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I'm going to try and set up a dyno appointment this week. I was out driving the car last night and just rolling into the throttle was starting to put it sideways. Air temps were around 50 degrees so the tires weren't griping 100% but its never done that. My logs show less than 2/3 throttle and less than half even. She was in rare form last night and running mint.
I am getting knock counts on free revs but I think that's normal... it is pulling spark when that happens but I'm not getting any counts or retard while driving. The plan remains the same. Drive the car with the same tune and see if it leans out anywhere. That then means that it improved and is making more power because of increased fuel demand. I'm excited.
I'm going to try and set up a dyno appointment this week. I was out driving the car last night and just rolling into the throttle was starting to put it sideways. Air temps were around 50 degrees so the tires weren't griping 100% but its never done that. My logs show less than 2/3 throttle and less than half even. She was in rare form last night and running mint.
I am getting knock counts on free revs but I think that's normal... it is pulling spark when that happens but I'm not getting any counts or retard while driving. The plan remains the same. Drive the car with the same tune and see if it leans out anywhere. That then means that it improved and is making more power because of increased fuel demand. I'm excited.
What do you guys think? Epoxy the rear coolant ports shut on the intake since I can't use the stock block off plates on my new head? I feel it'll cool the cylinder heads better.
Sure. Or get the gaskets that have blocked off coolant ports?
I was looking but I can't find them in a 1205 size. That's the issue. My last ones had a steel plate but the coolant port in the head was bigger than the plate lol.
I made some timing table changes last night. Tip in is crazy now and that wasn't even trying really lol. It is pouring today. I'm hoping dyno by the end of the week. Then swap the intake over the weekend and get back on asap... before they brine the roads to hell. (If I can avoid it, I do)
I usually luck out. Driving ends in like a week or 2. It gets cold but they don't do anything until after first snow fall. Last year it was already over by now though.
With the present weather conditions I would normally be jumping at the opportunity to do some test hits. However, the car is still in pieces (see my other threads) and my cooling fan is still not installed. That being said, I secured a set of throttle bodies for free and I'm either going to have them bored or find a boring bar and do it myself. Thoughts?
I did mine, myself on a boring bar. The came out pretty good. After I bored 'em, I used a die grinder to smooth the transition from the original inlet radius, to the new bore diameter, then finished that off, with a hone. Came out sweet.
I "holed" my bore walls, b/c I went to the "max size you can go w/o holing", 2.03"/53mm IIRC. I holed. Fixed that with epoxy and smoothed by hand w/sand paper. Worked great for years.
I did mine, myself on a boring bar. The came out pretty good. After I bored 'em, I used a die grinder to smooth the transition from the original inlet radius, to the new bore diameter, then finished that off, with a hone. Came out sweet.
I "holed" my bore walls, b/c I went to the "max size you can go w/o holing", 2.03"/53mm IIRC. I holed. Fixed that with epoxy and smoothed by hand w/sand paper. Worked great for years.
I remember a few months ago you and Tom (Buccaneer) having this very (somewhat heated lol) discussion. He was saying you could go 2.13 or something and be okay but you holed on the low end (as you said). I'm thinking the boring bar is the way to go unless my guy does it pretty cheap. My only concern is all the drill presses I have access to are pretty clapped out. And I'd have to spend the 50$ on the boring bar. So if the machine shop comes in at like 100$ I'm probably just going to send it to them and let them deal with it.
I did some quick and dirty calcs based on some available CFM numbers in plenum per square inch and at 2 inches the throttle bodies should flow roughly 650 cfm according to my math. More than adequate for a street 350 and way more than what I feel the ported intake is going to flow. I don't recall what the stock size is but I based it at 46mm... think that is correct. And come up with 550 or so... so derate that slightly because it's wet flow and I'd feel you're looking at 500cfm or so stock and 600 or so at 2 inches. Seems about right. I don't have a plenum vacuum issue at wide open now. But part of that is more than likely that the choke point is the runners not the throttle bodies.
Yeah, CFI-EFI bored his TB's on his stock (+ported intake and dual exhaust) combo, and gained absolutely nothing. Your combo has greater demands than his, but if you're not building plenum vacuum now, then you probably won't see any WOT gains from the bore-job. What you will see is a nice increase in throttle ratio; more perceived low end grunt per mm of throttle depression.
Yeah, CFI-EFI bored his TB's on his stock (+ported intake and dual exhaust) combo, and gained absolutely nothing. Your combo has greater demands than his, but if you're not building plenum vacuum now, then you probably won't see any WOT gains from the bore-job. What you will see is a nice increase in throttle ratio; more perceived low end grunt per mm of throttle depression.
yea I mean it already takes zero throttle to keep me rolling. 55mph is about 8% tps. These are more for if I need them on the ported unit or renegade. I have a feeling when it's actually making power at 6300 it'll appreciate it. And I don't mind wicked tip in. Keep everyone from wanting to test drive my car lol. It's pretty aggressive already but I'm so used to drive by wire that cable driven feels so much better..