NEW Interior LED Mod Thread
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 20,030
Likes: 289
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 20,030
Likes: 289
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
Tim:
On a side note.... I plan to re-flow the 8x 241 SMT resistors to fix the Dim Display issue. I don't have a problem now, but while I'm in there I might as well get it done.
Good procedure here for folks that don't know....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...splay-fix.html
While I am in there I also plan to perform a trick I wrote about a few years ago to fix the "ERR" messages I used to get on my stock CD player when trying to load CD's. It turned out that the laser lens was covered in grime over the years, and cleaning it with alcohol fixed it. CD's worked great again. I figure if I'm in there again I might as well clean it again.
Maybe my procedure can help some one out while there working on there radio....
Go to my web page.....
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aae8/webpage.html
Scroll down to :
C5 Corvette - CD Player Laser Cleaning Procedure:
Hope this helps !
Toque
On a side note.... I plan to re-flow the 8x 241 SMT resistors to fix the Dim Display issue. I don't have a problem now, but while I'm in there I might as well get it done.
Good procedure here for folks that don't know....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...splay-fix.html
While I am in there I also plan to perform a trick I wrote about a few years ago to fix the "ERR" messages I used to get on my stock CD player when trying to load CD's. It turned out that the laser lens was covered in grime over the years, and cleaning it with alcohol fixed it. CD's worked great again. I figure if I'm in there again I might as well clean it again.
Maybe my procedure can help some one out while there working on there radio....
Go to my web page.....
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aae8/webpage.html
Scroll down to :
C5 Corvette - CD Player Laser Cleaning Procedure:
Hope this helps !
Toque
CF "Young" Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,034
Likes: 26
From: Cupertino CA
St. Jude Donor '12
Workin on my own door-reflector LED mod right now... gotta pick up some epoxy in the morning to hold the LED strip in place. This'll be the first time I've had to remove my door panels from my car! 
I may just rattle-can the reflector's back-plate black and put it in without the lens, I was rather surprised to see how much light the red lens doesn't let through.
Also, surpsingly enough, I was able to seperate both of the lens from their backplates just by twisting a wide screwdriver head in the gap slowly and working it around, with minimal material left on the lens itself. No need to Dremel cut or anything.
I might be able to machine out my own clear lenses in the near future, if so I'll let you guys know how that comes along.
I may just rattle-can the reflector's back-plate black and put it in without the lens, I was rather surprised to see how much light the red lens doesn't let through.
Also, surpsingly enough, I was able to seperate both of the lens from their backplates just by twisting a wide screwdriver head in the gap slowly and working it around, with minimal material left on the lens itself. No need to Dremel cut or anything.
I might be able to machine out my own clear lenses in the near future, if so I'll let you guys know how that comes along.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Youngstown New York
Hi Tim,
I started to do my electromatic mirror and i would like to get all the LED's to light fully, it looks to me that the outer 4 bulbs are in series with each other and then the inner 2 are in series by themselves. Can the outer bulbs be reconfigured so that what you end up with is 3 parallel sets of 2 bulbs in series using just the one circuit?
Jim
I started to do my electromatic mirror and i would like to get all the LED's to light fully, it looks to me that the outer 4 bulbs are in series with each other and then the inner 2 are in series by themselves. Can the outer bulbs be reconfigured so that what you end up with is 3 parallel sets of 2 bulbs in series using just the one circuit?
Jim
CF "Young" Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,034
Likes: 26
From: Cupertino CA
St. Jude Donor '12
Little teaser of 'phase 1' of a project I'm working on. 'Phase 2' probably won't get started for a month or two (waiting on getting access to a CNC router).
I'll upload shots of how I did this setup this weekend, gotta get the photos off my phone.
I'll upload shots of how I did this setup this weekend, gotta get the photos off my phone.
Last edited by flaagan; Feb 4, 2011 at 09:49 PM.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 20,030
Likes: 289
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
Well I got the HVAC done. What a pain in the ..... 
I thought I needed a "few" warm white LED's for the HVAC and Radio. Other than the RED and BLUE for the dials I used ALL Warm white LED's. It turned out GREAT ! No hot spots at all. Everything is nice and WHITE looking. There is a very slight "blue" hue to the letters "PA" in Passenger from the Blue LED on the dial. Nothing I'm going to worry about though. I sure as heck are not tearing it apart for that...
I only have the Radio left. I just don't have enough Warm White LED's for my radio now since I used most of them on the HVAC. I got some on order now. I did not know that all of the LED's in the HVAC needed to be Warm White....
