I booked some dyno time for this Wednesday. supposed to be about 95 degrees. Not ideal for the car but still data.

 

Car is getting strapped on the dyno as I write. I'll post the results as soon as I know.

 

Pretty stout improvement and it didn't really lose anything meaningful down low. There is no correction on these numbers so what it made are the raw numbers just like the last pull. Being the DA was -400 feet for the old pull and today was 95 woth DA in the low 3000 foot range, that's a massive improvement.

 

That's a great improvement, with nothing significant lost down low.
What type of dyno is that, and what multiplier was applied to determine 'engine power' ?

 

Look at that torque curve. That’s excellent. The chart says eng power etc is that a dyno corrected number or is it rear wheel power?

 

See below.
it's a Mustang dyno (eddy current) the correction is to what a dyno jet would read. The engine power is just what he has the axis titled. There is no correction from wheel beyond the correction to a dynojet number.

I was told his correction is conservative and most the cars he has run on that read higher on other dynos... so I think I'm okay. The uncorrected numbers were 311tq/306hp. Compared to the original uncorrected 306/245. It's still a pickup of 60+ at the wheel. Again, no atmospheric corrections were made to either number set.

 

....and that's all that really matters.
Dyno numbers alone are largely worthless, especially DynoJet

 

Saw this...Nice! So with the Renegade you picked up 60hp over a ported stock or bone stock? If so, I guess when I said the Renegade was good for 30hp RWHP, I was WAY off huh? Ben will testify to the fact his ran WAY better after the change from XRam to Renegade just like mine does now with the new and much improved tune. BTW, hey Ben how's it going? Haven't seen you around for a long while. When you gonna get the 84 out on the road again? Greg is chomping at the bit to give you a go.

 

No I’m not, that’s a much faster car than mine. Actually it’s better in every way tbh (well it will be with a new gearbox).
So it looks like about a 25% improvement which is huge. I always tell people it’s probably worth 20% so that’s a bit better.

 

Hey Tom,
I still sniff around here from time to time I've been working on my car for the last few weeks. It was pretty much ready to go again until I thought I'd give the tune a touch up and blew up the transmission on the dyno
The old 27 spline 700r4 had done a good job, but I think I pushed it a bit too far. I'd never tuned it at steady state for best torque before and it cried 'enough!'
I pulled the trans out last week and have started to install the 4L60e I built for it in 2010ish. I wired the car for 4L60e control in late 2004! I really hope it works because I can't remember what I put in it and I'm not pulling it apart again to find out
This means I can finally install a good converter and ditch the old modified stock 12" junk that's been in there since 2004. That should be worth a tenth surely?
It should be running again within a fortnight, assuming the trans works!

Apologies for the thread hijack!

 

Precisely. Now to get it to the track... we were going to steady state load it and tweak the tune a little more but there really was no reason to. I probably could have pulled out a few more numbers here and there but I think there are some other things going on at this point. It's has the potential for 20 more numbers at top, you can see where it starts to nose down on the ramp. It honestly may have too much timing up top, not entirely sure at the moment. All I know is I've driven and been in a few very quick cars... this one scares me a little. The rear does a little dance whenever you're on it on the street and it's fun but I can't hit it unless I'm going straight. Tested that theory in a parking lot and made a very quick u turn. Hopefully the track will have a test and tune on my off days soon so I can run it.

Just out of curiosity, were you seeing limitations with the air housing? I was hearing some things on the dyno (granted the car rattled my brain so much i do not know if it was real) that almost sounded like chuffing on one pull. Just curious because I had thought someone did.

Oh and no need to apologize for the the hijack, love hearing what is going on.
Straight stock there Tom. But I will say, I don't think you can push the stocker further than that without touching it. I still think there is more potential if I clean up the hump from the EGR tube in 6 and 8 and true up the rest of the ports since they're all kind of all over the place. I'd also be curious to see how much more is really in just from the tune... I mean I did all that on the street in a total of 4 hours of drive time since March. The operator was impressed how bang on to my afr targets it was running. If Rob gets back to me I think there is a bit still in it. I also want to try running it un corked... pull the 2.25 exhaust section off the back and run it with the full 3 inch section and see what that does.
I think 20% is reasonable... I taxed the stock intake... I don't think most setups will push it that hard. I am impressed it gave up nothing really anywhere however. I really expected a bigger hit down low but the butt dyno didn't lie. Felt as good low and better on top.

