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Another issue that came up this past week is the small gear in my rh headlight motor stripped out. Found a set of gears for both sides on amazon for $37. I read that its difficult to replace the small gear but it really wasnt. I set the headlight side of the shaft on top of a vice and easily hammered out the pin, took it all apart and replaced the gears and put it back together. Took maybe an hour tops including cleaning and greasing the gears with general purpose grease.
Glad you were able to get your power antenna working again, that's a good repair tip. Mine stopped working along time also, sadly my antenna motor was dead so I had to get a NOS one. I've been trying to figure out why GM ran the wires directly to the power antenna motor with no way to disconnect it other than cutting the wires...
Glad you were able to get your power antenna working again, that's a good repair tip. Mine stopped working along time also, sadly my antenna motor was dead so I had to get a NOS one. I've been trying to figure out why GM ran the wires directly to the power antenna motor with no way to disconnect it other than cutting the wires...
You can unplug it at the relay under the hatch trim but you have to push the grommet out which is fairly deep into the rear quarter. Hard to get to but not impossible.
You can unplug it at the relay under the hatch trim but you have to push the grommet out which is fairly deep into the rear quarter. Hard to get to but not impossible.
I just used the fog lights on my car and just use my headlights for when its really dark out. You can rig up a power bar type set-up if you want lots of lights. I don't even use the my power antenna and just stream music off my phone. You could put subs into the storage compartment that behind the seats. You can make a sub box or buy one premade for dual 10's.
Something im seeing a bit regularly now. Some moisture at the oil fill cap and some light brown spots. I fear that my 706 castech heads are leaking some water into the oil even though theres no signs of water on the dipstick. Considering a set of 799 ebay heads and switching valve springs from my heads. Short of pulling the valve covers is there any other way of knowing if these heads are leakers? The machine shop where i had them serviced said they checked out fine with the pressure check.
Something im seeing a bit regularly now. Some moisture at the oil fill cap and some light brown spots. I fear that my 706 castech heads are leaking some water into the oil even though theres no signs of water on the dipstick. Considering a set of 799 ebay heads and switching valve springs from my heads. Short of pulling the valve covers is there any other way of knowing if these heads are leakers? The machine shop where i had them serviced said they checked out fine with the pressure check.
Oh man, i'm sorry to hear this. Did you get the block decked before you did the rebuild? just wondering because the other thing it could be is a bad head gasket seal if the block deck wasn't quite level.... Hope it turns out to be something minor.
What is your pvc set up like or how are you venting the crankcase?
Any oil in the coolant? Loosing any coolant? Or are you just finding the film on the oil cap?
It could be that you just aren't running it long enough to get all the condensation out. It will collect on the underside of the oil cap when it is cold outside and doesn't get up to temp.
I run a catch can. Both valve covers are plumbed to it and it has a breather cap on it. When late fall hits, and we get cool weather I have to empty it quite regularly. Fills up with condesation and oil film. The rest of the year when it is 70 or above out when I am driving it a lot, the catch can stays empty. Just a little bit of oil in it.
Here is what it looked like today. Last time I drove her it was in the low 50s all night.
Last edited by Krusty84; Nov 29, 2020 at 10:53 PM.
Im not losing any coolant and it looks clean. My pvc system is almost like stock, what i did was i pulled the nipple out of the valve cover on the driver side, cut down the valve cover to clear the wiper motor, then threaded a 3/8" 90 degree elbow into the intake side, then plumbed the nipple inline with the 3/8" hose to the throttle body. Passenger side hooked up as usual to the port in front of the throttle blade.
i noticed the light brown residue before and i wiped it off and it stayed gone until recently. I also havent driven it lately just started it up a few times. Krusty i hope youre right and it just needs to be driven
Hey, this is a great thread! Thanks for posting progress and pictures. I found it a little late but have read and re-read from the beginning a few times. I have been busy this year as well doing the same type of swap into my '84. I picked up the car at a great price and drove it all last year. I have been wanting to do an LS swap for years. There really is a great deal of info on the interwebs. I am excited to put the words into action as I started last November. Sorry to here that about the 706s, same as mine. My shop did find a spot they addressed and I could not find it when I picked them up. I was told it was by a water jacket in between middle chambers. I can't say anything beyond that cause I haven't started it....yet. Currently in the wiring process.
Thanks blackvetter, its been quite a journey. Im not totally convinced that the heads are junk yet. Gonna get it out tomorrow and put some miles on it to see if the condensation goes away. If not I'll be looking at some 799 heads. I should have done more research on the castechs but my shop said they were fine. We'll see
Since the ICT Billit ac bracket sets the compressor out a tad too much to run the ac lines I ordered a Dirty Dingo bracket. Pricey at $250 but includes everything including the tensioner and it is 1" tighter to the engine. Hoping that will be enough. Supposed to be here yesterday but it appears usps lost it. Imagine that
Since the ICT Billit ac bracket sets the compressor out a tad too much to run the ac lines I ordered a Dirty Dingo bracket. Pricey at $250 but includes everything including the tensioner and it is 1" tighter to the engine. Hoping that will be enough. Supposed to be here yesterday but it appears usps lost it. Imagine that
Ya what is it with A/C brackets? USPS lost my holley one for a few weeks as well!
Hope they find it in a timely manner and hope it it solves the problem.
USPS is a disaster. I'll be checking future orders to make sure its ups from now on.
Took Solid Gold out for a 20 mile spin this afternoon and no more signs of the tan residue. There was more water under the oil cap so I'm convinced its condensation but I dont think I've ever seen this before on the older engines.
One thing thats got me puzzled is I have no heat. I fixed the threaded rod that actuates the hot/cold door when I replaced the heater core and its working fine. I know the heater core is getting water so it should be hot as hell. Must be one of the vacuum actuaters. I get air through each of the vents as I run through the settings but no heat. Any suggestions are appreciated!
Good question as my fsm doesnt have the heater section just the ac section. Im guessing taking off the driver side hush panel to gain access to the 3 vacuum actuaters and see if they are operating correctly. I just rechecked my cable operated blend door and it is still connected and working properly. Both hoses at the heater core at the firewall are hot. This thing should be running me out
What type of heater control/diverter valve are you using and how is it controlled? I have a simple one way valve that is vacuum activated in my '84.
Im using the factory diverter valve with the original vacuum connection, appears to be operating correctly. When it was out i flushed it out and seemed to flow fine.
Wish I could be of help but my 88' uses a totally different HVAC system, so i'm not familar with how the earlier HVAC stuff works. Not sure why GM kept switching a HVAC systems on these cars every year or 2. Maybe message fourm member Mike Holmen, he did a LQ9 swap on his 85'.