I'll be ready for my Radio soon.
Nothing like dragging out a project huh ?.....
Toque
I thought I needed a "few" warm white LED's for the HVAC and Radio. Other than the RED and BLUE for the dials I used ALL Warm white LED's. It turned out GREAT ! No hot spots at all. Everything is nice and WHITE looking. There is a very slight "blue" hue to the letters "PA" in Passenger from the Blue LED on the dial. Nothing I'm going to worry about though. I sure as heck are not tearing it apart for that...
I only have the Radio left. I just don't have enough Warm White LED's for my radio now since I used most of them on the HVAC. I got some on order now. I did not know that all of the LED's in the HVAC needed to be Warm White....
I'll be ready for my Radio soon.Nothing like dragging out a project huh ?.....
Toque
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 20,030
Likes: 289
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
I got the warm white LED's from C-Leds.com. I now have more on order for the Radio. I'll have to look at it again but I think there was a "VERY" tiny green tint now that you mention it. Barely if at all noticeable. It looks fantastic and really blends well with everything else. Instead of a 10mm LED for the fan speed button I combined 2x 3mm leds together and aimed one slightly up and one slightly down. No hot spots anywhere I can see. I have been frosting all of my LED's with 400 grit sandpaper and I think that helps with the hot spots. The light seems to disperse well with them frosted.
I'll have to get a few pics tonight to show my progress.
I'm not overly looking forward to the radio hearing the complaints from you guys...
It will be worth the effort though. 
Toque
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 20,030
Likes: 289
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
Tim:
Here is a quick pic.
The radio sure stands out as needing done...
I suck at taking pictures in the dark. I think I had my shutter open too long. They are not as bright as the picture seems to show. I think that's why they look distorted too.
I'll work on getting better shots once I finish everything.
Your right... now that you pointed it out to me...
... there is a slight green hue about the HVAC. Its very subtle though. At first glance you would never know it and I never noticed it till you mentioned it.
Toque
Here is a quick pic.
The radio sure stands out as needing done...
I suck at taking pictures in the dark. I think I had my shutter open too long. They are not as bright as the picture seems to show. I think that's why they look distorted too.
I'll work on getting better shots once I finish everything. Your right... now that you pointed it out to me...
... there is a slight green hue about the HVAC. Its very subtle though. At first glance you would never know it and I never noticed it till you mentioned it. Toque
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 7
From: Redding CA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 480
From: Brea CA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 7
From: Redding CA
Thank you Gary. 
I'm currently on page 20, although I've read 30-35..so 10 pages left to go.
The route it seems like I'm going to take is give the door switches a shot and then see how comfortable I am trying the DIC/HUD and traction control switch.
I'll leave the mirror, add puddle lights, fender coves and the footwells/cargo shouldn't too tough to knock out myself.
I will pay to have the HVAC done by a forum member such as JW.
It seems as though in order to get the light to disperse correctly you have to "aim" it just right, I just assume that with the "trial and error" that some of the members have had, this takes mere seconds verses hours for me.
Donnie
I'm currently on page 20, although I've read 30-35..so 10 pages left to go.
The route it seems like I'm going to take is give the door switches a shot and then see how comfortable I am trying the DIC/HUD and traction control switch.
I'll leave the mirror, add puddle lights, fender coves and the footwells/cargo shouldn't too tough to knock out myself.
I will pay to have the HVAC done by a forum member such as JW.
It seems as though in order to get the light to disperse correctly you have to "aim" it just right, I just assume that with the "trial and error" that some of the members have had, this takes mere seconds verses hours for me.
Donnie
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 18
From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Toque - Looking good! Everyone will tell you that these are very hard to get good pictures of. I've found that some ambient light is better then no light... Goof was a typo, I suck at typing!
Donnie - Sounds like an excellent plan! Hook one of the LED/resistors up to a 9 volt battery, then you can adjust the depth and aim. When you find the best angle and depth solder it in...
If you get the plug and play (P&P) bulbs I suggest removing them from the bases and soldering them in, I'm in the process now of replacing some of the newer P&P bulbs with LEDs for one of my customers, the P&Ps are a SMT style and are a very light baby blue compared to the normal deep rich blue... Wierd
Gary - Thanx for still monitoring the Thread!!!!
Tim
Donnie - Sounds like an excellent plan! Hook one of the LED/resistors up to a 9 volt battery, then you can adjust the depth and aim. When you find the best angle and depth solder it in...
