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Ebay LT finished today. Paid $540 total (headers, 3 sets of clamps, hi-flow cats, reducers). I re-used my h-pipe and gaskets. I just added nuts to the exisiting air tube bolts because the header flange had no threads. Not neccessary to relocate 02 bungs. The flange to the bellhousing did not match up. Passenger side was easier than driver side. I screwed in the 02 to the passenger header before sliding it in. The driver side had to slide in first, then screw in the 02 before mounting the header screws. The steering wheel shaft had to out of the way which was easy. I cut the h-pipe at end (where the weld was) of the old cats. The h-pipe did not line up straight but thanks to the before and after clamps of the cats made it possible. Thanks to all the forum members for trying these headers first and giving all the info to make this mod work. I took some pics but don't know how to post it.
Ebay LT finished today. Paid $540 total (headers, 3 sets of clamps, hi-flow cats, reducers). I re-used my h-pipe and gaskets. I just added nuts to the exisiting air tube bolts because the header flange had no threads. Not neccessary to relocate 02 bungs. The flange to the bellhousing did not match up. Passenger side was easier than driver side. I screwed in the 02 to the passenger header before sliding it in. The driver side had to slide in first, then screw in the 02 before mounting the header screws. The steering wheel shaft had to out of the way which was easy. I cut the h-pipe at end (where the weld was) of the old cats. The h-pipe did not line up straight but thanks to the before and after clamps of the cats made it possible. Thanks to all the forum members for trying these headers first and giving all the info to make this mod work. I took some pics but don't know how to post it.
The same pretty much goes for me. I originally stated that I had purchased extensions for the o2's, but ended up not using them, because the stock harnesses were able to be relocated along side the bell housing, and reached the new o2 positions just fine. As for the o2's, the passenger side was fine, but I moved the driver's side. It was just a little bit too tight for my likings. The center connection pipe supplied slipped right onto the ends of the collectors, however, the tab on the passenger side didn't line up to the bell housing.
Everything on the top side fit perfectly, there's just a few small things on the bottom that aren't perfect - but shouldn't result in a much higher install fee. AS for the connection pipes, I had a local shop fab two, slightly offset sections of pipe that I welded into the Connector that was supplied with the headers, and that slips into my XR-1 center section at the other end. YEP - she's loud, but only when I get on it.
Weld and polish work was VERY good on my set. And bear in mind that I come from a family that has all been welders for 65+ years.
So hopefully those, plus:
And a couple of clamps, will make for a VERY simple no-weld install (since I don't want to weld the mild-steel adapters onto the stainless-steel headers or stock stainless-steel H-pipe. I'll probably just have the adapters thermal coated and clamp them into place.
I finally got mine yesterday they look great.... I have a few questions for those of you who have installed these. Can I use the stock cats with these, If I do retain the stock converters how much work involved. Im going to install in my garage Ive done headers before on c-3s and c-4s just wondering what Im up against....cutting welding ?????
Thanks for any input
Rich
I finally got mine yesterday they look great.... I have a few questions for those of you who have installed these. Can I use the stock cats with these, If I do retain the stock converters how much work involved. Im going to install in my garage Ive done headers before on c-3s and c-4s just wondering what Im up against....cutting welding ?????
Thanks for any input
Rich
I too have bought a set of these headers from Ebay. And they look great. (Still in the box) I done some home work on the stainless steel that has been used on these because it was a different grade then you normally see being used. I felt like these headers used a better suited grade for the application then about all of the rest I had seen. Sence this grade is used in aircraft exhaust I guess I will just have to fly low. These may be some type of knock off because they don't have a CARB number. In my state that won't hurt me yet. They look as good of quaitly as any headers I have seen.
As far as the cost being less then what we have been seeing, we need to understand. When we buy from our local and supporting venders we should get better service, better products with better warranties and better after the sale support. It all gets down to where you think your money is best spent. I like saving money but I would not even think of buying any thing in this manner if it had any chance of causing any type of true failure. You better beleave when buying any type of hard used part or moving part I will be calling on my local or supporting vender.
Last edited by willig72; Jun 14, 2006 at 07:42 PM.
The car drove fine for a week after installing these headers. Now I am getting a check engine light. The code is P0430. I did a search and it points towards either a bad cat or the rear O2 sensor and I don't know which side. My guess is a bad cat or a leak but the car drives fine with the code. I tried clearing it and it keeps coming back after 30min of driving.
The car drove fine for a week after installing these headers. Now I am getting a check engine light. The code is P0430. I did a search and it points towards either a bad cat or the rear O2 sensor and I don't know which side. My guess is a bad cat or a leak but the car drives fine with the code. I tried clearing it and it keeps coming back after 30min of driving.
Any one else getting any codes??
Thanks for the info George
The car drove fine for a week after installing these headers. Now I am getting a check engine light. The code is P0430. I did a search and it points towards either a bad cat or the rear O2 sensor and I don't know which side. My guess is a bad cat or a leak but the car drives fine with the code. I tried clearing it and it keeps coming back after 30min of driving.
What cats are you using, stock or Hiflo? I've heard some Hiflo's don't get hot enough for the rear sensors to defect a difference in the amount of O2 and will give a code. You can get a pair of O2 rear sensor simulators or have a tuner turn off the rear sensors to eliminate codes. I've got over 1K miles on mine with no problems, but that's what I do if that code shows up.
I'm using cheap hi-flow cats; I'll keep driving with the check engine light for now. After H/C install (hopefully by the end of this year), then tune the rear 02 out.