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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #21  
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You guys,
My car is outside, its rainign, and I can't do anything now. I did some research about those codes and most of the time it's mentioning replacing those TAC and comp. electronic (i forgot the name like tic or dic, mic, cic LOL ), But this is the story. I went to the store, parked the car and want to leave the key on the first position(engine off, my radio on ) in the same second, instead of the motor going off (like the key was on the half way) the engine turned ON. After 10 seconds, I turned everything OFF and went to the store. After 15 min. I came back, started the engine, but did not get anything except that stalling sound. I tried a few times but nothing changed. The engine never fully started. It sounded as if the gas tank was empy but it wasn't. When I entered the key into the ignition and turned it, instead BZZZZZZZZZ of electronic and fuel pump I hear BZZ. jup that is it.

thanks
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #22  
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Im in the same boat as you, I have a 98, same exact codes and symptoms. Everyone said the computer was toast. I sent it off to have it checked and the computer is good and working normally. My next move is to replace the TAC and see if that is the problem. Its either one of the two or both. Trust me, its not the battery, its not the fuses, its not the grounds, its the PCM or the TAC or both. Im hoping to by a TAC from the forum, but they go really super fast when they come available.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by im-vettin-on-it
Im in the same boat as you, I have a 98, same exact codes and symptoms. Everyone said the computer was toast. I sent it off to have it checked and the computer is good and working normally. My next move is to replace the TAC and see if that is the problem. Its either one of the two or both. Trust me, its not the battery, its not the fuses, its not the grounds, its the PCM or the TAC or both. Im hoping to by a TAC from the forum, but they go really super fast when they come available.
I hope we will beat this animal. So far I have tried to pair my keys again(VATS), thinking that it lost the code but I didn't have a blinking security light. That means that that wasn't the problem. Next, I figured out that there was no electricity on my spark plugs and the car keeps acting like the fuel pump isn't working at all. I double checked my grounds and my fuzes. And you are right, they are all fine. Keep me posted on what you do and I will keep you posted. Thanks for joining the party. lol (:

Tony.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #24  
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From: elizabeth city nc
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trust me on this: You arent getting spark and your fuel pump isnt working! I did all the same things, check the vats, checked the battery, checked the grounds, tried disconnecting the battery. As soon as I can get my hands on a TAC module Ill let you know if it fires up. My cars been down a few months now, I hate looking at it knowing its springtime and I cant drive it.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 08:40 PM
  #25  
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THANKS MY FRIEND
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #26  
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Good luck!
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 11:23 PM
  #27  
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 08:40 PM
  #28  
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HOLY HELL What a mess. I almost don't know where to tell you to start but, here goes:

Remove BOTH battery cables! Clean and inspect! Look at the crimp connection under the rubber cover! If all is well reinstall. TORQUE the bolts to 11 ft/lbs.

Turn on the headlights. Motors should both go up and the lights should be bright. Turn lights off. You just checked the main 12 VDC battery buss.

Read this post. In the post, I discuss reading the voltages on specific fuses that are powered by the Ignition Switch "HOT IN RUN AND START" feed. Turn the ignition to ON and check each of those fuses to ground. On top of each fuse are TWO small slots. Those are TEST POINTS.

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html


Each fuse should read full battery voltage. If you have a LOW reading, you need to clean or replace the ignition switch.

In the passengers foot well, you have a fuse box and the BCM. To the LEFT of the BCM are two thin Gray connectors. Those are STAR 1 and STAR 2 serial data buss connectors. One of the connectors has FOUR wires. The top of the connector comes off and theres a shorting strip in the top that connects all the wires together. Remove the top and see if that changes any symptoms. That removed the door modules and the seat module from the serial buss.

Give all that a look see and tell us what you discover...

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Apr 21, 2011 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #29  
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by laurelboy
What the heck is " " for???????????????????????????
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
HOLY HELL What a mess. I almost don't know where to tell you to start but, here goes:

Remove BOTH battery cables! Clean and inspect! Look at the crimp connection under the rubber cover! If all is well reinstall. TORQUE the bolts to 11 ft/lbs.