 

Since I was in the car, This is the only shot I had of the pull... The leaner AFR down low I am not worried about. There is never a situation where I would be flogging it in third from 1700 or so. the preliminary pulls in first and second showed that not to be there in the same range. So adding fuel in that area may not be beneficial for street driving where I will flog it there in first or second and is fine... Also, you may ask why 3rd gear? Well the first pull of last run set was done in 4th. I wasn't crazy about the wheel speed being 152 mph and being switching to third changed nothing and the pulls overlaid perfectly, it made life easier.

 

Thanks Paul for the info, it still is running pretty damn good IMO regardless. It looks like you go a tad fat at the end of the pull. Anyway, it also looks like you are going in the right direction and CFI CAN run very well when done the right way. Even though you have had many issues with your manifold...GOOO RENEGADE!

Greg, I'm jus bustin' on you a little, but you know that...right? But deep down inside you would like to run em just to see huh.

Ben, that is awesome actually and hope you go even lower which I'm sure you will. With my new tune, my goal is 11.99, anything lower is gravy. I did a What's Up 1/4 mile hit and had to get out of it because some idiot decided to pull out in front of me at 100+ on a deserted road, (in Mexico) he came out of nowhere. Anyway, when I looked at the data, I was SHOCKED at what the car was running and I think I will reach my goal and then some. She felt really strong for sure. The car was flat out hauling a**! It is all in the launch (on that hit I did a 1.57 60') (My best so far was a 1.70, 60') and if I can stick it at the track, I had my Dragy ON as well for a backup. I'm flyin'.. I'm really afraid I will break something if I dead hook it though. This winter will be the test around late Oct into Nov maybe, but Jan/Feb are the months here for stellar air and great DAs. My only issue now is that I blew a DR sidewall and CAN NOT get another tire yet...ANYWHERE. So that is an issue. Good luck Ben!!

 

I think the fatness up top is a combination of the IAT compensation, the PE AFR richer, and hitting the extended VE tables. There just isn't enough resolution in those higher tables to really smooth it in but even still, its only half an AFR... Nothing drastic.

I too ran a what's up quarter mile and I was seeing a 2.0 60 foot... For a stick on the street trying to not shatter a dana 36, that is pretty good. I backed out around 110 but it looks like if I can pull off a good launch I'll be breaking the beams near the top of 3rd... so around 115 in the trap. This was on the way back from the dyno. Coincides with the numbers the dyno reports.

I also don't know if anyone noticed but... There is a little vacuum present higher up in the pull.

 

Also, look at the consistency. The low range I feel is fuel puddling in the intake causing those little swings but the pull overall is great. And again, pull 3 was the best.

 

I've run it with the lid off on the dyno and it made no difference to power output. I can't be certain that I checked the MAP sensor though, so I'll do it again once it's running.
I have removed the flaps in the air cleaner snout, but that wouldn't make much difference. I've also checked from underneath that the air cleaner inlets line up perfectly with the rubber seals on the under-hood ducting. An alignment issue here could partially block the inlets, if the motor is sitting low on bad mounts for example.
I assume you've also done the mod where you cut the hole in the top of the rad shroud and fit a rubber seal?

 

I have not actually. Being I see IATs in the 120 range in the 90s I haven't bothered... I don't really think I'll get much an improvement though I have considered it.

Guess I'll look somewhere else for a restriction...

 

BTW, I also saw about an inch of vacuum at WOT with mine on the dyno. I always thought it was my other 180 heads, guess not, because I saw it with my 195s as well. I did find that my TBs are not opening 100% at WOT, so that would explain it...maybe? They are close, but not 100% open and it still hauls a**. Now I just have to figure out why they are not opening 100%.

 

Mine shows an inch or so at WOT also.
The MAP sensor can only be used to show a restriction before the point where the sensor is connected, ie. carb, TB or filter, it can't be used to indicate the head ports are restrictive.
In fact if your head ports were the size of a drinking straw the MAP would show full atmo pressure at WOT with no pressure drop

 

Thanks Ben, so maybe my TBs are the issue? I know there is a real issue with 82 throttle cables on some cars. I can go full throttle at the pedal and the actually move the linkage just that little bit more to get WOT. This did this with the old throttle cable and the new one. I guess I will grab my mechanical engineer friend and have him and I give it a good look over sometime to see what the issue really is.