Dave

What do you think about placing a layer or two of this material inside the AMW or Elite can just below the metal mesh they have in the coalescing chamber ????


DH

 

Howie, I think the better way to do it would be to connect the low-flow coalescing filter in-line with the catch can via a pipe nipple. The coelescing filter assembly without bracket is about $35 - (company price) and a pipe nipple is a few bucks. The reason why I suggest this scenario is because it may be difficult to obtain a circular disc-sheet of borosilicate fiber that you can somehow attach to the catch can top.
Even if you don't have a catch can at all, it might be cheaper to buy a particulate filter to trap the liquid oil, a coaelescing filter to trap aerosols, and a larger can for the particulate filter. (I'm hoping that my extended can fits the particulate filter.) I will check into the particulate filter if my filter gets clogged. So far after almost 500 miles, it is doing very well.

Dave

 

Dave

I was also thinking about replacing my Husky's (I hear that the polycarbonate can creep ) with your little babies. I have one after the AMW in the PCV line. And the other in the vent line from valve cover.

So you have checked and you dont have any restriction...right. And are you catching oil....how much??


DH

 

After 450 miles or so, I saw about 1/4-3/8 oz. My guess is that there may be more in the tubing, which is a couple of feet long. You might want to place one of these after your AMW can which I'm sure is allowing the majority of aerosols to pass through. Since your AMW would be catching most of the bulk liquids, the small can of the stock Watts coalescing filter assembly may be sufficient.
My filter has a flow capacity of 8 SCFM (227 LPM) and I measured approx. 36 LPM, using a digital flowmeter (calibrated for nitrogen, but close enough for this measurement) that was plumbed in-line with the PCV valve. Therefore. I know that it does have plenty of extra capacity.

Dave

 

Where do I look for this "stock Watts" filter. Thought you made this thing....??


DH

 

Perhaps if we used a high voltage electrostatic field driven by a flux capacitor we could develop the ultimate NASA catch can. Then we could leave the drain cracked open so it would be self purging.
Sorry-

 

I made the extended length can. The other parts shown in one of my pics, along with a cast zinc "can" were all part of the package that I bought for $45. For most C5 owners, the zinc housing, which holds only 1 oz, is too small. However, it may be okay if it is downstream of a particulate filter or your catch can, assuming that the bulk liquids will be trapped before reaching the Watts filter.

The Watts filter number is F501-02DH (without bracket) and you might be able to hard-couple it to your catch can. As I mentioned earlier, I can get them for about $38 (no bracket) and $43 (with bracket). If you order them, yourself, they may be 25% higher in price.


....all for $3000 and some change!

 

Dave

I'm thinking they are not much heavier than the Husky. So I could just splice them in to the 3/8 hose as I do now with the Husky. They stay in place as I have hoses ziptied.





DH

 

 

Howie,

It may even be lighter, since it is smaller in size. You can always get the longer can later if need-be.

Dave

 

Dave

I could not find the filter on the Watts site. Nor did a google of the part # F501-02DH get me any results ... ?????


DH

 

Howie,

Go to http://www.wattsfluidair.com/catalogs/0714W_MiniFRL.pdf

and select "Air Line Coalescing Filters - miniature F501"

Distributor = Numatic Engineering (818) 768-1200

Dave

 

 

Got a suggestion for you Dave. In addition to using an extra AMW mounting bracket, I used some 3M double sided tape for mounting the can. I broke a drill bit trying to drill into that steel (side) frame and remember: that front crossbar is worse (hardened steel)
So far so good with the tape and the extra bracket helps distribute the load of the can.
Robert

 

Yikes! Thanks for the heads-up, Lonestar. I may try a carbide drill, but drilling at an angle, even with a right-angle attachment, is bound to be frustrating. I did order a right-angle attachment for $15 at Cummins Tool. The last think I want is a filter banging around in the engine bay, near the fans. I noticed that there is an oblong hole in that front crossbar. Maybe a snap-in plastic piece would do the trick.....Mmmmm...I'll have to check it out, further.

Dave

 

Thanks Dave

I'm going to give those guys a call (818) might be in my neck of the woods.

Very detailed specs they provide. I did notice that orifice is only 1/4 inch not 3/8. Did I read this correctly?

They do have flow rates for the saturated filter eliment but I'm not sure how to read that. What do you make of it.


DH

 

I cannot believe all the responses on this topic, that has been beaten to death 67 times! But it IS an important issue. I dont think you will ever stop all the oil from getting to the intake, unless you disconnect the PCV system from the intake & TB, and go with breathers.

I think the filters in the seperators are gonna slow down air flow, no matter what type of filter it is, especially when they get saturated with oil. Naturally, if you slow the flow of air down enough, you will get less oil in the intake. I say do a 2 can system with a glass fuel filter, with a little breather element in it, right before the intake, so you can monitor and see when oil is starting to make it's way through.

I have a seperator first, minus a filter stone, & mounted to the battery shield. This catches ALOT of oil! My AMW is 2nd and mounted near the air shroud so it can stay cooler and work more efficiently. Then is the glass filter with element for monitering the system. It all works well, but if not maintaned, oil will get into your motor! I do about 300 miles a week and need to drain my cans every 2 weeks or so!

 

Hey Dave.....

I called the place you referenced above. They have to order the filter. Its $52 plus unknow shipping charges. The filter eliment itself is $29


DH

 

Howie,

When differential pressure reaches 10 psi, it's time to replace the filter. However, you should not have to do that for a good long time, especially in your situation. The 1/4 NPT opening is rated for 8 SCFM - way more than our PCV line will ever see. It's better to use a low-flow filter; otherwise, many aerosols will pass through the larger, courser filter media. I can get a 25% discount because the company for which I work does business with that distributor.

This is not true in the sense that very small flow abborations cannot be noticed, drivability-wise. These filters are designed to flow air at more than 8 CFM. Our LS1 and LS6 PCV lines see flows that don't exceed 1 CFM. This means that even if the filter gets clogged enough to reduce its maximum flow 50%, it still has plenty of flow capacity. They are also designed to allow condensed oil to drop down into the bowl where it cannot impede flow (as long as it doesn't reach the filter element). The problem with using a catch can with stainless steel mesh is that it cannot trap many of the aerosols. Borosilicate glass fiber is much better at doing this.

And actually you CAN trap virtually all of the oil, if you are a true fanatic. There are charcoal filters that when used downstream of standard coalescing filters, will trap oil molecules so small that you wouldn;t even be able to smell them. Of course, this would be totally unneccessary, as you'd be changing all kinds of filters, all too often.

 

Without reading or doing any research I know what GM is trying to do ... make this new "PCV valve" the same 2 mm diameter flow restriction that is built into the LS2 and LS6 valley covers. They have no external "PCV valve".