Turn on the headlights. Motors should both go up and the lights should be bright. Turn lights off. You just checked the main 12 VDC battery buss.

Read this post. In the post, I discuss reading the voltages on specific fuses that are powered by the Ignition Switch "HOT IN RUN AND START" feed. Turn the ignition to ON and check each of those fuses to ground. On top of each fuse are TWO small slots. Those are TEST POINTS.

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html


Each fuse should read full battery voltage. If you have a LOW reading, you need to clean or replace the ignition switch.

In the passengers foot well, you have a fuse box and the BCM. To the LEFT of the BCM are two thin Gray connectors. Those are STAR 1 and STAR 2 serial data buss connectors. One of the connectors has FOUR wires. The top of the connector comes off and theres a shorting strip in the top that connects all the wires together. Remove the top and see if that changes any symptoms. That removed the door modules and the seat module from the serial buss.

Give all that a look see and tell us what you discover...

Bill
WOW!!! So glad we've got such great and generous resources on this forum!
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
What the heck is " " for???????????????????????????
with you. Stay calm Bill. You are a valuable assest to CF! I gain so much knowledge from you here on the site!
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 11:27 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
What the heck is " " for???????????????????????????
LOL and again LLLLOLLLLL
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 08:01 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by laurelboy
Sorry, my mistake, I hit that by mistake, was looking at different threads.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #35  
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The TAC controls your throttle. A Tech 2 could monitor it's various positions to confirm if that is the problem.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
The TAC controls your throttle. A Tech 2 could monitor it's various positions to confirm if that is the problem.
yup 3-4k to buy.... and my car is in a garage (my garage not dealers lol).

but... THANKS

Last edited by tony123; Apr 22, 2011 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by tony123
yup 3-4k to buy.... and my car is in a garage (my garage not dealers lol).

but... THANKS
Who says you have to buy one. Take it to a dealer or shop to figure out what it is.

You don't seem to knowledgeable about these type of issues and it would be in your best interest not to throw money away buying and replacing parts that you don't need.

I happen to own a Tech2, but you're a little far away.




Last edited by ajg1915; Apr 22, 2011 at 01:09 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 12:42 PM
  #38  
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OK thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 11:43 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
HOLY HELL What a mess. I almost don't know where to tell you to start but, here goes:

Remove BOTH battery cables! Clean and inspect! Look at the crimp connection under the rubber cover! If all is well reinstall. TORQUE the bolts to 11 ft/lbs.

Turn on the headlights. Motors should both go up and the lights should be bright. Turn lights off. You just checked the main 12 VDC battery buss.

Read this post. In the post, I discuss reading the voltages on specific fuses that are powered by the Ignition Switch "HOT IN RUN AND START" feed. Turn the ignition to ON and check each of those fuses to ground. On top of each fuse are TWO small slots. Those are TEST POINTS.

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html


Each fuse should read full battery voltage. If you have a LOW reading, you need to clean or replace the ignition switch.

In the passengers foot well, you have a fuse box and the BCM. To the LEFT of the BCM are two thin Gray connectors. Those are STAR 1 and STAR 2 serial data buss connectors. One of the connectors has FOUR wires. The top of the connector comes off and theres a shorting strip in the top that connects all the wires together. Remove the top and see if that changes any symptoms. That removed the door modules and the seat module from the serial buss.

Give all that a look see and tell us what you discover...

Bill
Mr. Bill,
Iwould like to know what you think about the immobiliser. Do I have one on my '98, how does it look, and where is it located?
Thanks
Tony
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by tony123
Mr. Bill,
Iwould like to know what you think about the immobiliser. Do I have one on my '98, how does it look, and where is it located?
Thanks
Tony
Ive never heard or seen one and NO,, there NOT OEM stock what ever it is????!!!


GOOGLED!

http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairm...mmobilizer.pdf

http://www.autothiefs.com/engine-immobilisers.html
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