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Make very sure that the material you choose for the cover will not fade or crack over years of exposure to the sun! Also, it needs to be scratch resistant!
Make very sure that the material you choose for the cover will not fade or crack over years of exposure to the sun! Also, it needs to be scratch resistant!
UV treated material will resist yellowing. Most of the stronger plexi material is scratch resistant. If you paint the eyebrow, adding a layer of clearcoat over the entire lens will also help (did this with my SW lexan lenses and no scratches s far)
Amazing that it's taking homebrew designers to make what the C5 community's been asking for years from the big providers.
I'm sub'd to this and JW's sleepy-eye mod kit threads, as I'm split 50/50 on whether I want the headlights visible but flush, or hidden and then low profile. Either way, you and JW are doing an awesome job and a service to this community which the major providers have totally skimped on. Keep up the great work!
I don't know where the group buy list is but put me on it! Thank you jebus for finally making these lights.
-Steve
I will most likely start a "down-payment" on the GP list in about a week... after i get thee first prototype brackets back from the machine shop. Once i mount the brackets with lights on them, I can get the measurements for the shroud and start that. The shroud mold proceess will probably takee about 2-3 days. From there it's off to the thermoformers to make the first kits
I should have the first kits available by mid-late october (pending thermoforming time) if all goes well.
So far the projected cost per pair will be relatively close to the goal of $1000/kit +/- $100.
The installation will definatly be one of the easiest of all the headlight kits available. Since the Lights do NOT mount to the shroud, they're a LOT more stable and the shroud/lens doesn't have any additional structural streess.
Halos Should be an option but the Audio style DRL is not. I can also do a LED "pod" running light option as well that can double as a turn signal for you guys with aftermarket front bumpers that don't have the corner lights.
If you guys havee any other ideas for "option" packages, let me know
If the final product looks as good as I think it will, I have no problem placing a down payment for said product. I dont mind at all "investing" in the product before it is produced. Especially with a reputable vendor such as yourself.
If you guys havee any other ideas for "option" packages, let me know
Here is what I am hoping to get. Let me know if it is possible.....
HID lows 55w 6000K
HALO's on the low's. Would like the HALO's illuminated whenever the ignition is ON, so I can use them as DRL's along with my stock DRL's.
Cant decide if I want (or need) HID high beams. I dont drive the vette much at night and when I do, it is on populated roads. So I have little need for asphalt melting high beams. But then again if I have an asshat in front of me, maybe a good blinding light source would be a good thing to have .
Keep me posted on the GP so I can jump in on the initial release discount you wil be offering
Here is what I am hoping to get. Let me know if it is possible.....
HID lows 55w 6000K
HALO's on the low's. Would like the HALO's illuminated whenever the ignition is ON, so I can use them as DRL's along with my stock DRL's.
Cant decide if I want (or need) HID high beams. I dont drive the vette much at night and when I do, it is on populated roads. So I have little need for asphalt melting high beams. But then again if I have an asshat in front of me, maybe a good blinding light source would be a good thing to have .
Keep me posted on the GP so I can jump in on the initial release discount you wil be offering
Halos with the DRLs would be possible, but a little complicated wiring. If you run them off the DRLs, they'll flash with the turn signals but will shut off at night. to get them to run when the ignition is on, you'd need to find a circuit (preferably in the underhood fusebox) that's an ignition hot. I"ll see if i can find one tomorrow.
HID high beams aren't the best for blinding people unless you have a bi-xenon projector....which aren't made in this style yet. I plan to offer 100w high beams as an option to HID high beams.
Steve[/QUOTE]
Originally Posted by mosimann
I usually predict the future. Would you like the lottery numbers as well ?
If you give me the winning powerball numbers in advance, i'll give you a set of SLCs for free....hell i'll even fly out there in my new gulfstream V and install them.
Last edited by TheRadioFlyer97; Oct 1, 2009 at 09:54 PM.
