Not too get too far off subject but all the solutions that end up in the $$$$ bracket make you wonder if upgrading to a fster car much newer is simpler.

 

This is a valid point that I keep hearing, although I feel is misplaced.

ex.
If I had a 1969 Camaro, I would not say that I could simply "buy the next gen chassis to get a better engine". The only viable option for me with that chassis is to LS that bitch into a daily driver.

How else can you keep your favorite car? I think many are losing sight of the fact that it doesn't need to be a project car. It doesn't need to sit in the garage 5 days of the week.

 

Exactly. You can't be too careful. No matter how hard you try, **** is going to contaminate your engine. You can change the oil all you want; something is going to embed, somewhere. Upgrading air filters is another culprit, a cotton/wire like K&N flows great but allows some measure of increased engine contamination. It isn't negligible. It might take 100,000 miles but I guarantee you will see the effects as pitting, corrosion, conglomerates, all manner of engine ruining phenomena will occur. Maybe you can reduce it by properly maintaining the filter; I am not saying K&N is bad by any stretch. I just know for a fact that OEM paper is the way to go if you want to get high mileage from an engine. You can always swap the paper for the K&N On track days.

Also I never use rotating tools when doing internal engine cleaning. Use a razor blade, Brake cleaner, acetone (FSM for chevy truck says acetone + razor blade). Anything that moves quickly or rotates can create an uneven sealing surface. I didn't make any of this stuff up; its either in the books or in the FSM.

I have many pictures showing proper procedure, exactly what I've been preaching here is the practice:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...details-4.html

Any and all questions I am here to answer, please don't be afraid to ask. My background is bioengineering, mathematics, biological science, I am doing a PhD in mech. Engineering, I love cars and I love helping people with theirs.

 

The caveat is if I have the skill. Having the will is insufficient to guarantee good results. You cannot will a pig to fly, so to speak. You need both the skill and the will to make it work, assuming it is in the range of probability. I am not an experienced engine builder so in equal competition, I'd appreciate your confidence but I don't think I will do as good a job as an experienced engine builder simply because he knows more, assuming he is motivated.

It isn't going to be reality to build an engine in a clean room. I have seen engine builders that have a decent reputation and the shop is reasonably clean but they don't have a clean room. Even if they did, the engine isn't going to be operating in a clean room.

No worries. I didn't know if the year had a special issue. For example, the 85 seems to be problematic for scanners that aren't Tech 1. So assuming I am looking for a C4, that is a non-starter.

 

The way technology goes, sure. 10 years ago, I would spend a fortune on a computer. Today, I can get more for less. So, if you talk to someone like me, newer is better since there are more bells and whistles, so to speak. Nostalgia has no appeal to me so newer is better. That said, newer cannot simulate nostalgia. So what do you want?

 

I would think it depends on what your intention is. If you must turn a C4 into a speed demon, your path is clear. If you want to restore it because it reminds you of something, again, there is an answer. You can also turn a C4 into both a speed demon and a project but you are going to have to give up more time and money.

 

Kinda ruined the OP's thread in my opinion.

Someone's on a mission to convince anyone doing a cam swap to spend $15,000 more for a turbo'd LS swap. How spending $15,000 on a $10,000 car that will still be only a $10,000 car after the swap can make sense I don't even want to hear it. If his idea was worthwhile he could start his own thread. But it would only collect other dreamers while here there is already a captive audience. IMHO he is best ignored and I hope others understand that.

 

My answer is put a cam in if you like and an intake could help a bunch in a L98 car do the retune as if computer literate 95% can be done for the price of the hardware to do it and if keeping the car might end up as a scan and logging tool while at it all in one shot. These out to stay within the realm of injectors stock and if in good shape one less thing to buy. If you end up putting a couple thousand in to make it faster and more reliable it makes sense. I would caution to not get into the while I am in there syndrome. You can reach a point that it will not be possible to gain much no matter how much money is put into the car and sad to say it will never be a high dollar collectable in most lifetimes. There are way to many of them is a first start and easy to find an good example rather than a good example of a 1 of 30 exotic. Auctions have easily confirmed how cheap a nice one can be had.

 

I think the profits are easy for people who don't care about them. If you put all heart and soul into the work and always expect to be keeping it forever, there is always that one special buyer that thinks its worth your asking price.

If you are into the chassis, you have no choice but to update it. I see engine failure as an excuse to put something newer and more reliable in. And cam swaps, engine internal work, give the engine a chance to fail faster. Thats basically all I meant.

