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Great tires and a good driver. I have experienced wheel hop only 1 time and it happend when I took off and then clutched it to do a rolling burnout. It was minor and nothing broke. Some Billstein Sports will help to tighten up the chassis..
Driver I am! Have thought about some upgraded shocks too....so many wants so little money to accomplish........
Don't go any smaller than 224/228(230) cam, you will regret it. I have a 224/230 cam and it makes power everywhere. I have RPM CNC'd heads and my car makes 450rwhp with LG Streets (see photos for dyno chart). And zero drivability issues. If I had a Z with better gearing I would have went with a little more intake duration, most likely a 230/236 cam. Good luck!
Driver I am! Have thought about some upgraded shocks too....so many wants so little money to accomplish........
Then some Toyo Proxi R888's or RA1's (or similar r compound tire (front and back) I have a 305 on the stock speedlines. and they look like a 315 would have fit without issue as well. and the Billstein Sport shocks are awesome. maybe some poly sway bar mounts and upgraded end links might do you some good in the firming issue as well. But alot of this stuff is going to be fairly useless on the street, for the most part. Launching, shifing and braking will be your top concern.
LOL I have found that no one really wants to race me, and when they do I already knew the outcome. LOL the other day an STi wanted to race me on the highway going 60mph, as soon as I dropped it into 3rd he hit it,,,,at least he though he did...He can tell a schetch arist exactly what the back of a corvette looks like LOL. The C5 Z06 is truely a nasty car..
They are performance machines, now I'm contemplating a Magnacharger? Whats the thoughts on this?
Great low end and mid range power. Max HP is less than a Centri supercharger, and you have to use an aftermarket hood to clear the maggie blower which drives up the overall cost even more.
If memory serves me right a g5x3 is rather large. Mid 230 intake/low 240s exhaust?? Ur gonna.sacrifice lower power for more mid-top end gains. I went through this whole cam delema a while back. Installed a cam, hated it due to loosing low end over stock cam. And went to my current 230/234 on eps intake lobes and comps new lxl exhaust lobe. Trq and power gains everywere and drives well. Very happy now
I have the same cam in my Z. Feels stock almost everywhere until you hit the gas and then the car goes like crazy. I had a cam in my other car that had no power down low and it made me hate the car over time. Now both my cars have Pat G spec cams and I couldn't be happier.
Hmmm? I understand being behind in your workload, however not even a phone call to let a customer know and when they should expect delivery is not satisfactory in my sense.
Hmmm? I understand being behind in your workload, however not even a phone call to let a customer know and when they should expect delivery is not satisfactory in my sense.
I've been following your thread after our phone call..........I wondered what happened................sorry this is case.
A phone call from the vendor takes only a few minutes and minimal effort and unless there are extenuating circumstances as in an emergency.
This seems like very poor customer service. What once was, may not still be. I hope that's not the case but we all know how one good customer affects how many and how one unhappy customer can affect so many more.
Why is the vendor reluctant to communicate? I hope this story has a happy ending..........
This is what a Nitrous progressive controller takes care of.
With one of these connected to your car you can program the system to slowly introduce nitrous as low as 2000rpm at WOT, hitting the full (lets say 100hp) at 3500 then slowly reducing the charge again till it is completly off at 5500rpm, shift, start over because you can program every gear. It would work with the driver and eliminate human error of a button. Besides you only need it for 2nd/3rd and 4th maybe 5th depending on the gear ratio in the rear diff.
This way of introducing nitrous to an engine causes less stress on the entire drive line and rotating assemble than a system with an instant shot. Honestly what is the difference of having a large cam that hits 350 rwtq to the tires at 3500rpm and hits peak tq at 4500 vs, a 100hp nitrous shot that slowly makes 400rwtq at 3500 rpm and builds up to 425lbt at 5000rpm
The Difference is the nitrous will walk the cam car every time
If used smartly Nitrous will cause less stress on your engine/clutch/transmission and rear diff.. Better drivability and better MPG for less money. But in the end, create more HP/TQ, and Nitrous makes way more TQ than HP for any given jet#.
A moderate to large cammed engine consistently creates the same stress during everyday driving, less MPG and sometimes not the best drivability depending on the tune, but no matter the tune a large cam reduces ease of driveability......
No more complicatingof a set up than a stereo system....
What happens when the bottle runs out?
What happens if the bottle's not warmed up and you don't have good bottle pressure?
What happens if you don't want to keep dropping coin for expensive nitrous refills that aren't available just anywhere?
Been there, done that, I'd rather have the cam. Actually, I'd rather Supercharge it. Little more expensive, but worth it...
What happens when the bottle runs out?
What happens if the bottle's not warmed up and you don't have good bottle pressure?
What happens if you don't want to keep dropping coin for expensive nitrous refills that aren't available just anywhere?
Been there, done that, I'd rather have the cam. Actually, I'd rather Supercharge it. Little more expensive, but worth it...
I have too and will never go back to running nitrous...My MSD timing retard failed on a H/C/I nitrous'd mustang coupe I had years ago. I was lucky it only cost me a set of valves and not the motor.