NEW Interior LED Mod Thread
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 7
From: Columbus Oh
When the engine is on all of the LED's will light up. With it off only the middle rows will light up. This is due to the voltage required by each white (or blue) LED to turn on. Each LED needs 3.5v to turn on.
With just the battery voltage you have approximately 12.6 to 12.8v to power up the LED circuits. With the engine on you have around 14v.
The mix of green and yellow LEDs used by GM in the mirror require a bit less voltage to turn on that is why they were used.
So in the end you have installed them correctly.
Gary
With just the battery voltage you have approximately 12.6 to 12.8v to power up the LED circuits. With the engine on you have around 14v.
The mix of green and yellow LEDs used by GM in the mirror require a bit less voltage to turn on that is why they were used.
So in the end you have installed them correctly.
Gary
Any other ideas?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 480
From: Brea CA
I modified the little circuit board as instructed by tim like this...
The result, however, did not change. I still only have the middle two lights lit up with the car on or off.
Did I perform that mod correctly? Does anyone perhaps have any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Dave
The result, however, did not change. I still only have the middle two lights lit up with the car on or off.
Did I perform that mod correctly? Does anyone perhaps have any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Dave
I would carefully re-solder the connections. Also do you have the same result with both left and right modules?
Gary
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 7
From: Columbus Oh
Looking at the first photo it looks like you have some damaged circuit traces where the LED's are soldered in. And they all don't look clean. You may need to scrape some of the coating from the circuit traces to get a spot to solder to for the damaged ones. All of the contacts on the left side of the module look damaged.
I would carefully re-solder the connections. Also do you have the same result with both left and right modules?
Gary
I would carefully re-solder the connections. Also do you have the same result with both left and right modules?
Gary
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For 02z06dave - could you please re-post up the pics in the post SilverC54me references two posts above? Would like to see what he is talking about.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,062
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From: Allyn WA
LED upgrade
It has been a while since I have been on this thread. I have had a problem with my LED in the middle DIC position (goes out, flickers, stays on sometime). It has been bugging me for months. Finally figured out it has to be the bulb (tried 2 different DIC modules). Anyway my LEDs have always been dimmer then the ones in the climate control. I noticed OZUIM now has brighter wedge LEDs that are 2 time the brightness! I just ordered a full set for all non climate control pieces. Has anybody else put these more brighter wedges in their car?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,062
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From: Allyn WA
Has anyone attempted an LED cluster yet? These LEDs look really great in the buttons, *****, and switches, but I'd love to see a cluster with C6 brightness and crispness to match. The El-Glo gauges are close, but I don't love the bold font. The stock Z06 font is wonderful, just woefully dim from the factory.
Gary
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Supporting Vendor
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From: Republic of Texas
perhaps a bad contact I would take the mirror down and clean the contacts and then check the voltage
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: East TX
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
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From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Same voltage as the passenger side would be a likely target voltage, probably 12ish... measure DC voltage between the two sets of contacts. We are assuming that you have a standard mirror using the 212 Festoons??????????
You want to see good clean metal where the bulb makes contact and also where the wires are connected, no corrosion, dried on cola ect... Those Festoon contact fingers can be a real PITA!
Tim
You want to see good clean metal where the bulb makes contact and also where the wires are connected, no corrosion, dried on cola ect... Those Festoon contact fingers can be a real PITA!
Tim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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From: DuBois PA
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Tim
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Instructor
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From: East TX
I have a small issue, I had some led's placed in my DIC and the top one took a dump on me. I spoke to the guy that did the work and he said they are 5mm 20k bulbs that are bright white. He won't be able to send out the led/connector for a bit and I need one by thursday. Is there anyway someone could hook me up and send me one ready to just screw into my DIC?
I can PP you whatever it cost.
Thanks for any help.
I can PP you whatever it cost.
Thanks for any help.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
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From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Yeah, I'm still kicking!!!!!!! I don't hang out on here as much anymore. How have you been doing?????? I haven't watched the weather this morning but I hope that Hurricane leaves you guys alone!
You dump the C5???
Tim
You dump the C5???
Tim
Last edited by tstar; Aug 29, 2012 at 05:26 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Ocean Springs MS
Good to hear. Doing good. Thanks....Hurricane hasn't been too bad where I'm at, mostly a lot of rain, few strong wind gusts and some flooding close to the beach but haven't lost power at all so far...fingers crossed! Lol
No, still have both...you?
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Great info!
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Le Mans Master
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From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Houston
Any1 in north Houston area available to do my hvac for me (LEDs). I just did my resisters for the digital readout and didn't even think about the lights (guess almost all mine are burnt out?
Here's what I ended up with
Here's what I ended up with