Not a bad fab job at all. Think it would it be possible to just whack off the front of the stock mid section even with the end of the headers and use band clamps to join them? Under a grand is nice but I want to maximize my $. If I approached a grand I would much rather have some LG Street Series which would go all the way to the rear section, no cutting no welding(although this would not include high flow cats for that price).

 

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The weld area is normally the high stress point. Even thought it's called Stainless it will discolor from high exhaust temps. You can have the Jet-Hot coating applied that will keep the finish and reduce underhood temps.

 

where were the o2 bungs at originally?

 

From the pics it looks like these headers have some nice welds.
David.

 

Not that simple to just cut off the stock mid-pipes. If you do away with the cats you'll need reducer/transition pipes to get from the 3" headers to the 2.5" mid-pipes.

 

The bungs were in a the right area they should have been rotated about 15 degrees for the sensors to clear structure.

 

i have stock piping all the way back ot my corsa's.. what other materials were required to finish the install? and price?

 

I bought a set of shorties for my '97 from e-bay. Pace Setters is the name of the company out of AZ. I had mine ceramic coated. I paid less than $400.00 for them and they fit nicely and sound good with my Hi-Flo cats, X-pipe and ZO6 Ti exhaust. The ceramic coating is holding up nicely..

 

Is it possible to rotate the O2 bungs (DIY install) so no cutting/welding is required?

 

Can't wait to get my headers

 

Can someone who has bought these tell me what the outlet diameter is and whether the headers will mate with factory exhaust? Also, is a band type compression clamp used to hold the header/cat together or what?

Charlie

 

Nope, the bungs are welded in place and have to be plugged with a threaded plug and the headers have to be re-drilled and new bungs welded in. You might be able to use the existing locations, if you installed the sensors before you bolted the headers to the engine, but you couldn't replace them without unbolting the headers.

 

I am planning on not using cats. Would plugging the existing O2 bungs and using O2 sims work? Thanks

 

word of advise .. wrap the 02 sensor cable / connectors in heat resistance material.


otherwise .. clean install.

 

You have to have the front O2s functional or you will have driveability problems. You can SIM the rear O2s, but you shouldnt need to looking at these headers as long as you run CATs. If you dont run CATs, you can SIM the rear O2s or have them programmed out when you get the car tuned.

 

Hey All,

We are doing a set of these right now and I can give you my .02 on this product.

From the top everything looks good and a nice fit. High polish and nice TIG welds. Time will tell how they last. Underneath is VERY disappointing to say the least, but these are $300 headers. The height variance from right to left at the collector is about 7/8" with the LS collector being very low.

The brackets at the collector that go to the bell housing are approx 1.00" too far back to bolt up and agin the LS bracket is about 7/8" lower then the RS. Very sad.

The LS oxygen sensor contacts the bell housing as mentioned here. I see that RPM did a quick fix by locating the sensor at what apprears to be where the bell housing brackets use to be. I personally would prefer the proper top location but they probably did not want to remove the LS header for the sensor relocate.

Again, it is very sad quality as far as fit, but they are $300 and not much more should be expected. Our customer will end up with approx $1200 into these headers to make them proper and that is with off road pipes. I guess we could do it cheaper by moving the oxygen sensor location to what RPM has and use aluminized steel for the pipes, but we prefer to stick with stainless and TIG welding as well as a proper fit. We will most likely also cut and re-weld the LS collector for proper height.

Hopefully down the road these cheap imitations of TPIS and JetHot will not fall apart. Hope this info helps some folks.

Mike Norris

 

Interesting that the one side was that low, because we all were happy to see how well mine aligned. Could have used the existing rear bellhousing mounting bracket by turning it 180, but decided that the bungs were more important than the mounting tabs which would probably crack anyway and as you said, we didn't want to drop the headers again.

 

im very interested to see more about this. Not often oes a product that costs way way less than comparable products actually deliver. I am thinking about getting a set because the set i bought a year ago are not stainless and i really want the stainless look

 

I guess you get what you pay for 99% of the time