If you get the plug and play (P&P) bulbs I suggest removing them from the bases and soldering them in, I'm in the process now of replacing some of the newer P&P bulbs with LEDs for one of my customers, the P&Ps are a SMT style and are a very light baby blue compared to the normal deep rich blue... Wierd
Gary - Thanx for still monitoring the Thread!!!!
Tim
CF "Young" Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,034
Likes: 26
From: Cupertino CA
St. Jude Donor '12
When I get around to Phase 2, I'm either gonna have to get creative with the material I use, or cut back on the number / brightness of the LED's I use. These things light up the interior like nobody's business!
That being said, damn, they work awesome as 'puddle lights' for entry!
That being said, damn, they work awesome as 'puddle lights' for entry!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 7
From: Redding CA
Toque - Looking good! Everyone will tell you that these are very hard to get good pictures of. I've found that some ambient light is better then no light... Goof was a typo, I suck at typing!
Donnie - Sounds like an excellent plan! Hook one of the LED/resistors up to a 9 volt battery, then you can adjust the depth and aim. When you find the best angle and depth solder it in...
If you get the plug and play (P&P) bulbs I suggest removing them from the bases and soldering them in, I'm in the process now of replacing some of the newer P&P bulbs with LEDs for one of my customers, the P&Ps are a SMT style and are a very light baby blue compared to the normal deep rich blue... Wierd
Gary - Thanx for still monitoring the Thread!!!!
Tim
Donnie - Sounds like an excellent plan! Hook one of the LED/resistors up to a 9 volt battery, then you can adjust the depth and aim. When you find the best angle and depth solder it in...
If you get the plug and play (P&P) bulbs I suggest removing them from the bases and soldering them in, I'm in the process now of replacing some of the newer P&P bulbs with LEDs for one of my customers, the P&Ps are a SMT style and are a very light baby blue compared to the normal deep rich blue... Wierd
Gary - Thanx for still monitoring the Thread!!!!
Tim
Thank you. Do you recommend going with the "plug n plays"? Is there any advantage of one over the other as far as the final light output and quality?
I'm not as concerned with the cost.
The only part that I don't understand..(on the window switches) when I "unwind" the wires on the old bulbs to put the new L.E.D.'s into the OEM housings..
Do I have to do any soldering?? What do I solder the bulbs to? It doesn't appear that there is a pc board...
These ones MUST have resistors also correct?
When you say to hook them up to a 9V battery and then adjust depth and angle for proper light output...
Isn't the window switch completely disassembled? I mean, how can you see what the light is going to look like without the cover on it like it would be when it's sitting in the car?? (sorry if this doesn't make sense)
And in the spdkilz write-up...it doesn't show any DE-SOLDERING in the window switch how-to?? I'm just wondering what I'm supposed to solder if I don't desolder anything?
I think I'm just going to go ahead and tackle the door switches tonight and see how they go(maybe do the DIC/HUD this weekend)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 7
From: Redding CA
Do you just have to solder if you're adding a resistor and don't buy the leds with the resistor built in?
On the doors/HUD/DIC I mean?
Do you just "wrap" the l.e.d. leads around the little base and then just let them sit with no solder?
Thank you,
Donnie
EDIT: okay...there are these http://www.oznium.com/corvette-c5-led The link says they work for doors and gauges...
or these http://www.oznium.com/led but I can't find any of them in 8 MM??
I'd prefer to go with the first ones but the link doesn't show an "A" and a "B"...it just says Type 74??
Are there any bulbs that you guys have bought at a local radio shack that work that already have the resistors built in? I'm going to look myself on the website now but I just don't know exactly what I'm looking at when it comes to L.E.D. sizing and resistor values..
On the doors/HUD/DIC I mean?
Do you just "wrap" the l.e.d. leads around the little base and then just let them sit with no solder?
Thank you,
Donnie
EDIT: okay...there are these http://www.oznium.com/corvette-c5-led The link says they work for doors and gauges...
or these http://www.oznium.com/led but I can't find any of them in 8 MM??
I'd prefer to go with the first ones but the link doesn't show an "A" and a "B"...it just says Type 74??
Are there any bulbs that you guys have bought at a local radio shack that work that already have the resistors built in? I'm going to look myself on the website now but I just don't know exactly what I'm looking at when it comes to L.E.D. sizing and resistor values..
Last edited by 00Corvette; Feb 9, 2011 at 02:26 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 480
From: Brea CA
No problem Tim.
