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[Z06] Valve spring replacement

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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 05:19 PM
  #61  
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oh Im sure they will. But now I have to go to sears before I can keep going.

But I also now ordered all new rocker studs b/c I just dont trust these to put them back in there.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 07:40 PM
  #62  
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Bought a new impact socket from Lowe’s on the way home from work. And 2 seconds later everything was done.

those craftsman sockets are crap I guess.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MBVette
oh Im sure they will. But now I have to go to sears before I can keep going.

But I also now ordered all new rocker studs b/c I just dont trust these to put them back in there.


Good move. I was thinking of suggesting that.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 11:42 PM
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I dont get it... mine came out super easy... just did them last week....
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 06:02 PM
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So I’m obviously a moron or something bc I can’t figure this thing out. It doesn’t seem to compress the springs enough to get the retainers out. Am I doing something wrong here. I’m getting really frustrated with this whole thing now.
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MBVette


So I’m obviously a moron or something bc I can’t figure this thing out. It doesn’t seem to compress the springs enough to get the retainers out. Am I doing something wrong here. I’m getting really frustrated with this whole thing now.
Hard to tell from that picture. Can you take one from a different angle? I'm guessing you already ran the nut all the way down?

Steve
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 06:52 PM
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That’s back not conrpressed again didn’t want to leave it under tension. And that first pick was all the way down. I’m sure I’m doing something stupid but I just don’t get it
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:04 PM
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One thing I noticed is you should have some washers under those 2 allen head bolts because it kinda looks like the blue part is being pulled up at an angle. Is the plate compressing the springs hitting the blue part before springs are fully compressed?

Steve

Last edited by killian96ss; Dec 15, 2017 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Correction
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:07 PM
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Are the allen bolts tightened diwn all the way?

Steve
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:10 PM
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Not in that pic they are not tight. Ok so that’s where the washers go. I’ll go give it a shot with the washers there
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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The tool your using is very different than the one I used, lol.

Steve

Last edited by killian96ss; Dec 15, 2017 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Correction
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:24 PM
  #72  
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I’m pretty sure this tool is crap and won’t work. I tried flipping it over and there just is no way to tighten it down.




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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:27 PM
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with the nut loose you need to run the threaded rod all the way down until it bottoms out, then start tightening the nut and it should press down on the plate which will compress the springs and release the locks... the big washer probably needs to go under the nut, the smaller washer looks like it should go on the allen bolt on the right side (the one that is slotted)

Last edited by StingrayRebel; Dec 15, 2017 at 07:29 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:33 PM
  #74  
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Nope doesn’t remotely work. The way it’s facig which I consider upside down will compress a little bit not nearly enough.

The other way just rocks on the screw hole between the springs and can’t do anything at all. So friggen pissed off rigt now.
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:58 PM
  #75  
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the first pic looked correct except needing a washer on the slotted hole and threading the rod down before tightening the nut... the tool I have is not exactly the same but very similar and it works fine
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 08:21 PM
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The blue base plate does look right in the first pic. Next the threaded rod goes into the base plate, then the compressor plate, large washer and finally the nut. Make sure you don't have a nut between the base plate and the compressor plate and also make sure the 2 mounting bolts aren't too long which would cause them to bottom out before the base plate is fully tightened down. In your pics it looks like the base plate is crooked. When you compress the top plate does it go all the way down until it is flush with the base plate?

Steve
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 11:34 PM
  #77  
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Yeah so the conpression piece goes down and hits the blue piece and it’s not compressed down enough to come close to getting the retainers off. That’s why I think something is wrong
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 11:48 AM
  #78  
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After looking at the pics I'm going to jump in here and offer up my 2 cents worth (probably wrong). I looked at my tool and it doesn't have the upward bevel on the vertical part of the "T" shaped base plate. It looks like this upward bevel on yours causes the compression plate to bottom out on the base plate before the springs are compressed enough to free up the retainers.Are you sure yours is for an LS engine? At any rate, may I suggest that you place a couple of spacers between the valve hats and the bottom of the compression plate? I think this would allow enough space to allow the springs to compress enough to clear the retainers from the valve stem. I would make sure there is a big enough hole in the washer to be able to access the retainers and the washers were wide enough to sit securely on the hats. Without being there (which I would like to be to give you a hand but I live 1200 miles away) I'd guess that 3/8" space would be sufficient. If not you could add more washers. Hopefully I wrote this clearly enough to help. Keep us posted on your progress!

Last edited by glbeauchamp; Dec 16, 2017 at 11:49 AM.
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 12:06 AM
  #79  
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 12:18 AM
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notice how far he threaded the rod down
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