Guys, I apologize for not knowing about the Alarm being locked by the door lock button and giving some bad information there. That's something that never even occured to me to try (guess what I'm going to go do when I get home). I really never would have guessed that would have been a feature. Probably makes getting the system to work overall a little easier though. What perplexes me though is why if it arms when you press the button does it not go off when unlocking and opening with a key, but if armed with the fob it goes off when using the key (I've been there before). When I first got the car, the fob battery was bad, so all I was using was the key and I was getting zero indication of the alarm arming when locking with the door switch. Once I got the fob working I tested the alarm like I'd do on my T/A, by arming and then opening the door with the key, which set it off. Just never occured to me that the alarm might be tied into the door switch. Thanks a ton for bringing that to light.

As far as I know, yes and yes. Will be testing this theory today possibly, within a week for sure (sunday is best probablity if not tonight).

Quite successful, with random failures like any aftermarket part.

Any number of members here (myself included) own service manuals with wiring schematics that we can photo or scan in. I'll get you the 99 model year ignition schematic tonight hopefully and get it to you.

Dre99GSX, did you ever think about selling a "basic" kit for those cars that might not be involved and for the people who are DIYers, like the F-Body or 6th Gen Celica's (see where I'm going with this, I have one of each)??? A kit that does it all, but the buyer is responsible for installing correctly and assumes liability..... just a thought.

 

 

I'm running low on mods to buy so he'll sell at least one of them lol.

I think between $500 and $700 is fine if I never need my key again.

 

interesting; makes sense.

 

Interesting reading!! I'm all for innovative stuff like this. I just put a remote hatch popper on my motorcycle wired to it's remote start

 

If I was a large vendor/producer, this could definitely cost less. But, most of the parts I buy are ready made and themselves contain markup (such as the antennae, some small circuits that allow RFID communication, etc). The most expensive parts are the button, the keyfob with integrated key, and tooling to cut some of the plastic parts. I can only order 10 or 20 at a time of these parts since I don't have unlimited funding. If these pick up and sell well, then prices should come down. I'm seeing between $450 and $500 for the vettes plus shipping. Vendors prices would be different since they need to recoup sales, marketing, stocking and anything else in their books. I have yet to add in my own labor but for the first few I'm sticking with just enough to cover a few beers.

 

Cause if you like it, everyone else has to think it's a good idea too?

 

Just did some quick searching through the tech section: Yes indeed, the VATS can be bypassed and the car will run fine. I think that's a dead issue at this point.

 

He isn't saying that at all. He just wants the negativity out.

 

If it could be a twist type action and not a push button action it would be much simpler.

Someone would just need to come up with a nice looking plastic cover - looks nice, stock in place. Then attach a key behind it...

 

I'll also need a schematic or information on the crank sensor. LS6 motors have how many teeth on the crank wheel?

 

C5 vettes have a 24 tooth reluctor wheel on the crank. I will look in my Software version of the GM tech manual and see if i can find you all the wiring diagrams you need for all yrs that are different.

 

I am very interested in this kit and I hope you do make one for the C5.

 

the 06 murano has a twist type keyless start. i wonder if you could use that..

 

White lightning is right!

The Nissan Rogue, Sentra, Quest van I'm pretty sure and the basic 2nd gen Murano has a twist type keyless ignition.
Those keys that he's got are all Nissan exact replica's and they're really nice.
The "twister" part even has a little "flap" that pops back where you can put the key in the event that your fob battery dies.

Right when you walk up and get it you just turn it but w/o the key...another advantage on the Nissan to the intelligent key is that when you approach the vehicle there is a button on the door handle that you can push to open one or all doors w/o touching the fob, the car just recognizes that the fob is there...

It's really neat how you adapted that on to the Supra and actually made it lock/unlock just on approach!! That's cool man!

DZ

 

Even actually the Nissan Versa SL model's have the twist key less setup...

 

I did some tinkering last night (didn't get to having a key cut and bypassing the VATS, but I think that's a moot issue at this point anyway because it's been proven to work), and here's what I came up with (much to my surprise).

Lock doors with button. Reach in and unlock manually, open door -- ALARM

Lock doors with buton. Unlock with Key in door and open -- NO ALARM (I wonder how this is tied in to the system here).

Lock doors with key. Reach in and unlock manually, open door -- NO ALARM

Lock doors with fob. Unlock with key, open door -- NO ALARM (this surprised me as I could have sworn that this set it off on me prior)

Lock doors with fob. Reach in, unlock manually -- Obviously, the alarm went off.

So the system DOES arm if you lock the door using the door lock switch. It does NOT self-arm if left unlocked, nor does it arm if you lock the door using the key from the outside.

If you still need me to, I'm willing to do a VATS bypass and get a non-pellet key cut to test everything out, but I don't feel it's necessary because a search on here proves over and over that it works.

 

one thing i havent seen mentioned. i think that just bypassing the vats all together will dissable the memory. is the memory function controlled by the key or by the fob?? If controlled by the fob then no problem. the other thing i was thinking about was the way the switch that he was going to use worked when the car was off as far as pressing it once to go to acc. etc. if you used one of those toggles to engage/disengage the connection to the vats that should simulate the key going in and out and keep the memory working. so you would get into the car and press the button once for the memory and then again to start, or even set up a time delay so you press the button once, memory goes for say 10sec then the car starts. just some thoughts.
also im more interested in just having the push button than to have the whole keyless thing changed out.

 

You're thinking too hard. With a resistor in line using a relay it acts just as if the key slides in and out every time. No need for toggle switch, spinny switches, or manual switches of any sort.

The VATS resistor is in no way tied to memory, it's just a resistor that tells it that it's the right key to run. Nothing more.

There is really NOTHING complicated about the corvette system. VATS came out in the 80s after all.