Gar6
Gar6
Tim,
Thank you. Do you recommend going with the "plug n plays"? Is there any advantage of one over the other as far as the final light output and quality?
I'm not as concerned with the cost.
The only part that I don't understand..(on the window switches) when I "unwind" the wires on the old bulbs to put the new L.E.D.'s into the OEM housings..
Do I have to do any soldering?? What do I solder the bulbs to? It doesn't appear that there is a pc board...
These ones MUST have resistors also correct?
When you say to hook them up to a 9V battery and then adjust depth and angle for proper light output...
Isn't the window switch completely disassembled? I mean, how can you see what the light is going to look like without the cover on it like it would be when it's sitting in the car?? (sorry if this doesn't make sense)
And in the spdkilz write-up...it doesn't show any DE-SOLDERING in the window switch how-to?? I'm just wondering what I'm supposed to solder if I don't desolder anything?
I think I'm just going to go ahead and tackle the door switches tonight and see how they go(maybe do the DIC/HUD this weekend)
Thank you. Do you recommend going with the "plug n plays"? Is there any advantage of one over the other as far as the final light output and quality?
I'm not as concerned with the cost.
The only part that I don't understand..(on the window switches) when I "unwind" the wires on the old bulbs to put the new L.E.D.'s into the OEM housings..
Do I have to do any soldering?? What do I solder the bulbs to? It doesn't appear that there is a pc board...
These ones MUST have resistors also correct?
When you say to hook them up to a 9V battery and then adjust depth and angle for proper light output...
Isn't the window switch completely disassembled? I mean, how can you see what the light is going to look like without the cover on it like it would be when it's sitting in the car?? (sorry if this doesn't make sense)
And in the spdkilz write-up...it doesn't show any DE-SOLDERING in the window switch how-to?? I'm just wondering what I'm supposed to solder if I don't desolder anything?
I think I'm just going to go ahead and tackle the door switches tonight and see how they go(maybe do the DIC/HUD this weekend)
Do you just have to solder if you're adding a resistor and don't buy the leds with the resistor built in?
On the doors/HUD/DIC I mean?
Do you just "wrap" the l.e.d. leads around the little base and then just let them sit with no solder?
Thank you,
Donnie
EDIT: okay...there are these http://www.oznium.com/corvette-c5-led The link says they work for doors and gauges...
or these http://www.oznium.com/led but I can't find any of them in 8 MM??
I'd prefer to go with the first ones but the link doesn't show an "A" and a "B"...it just says Type 74??
Are there any bulbs that you guys have bought at a local radio shack that work that already have the resistors built in? I'm going to look myself on the website now but I just don't know exactly what I'm looking at when it comes to L.E.D. sizing and resistor values..
On the doors/HUD/DIC I mean?
Do you just "wrap" the l.e.d. leads around the little base and then just let them sit with no solder?
Thank you,
Donnie
EDIT: okay...there are these http://www.oznium.com/corvette-c5-led The link says they work for doors and gauges...
or these http://www.oznium.com/led but I can't find any of them in 8 MM??
I'd prefer to go with the first ones but the link doesn't show an "A" and a "B"...it just says Type 74??
Are there any bulbs that you guys have bought at a local radio shack that work that already have the resistors built in? I'm going to look myself on the website now but I just don't know exactly what I'm looking at when it comes to L.E.D. sizing and resistor values..
Toque - Looking good! Everyone will tell you that these are very hard to get good pictures of. I've found that some ambient light is better then no light... Goof was a typo, I suck at typing!
Donnie - Sounds like an excellent plan! Hook one of the LED/resistors up to a 9 volt battery, then you can adjust the depth and aim. When you find the best angle and depth solder it in...
If you get the plug and play (P&P) bulbs I suggest removing them from the bases and soldering them in, I'm in the process now of replacing some of the newer P&P bulbs with LEDs for one of my customers, the P&Ps are a SMT style and are a very light baby blue compared to the normal deep rich blue... Wierd
Gary - Thanx for still monitoring the Thread!!!!
Tim
Donnie - Sounds like an excellent plan! Hook one of the LED/resistors up to a 9 volt battery, then you can adjust the depth and aim. When you find the best angle and depth solder it in...
If you get the plug and play (P&P) bulbs I suggest removing them from the bases and soldering them in, I'm in the process now of replacing some of the newer P&P bulbs with LEDs for one of my customers, the P&Ps are a SMT style and are a very light baby blue compared to the normal deep rich blue... Wierd
Gary - Thanx for still monitoring the Thread!!!!
Tim