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I've done both. Although I have data for the SD80's, I just don't like them. When you look closely at how they behave at small pulses, it gets ugly. Worse, the ugliness is not consistent. The other ~80# Bosch injector options out there seem to do better than the SD units for small pulse consistency. If the injector isn't consistent, even the best data is just the "average of a mess".
You live & you learn!
For those of us that already have SD-80's, how might we get access to it?
Loving this thread as I'm about to do the same thing on my 01. Lots a good technical stuff to look thru. I'm planning on the A&A kit with the standard pully. doing the Harmonic Balancer and water pump while we have it apart. I just emailed them with a few questions. I do have a question on the tune. I've been told to get a tune from a vendor or it will start but not be able to drive it anywhere. anyone heard that? We are planning on doing the install ourselves and I want to be able to have a good starting point when we fire it up.
Loving this thread as I'm about to do the same thing on my 01. Lots a good technical stuff to look thru. I'm planning on the A&A kit with the standard pully. doing the Harmonic Balancer and water pump while we have it apart. I just emailed them with a few questions. I do have a question on the tune. I've been told to get a tune from a vendor or it will start but not be able to drive it anywhere. anyone heard that? We are planning on doing the install ourselves and I want to be able to have a good starting point when we fire it up.
General consensus is leave the injectors for last and drive it to the tuner. It'll drive normal, just stay out of the pedal/boost. As long as you stay out of the pedal, the extra air is bypassed right out of the bypass valve. Swap injectors at the tuner's place and tune away.
I wouldn't really recommend it, but you can also start the car with the injectors installed and drive it enough to get it on a trailer to take to a tuner. We did that on mine. Wasn't ideal, but the whole situation wasn't ideal, and it worked fine haha.
I am also planning on doing the A&A kit. Here is a small world tidbit. I am having the kitchen retiled, the installer shows up in a F250 with an A&A sticker in the back window. We start talking about Vettes when he sees mine and I ask about the sticker on his window. Turns out his brother IS A&A, he started the company.
I have the ECS kit and I highly recommend it. I have had it on for 6 years and 30,000 miles. The kit comes with everything that you need, including fuel, and will make 500 whp on an otherwise stock set up. I had headers, full exhaust, an MSD Air Force intake manifold, and a LS3 silver blade 90mm throttle body and made 561whp/560wtq. I have a Dewitt's radiator/dual fans on the front end and MCCleod RST clutch on the back end. I added a Texas Speed blower cam and went up to 633whp/597wtq. At this point I started having engine temp issues (I live in Charlotte, so 90+ degree days are common) so I added a Meziere electric water pump and that solved that. The power is extremely controllable, more so than a roots type blower in my opinion, with a significantly lower gas mileage penalty. I haven't broken anything, but I don't do digs at the drag strip. I'm running 325/30/19's on the rear, it's easy to break the tires loose, but it's also easy to get a good launch.
Pinning the crank tonight and hopefully start throwing some parts on
keep us updated
I just ordered mine from A&A yesterday with the black head unit. V3 Si with the 50mm Raceport . It will be a few weeks out in the Que but in no real big hurry. I'm thinking hard at that MSD intake though.
A&A is an excellent choice.
Ingredients.
*A&A V3Si Kit, 3.6 Pulley
*100% Stock LS1. Stock exhaust Manifolds, Stock Cam.
*LS6 Springs.
* Blended my fuel to E-33 = VERY CLOSE TO 600 RWHP on Dynojet. 100% streetable
I just ordered mine from A&A yesterday with the black head unit. V3 Si with the 50mm Raceport . It will be a few weeks out in the Que but in no real big hurry. I'm thinking hard at that MSD intake though.
I did the black too with ti and 50mm , i asked if an intake and tb would help I was told no
No need for I/TB behind boost. Guys run 9s with four digit rw on port matched LS6 pieces.
Ken - great numbers my man!
You've got that LS1 dialed about right. Enjoy that sweet spot because the next levels if you go there start getting expensive and you end up with an entirely different car.
No need for I/TB behind boost. Guys run 9s with four digit rw on port matched LS6 pieces.
Ken - great numbers my man!
You've got that LS1 dialed about right. Enjoy that sweet spot because the next levels if you go there start getting expensive and you end up with an entirely different car.
Thanks!! and I agree that much more on a SBE and the odds quickly tilt against you that it will stay together.