Halos with the DRLs would be possible, but a little complicated wiring. If you run them off the DRLs, they'll flash with the turn signals but will shut off at night. to get them to run when the ignition is on, you'd need to find a circuit (preferably in the underhood fusebox) that's an ignition hot. I"ll see if i can find one tomorrow.
Wiring isnt a problem for me. I can build a circuit that has the halos on when ignition is on, and turns the halos off when the headlights are on. No biggie.
I talked to a second plastics shop about thermoforming and they suggested a procedure other than vacuum forming. The biggest problem with vacuum forming a clear lens is that the mold must be mirror polished to prevent imperfections on the inside of the lens. This means BIG $$$ to make the mold itself.
the new shop suggested thermo-blow-molding. It's like a reverse vacuum form except there's no mold needed and there's no risk of imperfections. The startup cost would be SIGNIFICANTLY less too. I'm going over there Monday to see if that's a viable alternative.
I talked to a second plastics shop about thermoforming and they suggested a procedure other than vacuum forming. The biggest problem with vacuum forming a clear lens is that the mold must be mirror polished to prevent imperfections on the inside of the lens. This means BIG $$$ to make the mold itself.
the new shop suggested thermo-blow-molding. It's like a reverse vacuum form except there's no mold needed and there's no risk of imperfections. The startup cost would be SIGNIFICANTLY less too. I'm going over there Monday to see if that's a viable alternative.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
I talked to a second plastics shop about thermoforming and they suggested a procedure other than vacuum forming. The biggest problem with vacuum forming a clear lens is that the mold must be mirror polished to prevent imperfections on the inside of the lens. This means BIG $$$ to make the mold itself.
the new shop suggested thermo-blow-molding. It's like a reverse vacuum form except there's no mold needed and there's no risk of imperfections. The startup cost would be SIGNIFICANTLY less too. I'm going over there Monday to see if that's a viable alternative.
I will be starting the preliminary ordering monday evening. This will secure you a spot in the first GP. The GP will be at minimum 10 sets and a maximum depending on demand and supply.
Guestimated build time for a kit is about 2-4 weeks from order to shipment. Most of this time is the parts beinf fabricated and parts being shipped. The only variable I forsee is the availibility of the projectors knowing that most local companies will not keep such high volumes in stock. The good news is that i can build the entire kit without them while i'm waiting for them to arrive.
Feedback question:
The Projectors are designed with bolt-adjusters and springs that hold them to the mounting surface. While this is stable enough for most vehicles, the corvette had significantly tighter suspension than most other cars. I could build a Spring-less version of the adjustor bolts that would essentially "lock" the projectors into place. The downside is that aiming would be slightly more complicated.
Vote:
Original Spring Adjuster design
"Locking adjuster" design
I will be starting the preliminary ordering monday evening. This will secure you a spot in the first GP. The GP will be at minimum 10 sets and a maximum depending on demand and supply.
SWEET!
Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
Feedback question:
The Projectors are designed with bolt-adjusters and springs that hold them to the mounting surface. While this is stable enough for most vehicles, the corvette had significantly tighter suspension than most other cars. I could build a Spring-less version of the adjustor bolts that would essentially "lock" the projectors into place. The downside is that aiming would be slightly more complicated.
Vote:
Original Spring Adjuster design
"Locking adjuster" design
DEFINATELY "Locking Adjuster" style. IMO, once properly aimed, you almost will never have to "go back in" to adjust. I would rather have a very stable, locked in light source that takes an few extra minutes to aim, than a bouncy, jittery light source. Bouncy, jittery is only cool on a 1987 Honda Civic maybe, but not on the vette
I will offer a free installation to the first person willing to drive their car to my shop for installation. I will take pics and a video of the installation for the official installation guide.
....plus your car will be forever immortalized on CDs to be viewed by all SLC customers.
Will you be making the lenses out of polycarbonate as it's the preferred plastic for headlight lenses?
The following grade is suitable for blow moulding but it seems a little odd that the guys that you're meeting tomorrow are saying that no mould is required.