weight off the front end of a race car.
You only get 1 10 second or quicker full throttle pass before things get hot on You with that tiny radiator.
most drag strips have a garden hose by the weigh in scales to cool the radiator off anyhow if you wish to do so.
BR
Last edited by 87 vette 81 big girl; Aug 16, 2011 at 12:56 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Just went for another spin
After reprogramming my fans according to the temps observed from my scans, temperatures performed as planned.
I programmed turn on at 196 and turn off at 190. According to the cylinder head sensor, my [dash] temps ran between 195 and 209. (209 is the temp with the intake sensor must have seen 196.) With the fans programmed like this temps rose about 1-deg every 30-seconds when idling. When the main fan turned on, they dropped about 1-deg every 15-seconds. The main fan turned back off when expected. So, it would appear the main fan is up to the task.
Now I can leave my car idling w/o worrying about overheating. And, that's within 10-deg of the range I was shooting for based on Vizzard's chart. Depending on which sensor you look at, it's right in that range. That, I can live with.
Unless I replace my aux fan switch (again), that fan may end up running most of the time. But, that fan isn't very loud or distracting.
I programmed turn on at 196 and turn off at 190. According to the cylinder head sensor, my [dash] temps ran between 195 and 209. (209 is the temp with the intake sensor must have seen 196.) With the fans programmed like this temps rose about 1-deg every 30-seconds when idling. When the main fan turned on, they dropped about 1-deg every 15-seconds. The main fan turned back off when expected. So, it would appear the main fan is up to the task.
Now I can leave my car idling w/o worrying about overheating. And, that's within 10-deg of the range I was shooting for based on Vizzard's chart. Depending on which sensor you look at, it's right in that range. That, I can live with.
Unless I replace my aux fan switch (again), that fan may end up running most of the time. But, that fan isn't very loud or distracting.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
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From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Nope, wrong again. My issue was understand the sensors and getting the fans programmed correctly. I thought I was pretty clear that I had a temperature issue unrelated to the radiator? First I thought is was the stat itself, then found out the temp sensors don't match. With a bit of (easy) reprogramming, it works as desired.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
Nope, wrong again. My issue was understand the sensors and getting the fans programmed correctly. I thought I was pretty clear that I had a temperature issue unrelated to the radiator? First I thought is was the stat itself, then found out the temp sensors don't match. With a bit of (easy) reprogramming, it works as desired.
I like a toggle switch yet.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 82
From: Toronto ontario
But, you are barking up the wrong tree by pointing that argument at me. That's because you aren't telling me anything I don't know.
I am completely aware that a lower stat won't lower my upper temps. But it will allow lower, low-end temps. I wanted a lower thermostat to lower temps so my fans don't run all the time. I have a rebuilt, modified 383 engine with higher compression. (Maybe you don't have the view signature option enabled?)
I know exactly what I want and why.
I am completely aware that a lower stat won't lower my upper temps. But it will allow lower, low-end temps. I wanted a lower thermostat to lower temps so my fans don't run all the time. I have a rebuilt, modified 383 engine with higher compression. (Maybe you don't have the view signature option enabled?)
I know exactly what I want and why.
You are a piece of work. You just quoted how/why I decided the sensors didn't need to read the same, yet you post like I can't figure that out. You read with emotion, not with logic. You are obviously pissed/defensive because you didn't "get this one right".
What I'm doing in this thread is not worrying. I am having to defend myself against a few curious and a few know-it-alls. Thinking that I'm worrying is just another indication of reading comprehension issues you have. Actually, I just think you enjoy jumping on the thermostat issue every chance you get. Try a new subject for a change.
What I'm doing in this thread is not worrying. I am having to defend myself against a few curious and a few know-it-alls. Thinking that I'm worrying is just another indication of reading comprehension issues you have. Actually, I just think you enjoy jumping on the thermostat issue every chance you get. Try a new subject for a change.
If you're not trying to "condemn" someone for buying an American-designed/Chinese-made radiator, why pop into a budget radiator thread and tout your higher-priced purchase? Maybe just bragging or shooting a plug? Shall we call is SPAM?
I didn't see you contributed anything worthwhile to my thread.
I didn't see you contributed anything worthwhile to my thread.
You flame people for telling you something thats of no interest to you or the thread then you kiss others behinds that bought budget radiators LIKE YOU. Seriously?
Its a cool thread even though I dont like your attitude I think there's nothing wrong with comparing a budget rad to an expensive one. I actually thought the pics at first were of a dewitt or becool etc.
Like spark plugs a lot of people fail to consider the old removed product might not be working anywhere near peak efficiency. My last motor (388ci .060 over) spun 8k and made 478 rwhp on a mustang dyno. I included a vid in my build thread of a dyno pull in 5th gear to 7800 and my coolant temps were fine. I ran a stock rad but with an ewp. If i had to offer any advice for anyone looking for optimum cooling at low speeds where the waterpump is moving very very slowly get an electric water pump.
Timing, afr and oil viscosity can also affect temps.
maybe youre not running cool because... You have too much torque?
Last edited by 5abivt; Aug 16, 2011 at 09:47 AM.
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1985-89 Replacement Auxiliary Fan Motor Kit
includes mounting bracket, fan motor/pre-mounted fan blades and graphic instructions for 1-hour installation.
Tech Instructions $169.99No LongerAvailable604-099
Tech Instructions $18.99No LongerAvailable622-613
Available603-980
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hey gregg, if your front fan looks like this......hope this helps
Last edited by oldalaskaman; Aug 16, 2011 at 09:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
If you can't see that posts touting they would buy "that" sort of thing (because of it's inferiority) as inflaming, you aren't very perceptive. Consider too, that no performance characteristics were contributed. You are free to interpret that kind of response how you like and so am I.
Great suggestion.