Great - that was exactly the answer I needed

I hate to "leave" such wires and stuff - if they dont have any purpose.

 

I´m not doing that much progress these weeks as I´m waiting for the last parts (being shipped fra VA next week and should arrive in Denmark mid december).

It includes

• Vettenuts insulation kit
• New plastic moldings around the doors (mine are not cracked yet, but I would hate to install everything, and then see a crack next summer)
• New headlight bump stops and bronze gear kit from Rodney Dickman (I only needed one of the bump stops but again it seems to be a good opportunity to install new ones and upgrade to bronze gears)
• The Steinjäger extreme HD end links kit (priced well and seems to be worth trying - and if I´m not happy, they will be replaced later).

Besides that I´ve ordered lots of new rubber moldings, trim screws and all the stuff that takes it from "nice" to "perfect" (and expensive)

I hope to make some progress during Christmas and new year - as I have an extended holiday this year.

Early in the project I found some beginning rust on the rear frame bar - so I´ve spend the waiting time on sanding and repainting front and rear bar. So far I´m pretty happy with the result.

 

I´ve started to work on the radiator shroud - as I want to make a custom aluminum shroud to replace the OEM plastic. It will make a much more air tight fit around my Dewitt radiator - and I can make some attachment points inside in the lower part to fasten some mesh.

Doing the disassembly I realized that previous owner might have installed the Elite catch can wrong? The PCV valve on the manifold is connected to the inlet of the can - and the valley cover is connected to the outlet of the can. As I understand the instructions from Elite´s website the valley cover is inlet and the intake manifold is outlet on a 2001 LS6. Am I right that it is connected the wrong way? Here is the picture as installed by previous owner:



Could this has done any damage to the engine? Or anything to take care about now? I´m not that skilled into our engines - so any advice (even the most simple) will help

There seems to be a lot of oil in the TB - is it normal, or caused by the catch can connected wrong?

 

Is there oil in the can? Have you emptied it?

 

There is some oil in the can, but I´m having a hard time opening it (I had a shop to perform the last oil change, and they have for sure screwed it hard in).

I´ve read that it can help putting the assembly in the freezer, as the aluminum will crimp and then heaten up the top with a hair dryer when trying to un-screw it.

 

I´ve finally received the last parts - and now I have everything needed to complete the assembly



Tomorrow I will begin installing the insulation kit from Vettenuts, and doing the final mods to the harness (e.g. new hidden antenna behind the rear fascia & harness for future rear exhaust plate).

My plan is to get everything from rear fascia to the doors assembled during the next two weeks.

 

Yesterday I began installing the insulation kit fra VetteNuts - never tried something like that before (so I have no reference), but it was as easy as it gets. I was one step ahead as my interior was already removed.



I like the result - though I might used more tape and spend more time detailing the edges than most would do







The carpet is re-installed again - fits nice and doesn´t reveal the extra material.

 

Nice! The insulation is a nice touch while you had it all apart.

 

That is going to be one clean C5. Totally restored. Awesome!

 

The fun has started...- assembly

So far the rear part is 98% finished. I only need to mount the right side tail lights, when the new antenna is installed, but all other lights are in place. I really like the clean look of the halo mod tail lights from Radioflyer installed next to my custom black painted license plate mounting board - only the screw´s in the license plate itself is visible.







I planned to use this clear LED brake light, but IMO it just doesnt fit in with the halo tail lights. So I ended up re-installing the OEM brake light - which much better matches the design of the tail lights.





The brake ducts looks awesome in gloss black. They will get hit by rocks, but it´s always a risk being glossy
But the fenders really need the big rims...- the 295´s look skinny in there.



Next step is installing all the hardware in the doors and deck lid, adjust doors and lid - and work my way forward to the front fascia. And the wait for spring and sunshine - to take some nice photos outside where the paint can reflect the sun

 

Have you looked into getting a clear bra/paint protection?

 

^I was thinking that would work on the brake scoops too.

 

Can't wait to see the finished product!!

 

I´m not planning any bra/protection for the front fascia and mirrors - but I´ve thought about doing the clear protection folia on the inside of the wheel arches and for the brake ducts. Haven´t figured the exact scheme yet, but I guess it will be something that look as invisible as possible.

Thanks for your inspiration

 

^ You're welcome.

If getting the ducts wrapped on that day it would be wise to remove the duct and have it and the rocker panel area wrapped while separated. It will be a cleaner job and easier for the technician.

 

Had to clean up the garage before new years evening and get everything packed up - as I unfortunately do have limited space in the garage...



But now the DD is out again, and I´ve continued the built.



The rear part is all done (sorry for the lack of new pictures) including the new antenna hidden behind the passenger side tail lights. I really like the clean look with out making a hole through the fender - even though you can get some very short antennas. I still need to install the carravaggio rear spoiler but that will be one of the last steps in the built.

I´ve moved along and started installing all the hardware in the doors. It´s a pretty tight fit and I need to get room for the insulation kit too.

I will need some good advice setting the Stance coilover kit. The installation will be done later and looks pretty forward - but I could really use some experience in "settings" as I do want it to be low, but I dont want the fenders to hit the tires. My goal is a rear stance around 1,5 inch from tire to fender, and I´ve read many comments about using a setting between 8-12 out of 16. I would really like, if anybody could share their experience in setting coilovers with 345-tires and wide fenders. I dont like drilling a hole on top of the rear shock mounts - so I hope to be able to make the final installation at first attempt. I will start another threat with the subject - but please chime in here too if you have any good advice.

 

Got the doors assembled today and the glass installed - only thing left is the speakers, but I´ll wait with those until the weatherstrip around the door opening is installed (in case I need to make adjustments to the glass). The insulation is installed inside the door skin - was very easy and the fitment was great (simple but amazing kit from vettenuts)





The little clip/retainer on the lock cylinder (drivers side) was a PIA to mount - not enough room for many tools - but after doing it once, it seems pretty forward to do again.



The factory had installed some sort of material to close the access holes in the doors - but I found these rubber plugs at Cultrag, that fits very nice - and best of all: they are not sticky and its very easy to get access (part no. 10283990). You need 4 for each door.



I´m not sure about the clear rear marker lights - but have to decide finally when the built is finished and see how it looks together with the clear front side markers. For now the rear markers seems pretty "visible" - maybe a little tint could be the solution - whats your opinion?







I need to access some accessory power - and I found these 3 wires tucked away in the passenger side (only wrapped together with some black tape). Is it correct that the yellow is switched power and the orange is hot? I would really like to use these instead of taping into an OEM circuit (I like to keep any add-on´s away from the OEM electronics).

 

My vote is to stay away from the clear rear side markers, they break up the otherwise clean flow of the body.


Yes, the orange should be hot all the time, yellow is switched, and black is ground.

 

Some of the circuits stay hot for a few seconds after you turn off the key or open the door, like the stock stereo. Those wires had something to do with the wiring of the 6 disc changer option.

for more current you can use an "add a circuit" adapter.

 

I like red. Cleaner look.