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Congrats on getting the car running again. Shitty to hear that your front seal is leaking. Curious if you put any trans fluid on the converter input snout?
Thanks guys. After rereading the instructions for the torque converter I see that it requires shims. Around 1/4" worth of washers to push the converter back into the trans case. So thats what I'm going to do tonight. Hopefully the front pump seal isnt damaged. Ive never heard of shimming a torque converter. Still stuck in old school world lol
Tonight I installed the roughly .285" worth of shims (thats what I measured with my digital calipers) in between the torque converter and flex plate. Used my finger as a gauge and there was about 1/8" clearance from the converter to trans. Unfortunately now the fluid is pouring out, before it was a steady drip. BUT I think that means the front seal is bad, which means I dont have to tear out the pump. I hope to get after it this weekend.
Trans is back in. Turns out i missed replacing the front converter bushing. I was able to install it without taking the pump out but it wasnt easy. Taped it to a piece of exhaust pipe i had laying around and hammered it in. Just need to bolt in the passenger side header, starter, wiper motor and fluid lines. What a pain in the ***.
Bandit, how much clearance (float) do you have with the converter to flex plate? I'm curious if those extra 0.285 of spacer will be pushing into the pump causing it to fail from excessive preload? I had enough clearance to freely spin my converter on my 700R, with no spacer
Bandit, how much clearance (float) do you have with the converter to flex plate? I'm curious if those extra 0.285 of spacer will be pushing into the pump causing it to fail from excessive preload? I had enough clearance to freely spin my converter on my 700R, with no spacer
The instructions were saying to push the converter into the trans all the way then pull it back out 1/16" to 3/16" then measure the distance from the flex plate to the converter bolt ears and that is how much shim you need. I believe I am about 1/8" out of the trans so it shouldn't be pressing on the pump.
Good news is I started it last night and topped it off and no more leaks! I'll have to do some road work this week to check pressures and get the computer to learn a tune. When it starts it has a bit of up and down on the rpm but its getting better. Has a nice steady lope at the targeted 800 rpm, I may go up to 900 and see if it is more stable. Sounds mean as hell though. I'm working on getting a video posted of it idling.
I didn't get much done this week, this evening I ran power to the dakota digital signal interface unit and hope to do some testing this weekend to get the speedo and tach working properly. I am also looking at purchasing a larger 3 row aluminum radiator. Ebay has them anywhere from $125 to $150 with dual fans, wondering if anyone has tried one of these? I did a search and the reviews are mixed depending on how you feel about china.
I didn't get much done this week, this evening I ran power to the dakota digital signal interface unit and hope to do some testing this weekend to get the speedo and tach working properly. I am also looking at purchasing a larger 3 row aluminum radiator. Ebay has them anywhere from $125 to $150 with dual fans, wondering if anyone has tried one of these? I did a search and the reviews are mixed depending on how you feel about china.
can't say I have tried one of those ebay radiators, I have a DeWitt in my car for 10 years and it works great.
I'm using one those cheap ebay rad's in my car, so far its works pretty decently. I purchased a rad sized for 700HP, I had big dreams when I originally did my car.
I'm using one those cheap ebay rad's in my car, so far its works pretty decently. I purchased a rad sized for 700HP, I had big dreams when I originally did my car.
I'm thinking the stock size single row radiator isn't going to cut it for this LS motor since I've practically doubled the horsepower (hopefully)
I did hook up the tach to the holley ecu output and it reads spot on so no need to run the tach signal through the dakota digital box. Only the speedometer i think. I'll find out this weekend.
Decided to go with a champion 3 row radiator from jegs. Still made in china but i wasnt completely confident in the ebay radiators and definitely cant afford a dewitt. So in the middle range i guess. Next will be an Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump, dont think the stock one will be able to keep up.
FYI i joined the ls swapped c4 facebook page. Looks like a lot of nice cars on there
I'm playing catch up here.
Looks like lots of progress made!
Yep as of now she is running and just waiting for me to drive to get the Holley system learning. I'll swap in the new radiator this weekend and maybe get a few miles on. Had to pause this week to build my daughter a tree house