 

What appeared to be perfect examples on the latest Meccum auction were all well below 10k. One collector had a dozen C4's and lost money on every one and all single digit serial numbers with mileage that was between 35 and 2000. How about a 89 vert perfect paint interior and under 50k miles for 6k??

I would worry more about the quality of the aftermarket parts than the labor of installing them.

 

IDK if the car is even worth $10000 so if you want to ask me if I think it is worth spending money on, the answer is "HELL NO". At this point, the car is worth one of two things. Keep it stock or use it as a cheap platform to try out stuff on.

Here is my problem with the cam and hence some agreement with the LS system. Taking a stock L98, unless you do all the cam install work and are willing to take a small, if even noticeable power difference, it is going to take an intake and headers and a dyno tune to even see anything meaningful. So if you want a cam just to say you have one, sure. To make the system work, it is going to take money and time and tuning. So is it worth it? Not really. I'm not paying you for the mods you stick into it since it probably isn't the combination I want nor do I trust your install that much but that's me.

If my car got stolen and for whatever reason I decided to buy a C4 instead of a newer car, I'd definitely go the LS route if I wanted to modify or just stick with stock and do maintenance.

 

I consider myself REASONABLY computer literate. Tuning is a skill. There isn't a skill I know of that anyone can read a book and master in a free weekend. It takes time and money to hone the skill so it depends on what you mean by "can". Can I tune it to be somewhat able to run and spend more and more time fine tuning it and learn that skill in a weekend? No. If I want to spend hours on a dyno experimenting and honing the skill, perhaps. Will I ever be as good as a skilled tuner and his dyno? Not a chance. So how low a standard are you willing to accept comes into play.

Isn't that only a couple hundred bucks for a reman set? Considering what I am going to spend on a cam, money and time wise, I would think that is a less significant item. Intake and headers will come to more than that. Dyno tunes are $600 and up if you want a professional job.

Whatever you are sticking into this car, I wouldn't assume you can get more out of it because like you said, it isn't that desirable.

 

If you can afford to sit and wait and have tire kickers coming there, you might be right. Again, what is YOUR time worth when I am calling you, setting up an appointment, haggling, going home to think about it, rinse and repeat? But say you do after 5 years, is it worth it? Depends on what you got. If you get $2000 more by holding out, money depreciation and your extra maintenance and insurance could negate that.

 

This is why I suggest building a car you will drive every day. Build one for yourself, not to sell. The happenstance of selling it is negligible this way.

Even if you never sell it, and die owning it; somebody, probably your kids, can appreciate it. Since you built it for yourself, everything is done right.
It is something you wouldn't mind passing on.

The LS route is just icing on that cake; it gives you the security of knowing that, at least within the reasonable range of 500-700 horsepower, you can replace the engine cheaply. You don't need an LS to build an enjoyable car, but it sure helps knowing there are 100's locally available for low cost. IMO of course.

 

Thousands of LT's available in every locale. You want cheap.......second gen CSB's are that.

 

LT? As in LT-1 the 1995 engine? I feel that the optispark is the most terrible thing ever invented for an engine and I would never use this model.

 

If I am going to swap engines, I'd stick with the L98 or go all the way to the LS. If I were to the LT1, I'd figure on getting the conversion to remove the opti

 

Correct. It maybe overlooked nowadays but converting the LT1 intake to mount a conventional L98 distributor was somewhat common at one time. And with just a LT4 Hot Cam swap makes close to 400 flywheel horsepower. Why stick with the Opti if you can convert for a few hundred dollars?
I can recall seeing a picture with dozens of converted LT1 intakes from someone on a camaro forum.
Still many don't realize how versatile the second gen LT1 was/is. While those heads don't compare well to aftermarket heads they flow very well compared to any other stock sbc head. Oh and there's the LT4 second gen also. Those LT4 heads do compete with aftermarket heads.. Stroker LT1/LT4 gonna make some power and be fun to drive for a whole lot less than an LS conversion.

And I can find at least a dozen second gen LT1's at the Pick a Part today for less than $200 each.

So many options with the sbc I don't think anyone knows them all.

 

I usually get what I paid for. $200 for a Pick a Part usually doesn't net me much engine or confidence. I'd put one in a car I am about to sell and hope it lasts long enough to see you sign the "AS IS" acknowledgement. If I wanted an LT engine, I'd buy a Pick a Part for $200 and have it gone over by a machine shop. Fresh gaskets, honed cylinders, block pressure tested, wear items replaced before it gets put in my car. I really hate to do it again.

 

The other problem with the LT-1 series from 95' is the terrible longblock. Those engines are only able to handle approx 400 horsepower max before giving up. Its just a terrible design all around and I hope everyone will avoid them.