Polycarb is the plan. The only suggestion is that when the individual gets them painted, to throw on a layer of Clear-coat to help prevent scratches. Polycarbonate is good for resisting impacts but is slightly more prone to scratching.

 

went to the plastics company today. Thermoforming is our only option however I am planning on using a type of plaster-based instead of an Aluminum mold since production will most likely remain below 100 units. (If we get above that mark, I'm sure I'll have enough $$ to get an aluminum mold made )

The schedule so far looks like this:

Week of Oct 4-10: get Frame back from machine shop. Mark points for drilling and test "locking" adjuster mounts for projectors. Design Mold for Shroud.

Week of Oct 11-17: build Left and right fiberglass mold for shroud. Given the humidity, it will probably be a few days for multiple layers to dry and cure. I recently got a new set of heat lamps that should help the process, but i can only use them as long as I'm in the shop (don't need the place burning down )

Week of Oct 18-24: Take lenses and shroud molds to the plastics company to begin production. Production time should be between 1-2 weeks with most of that being creating the main lens mold.

As of today, I'm starting a GP "spot-saver" Program
Terms and conditions:

1. Members will put non-refundable $500 down to reserve a spot in the first GP. Those with a deposit will receive priority when the GP officially begins and the deposit will be deducted from the total price of the headlight kit.

2. The specific price of the headlight kit has yet to be determined but will not exceed $1500 for the base kit.

3. As thanks for those willing to invest in a product that isn't yet completed, I will extend a discount off the purchase price to those who particiapte in the GP spot-saver program. This offer will apply to anyone who enters the program BEFORE Monday Oct 19.

4. Assuming no glitches in the proposed schedule, production should begin the last week of October at which point I will send out invoices to those who made a down-payment deposit for the remaining balance.

5. Once I have received payment in full, it will take about 1-2 weeks to get in the required parts and assemble them.

Those interested in participating in the “spot saver” Please send an email to: radioflyer97@gmail.com with the email title “Stealth Light Cannons GP Spot saver” and I will put you on the official list.

 

Spot Saver email sent!!! I am so giddy with elation right now it is almost comical!! LOL!!

Steve

 

Deposit check sent!

Steve

 

Update:

Got the prototype mounting bracket from the machine shop. It is insanely sturdy (more than any other C5 headlight design to date (including the stock headlamps) The bracket is designed to mount to the 3 bolts on the front of the fender and one of the large bolts on the outer side of the frame rail for a super strong mounting surface.





The original design of the modules called for a bolt to go through the mounting surface, through a compression spring and into cut grooves in the module mounting point. I didn’t really care for this design for two reasons:
a) such a design is virtually impossible to adjust without special tools (specialized angle Philips screwdriver)
b) The Springs that hold the modules in place might cause headlight “bouncing” (something I’m seeking to completely eliminate in this kit)

My new design uses a #10 stainless bolt through the front of the module mount and into the mounting surface. The module is held in place by a standard nut with split ring washer and 2 nylon locking nuts. Adjusting can be done with a 10mm open end wrench and Phillips head screwdriver. Once the adjustments have been made tightening the nuts effectively locks the module into place. Even the most severe vibration will not shake the adjusters loose…..not to mention it just looks masculine





As shown below, the mounting bracket fits well. I noticed when measuring that the frame rails are not perfectly level. I used the rest of my mounting tape and a leveler to make sure the mounting bracket sits parallel to the floor…..just hope the ground is level…..





My only concern is the miniscule clearance the projectors have relative to the lens when mounted. In addition both projectors seem to be a little too far inward. By moving both projectors towards the outside by about ˝” I gain about 1/8” lens clearance, a better looking mounting bracket, and a more centered looking projector alignment. I will be taking the refined designed to the machine shop tomorrow.

Here are some more shots with the hood closed to show roughly how the finished product will look:

(in this shot: the hood was caught up on a rolled piece of tape being used to hold the lens in place, not the lens itself)

 

YES!!! VERY VERY NICE!!!


Looking forward to the next updates. Shroud?

 

Looks like very little lense rise from the natural line of the hood very nice job.

Might want to shoot a pic from directly across the front bumper, outboard with the view perpendicular to the side of the car and the scope encompassing from the rear of the front tire to the nose of the bumper (straight on side shot), just to show off how nicely the line is continued.

 

This is awesome. Keep up the good work. Those are going to look outstanding!

Thought of a question: Would the inner housing be able to be painted body color???

 

 

Just in the interim, you do realize that he will also have shrouds installed in the finished product ? (what we are looking at is a work up of the mounting brackets, they will be covered by a plastic shroud, you wont see them).

At any rate, Im sure RF will be along shortly but I dont think it appears that the lense will be sealed to the shroud so I would guess you would be able to seperate and paint the shroud if you wanted to.

 

ABS is a paintable material and i plan to have it formed with the smooth side up for easy painting. If you have your painter do both your lenses "eyebrow" and the shroud at the same time, you can probably get a better price too.

The shroud and lens will be two seperate components. At the moment, I intend for them to be two seperate pieces bolted together with a line of weatherstripping making the seal (as opposed to glue or other sealant) This will allow painting of both the shroud and lens.

 

That is a great idea, with glue it can be a major PITA

Have you decided or come up with a price yet? Sorry if it has been mentioned. I believe the last I seen was under $1500? Im trying to stay away from this thread as much as possible but I cant

 

The ballpark is 1000-1500. The final cost should be known in the next 2 weeks as thermoforming the shrouds and lenses is the last and largest unknown cost expense.

 

^ Cool, can't wait to see what the final cost is. Im itching for some projector light's but with my car getting everything installed and painted, there goes a good chunck of change. Oh well sooner or later I will get a set, I definitely like them alot.

 

You mentioned $1,000 - $1,500 not including options. What type of options do you see being available.

Have been following progress and will make a decision by your deadline. GREAT JOB!!

 

I assume this will weigh less than the pop-ups, any idea how much less?

 

A reduction in weight would be an added bonus but the look and performance, in my opinion, supersedes anything else.

Hats off to George as his design humbles the other feeble efforts!!!

 

Halo rings, in blue or white
"evil" halo rings in blue or white
100w halogen high beam upgrade.
Considering some type of DRL option (design is TBA)


The average non pop up kit is a 20 pound total weight savings over a conventional OEM setup. Mostly because the OEM uses a steel sub structure. My kit uses an aluminum sub structure

 

New mounting frames were finished yesterday. I will be mounting them today and doing final measurements for the shroud.

 

Sweet! Thanks for the update!