So I'm still unclear what of the old system you'll need (Fob/Key) after the magic happens. WIll you need to open the door with the key (god forbid), carry 2 fobs and the key (old fob to open/lock door, memory functions) and the new RFID fob for the "button" or will it really be integrated like the C6?

 

From what folks have been posting, you should be able to get in and out of the car hands free.

Can someone post the schematic for the ignition switch? You should see ACC, ON, IGN with wires coming in and out of a box like schematic.

 

This is good information. Try this:

Therefore, the UNLOCK signal from my module cannot connect to the unlock wire from the door switch.

Ok. This is good. BUT, when you unlock with the key and open the door, wait 7-8 seconds. See if the alarm goes off.

Makes sense. When you lock with the key, it doesn't activate the alarm. You can unlock it with the key again, no alarm issues. (this is info that has been passed down to me, thanks to those who've been keeping me posted)

Right now, we can keep the fob out of the question. For you to carry my system, I just need to know where to tap the Lock/Unlock wires. Since my system only deals with the two doors, if you need trunk access or window roll up, you'll have to open the trunk after you get in the car.

Correct.

Nope, appreciate it, but everyone seems to be right on. It looks like you just unplug a connector wrapped in an orange sheathing and plug in a resistor into the two wires. Heck, find the resistance of your pellet, goto radio shack, get a resistor that size, unplug the connector under your dash and put in the resisitor. You could then try a spare non-pellet key. But, this should have been proven.

Someone here mentioned that we could use the UNLOCK wire that unlocking with the key would use. But, within 7-8 seconds, the alarm goes off if the ignition is not turned to ACC. If that is verified and true, no problem. I can edit the microcontroller to do that for you automatically: turn on ACC and off immediately.

 

Hmm.. my supra is 12 teeth. I would need to verify that the output wire of the crank sensor will put out a pulse of 24 / revolution. Seems like wire 12 of the PCM is where we are going to tap to get the crank signal. This tells my box to stop cranking. If anyone here could hook up a digital multimeter to that wire and to ground while your car is idling, most multimeters have a DC hz, you can read me the frequency. And don't worry, meters and my box are buffered. Connecting to that wire will not affect the signal to the ECU.

So... with a resistor in place, we don't need a PasskeyI/II bypass kit anymore correct? Folks would still need to purchase the column lock bypass. Well... maybe not. If there is one singal wire that can be ground or powered causing the column lock to engange or disengage, I have a spare output on my box. Otherwise, spend the $40 or so and get the column bypass kit.

It really seems like this is possible. I'm taking notes, but eventually need to get access to a car. I still need to see how much room we have for a push button. I'm thinking s2000 type buttons.

Next thing I would need:
-Take some photos of the key cylinder in front, side, behind.
-See how easy it is to remove the cylinder itself
-Photo of the connector that connects to the back of the key cylinder
-Measurment of the depth and width of the hole left behind after removing the key cyinder. Need to see what button can fit in there.

Looking good so far. Thanks everyone for quick responses.

 

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor

The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor is a three wire sensor based on the magneto resistive principle. A magneto resistive sensor uses two magnetic pickups between a permanent magnet. As an element such as a reluctor wheel passes the magnets the resulting change in the magnetic field is used by the sensor electronics to produce a digital output pulse. The PCM supplies a 12-volt, low reference, and signal circuit to the CKP sensor. The sensor returns a digital ON/OFF pulse 24 times per crankshaft revolution.


Crankshaft Reluctor Wheel

The crankshaft reluctor wheel is mounted on the rear of the crankshaft. The wheel is comprised of four 90 degree segments. Each segment represents a pair of cylinders at TDC , and is further divided into six 15 degree segments. Within each 15 degree segment is a notch of 1 of 2 different sizes. Each 90 degree segment has a unique pattern of notches. This is known as pulse width encoding. This pulse width encoded pattern allows the PCM to quickly recognize which pair of cylinders are at top dead center (TDC). The reluctor wheel is also a dual track-or mirror image-design. This means there is an additional wheel pressed against the first, with a gap of equal size to each notch of the mating wheel. When one sensing element of the CKP sensor is reading a notch, the other is reading a set of teeth. The resulting signals are then converted into a digital square wave output by the circuitry within the CKP sensor.

 

Excellent. That answers it. Thank you again.

 

Just got home from work, saw this, tested. Left the door open for 5 minutes after unlocking with the key and opening the door having locked it with the switch. ZERO alarm indications. Looks to have been completely disarmed.

 

HAHHAHHAHAHHAA! Hilarious!

I hear you though.. If this is made available I am in! I don't know why people jump in and get so negative about the possibility of a trick mod. Heck I have to slide the key in and turn it THEN push a button in my '53 F-100... I wouldn't have it any other way. Too kewl for skewl

 

I was informed that within 10 seconds the alarm would go off. I guess this is not the case then. If that is so, then I won't have to touch the microprocessor. This is how my Supra works, except locking with the key sets the alarm. Unlocking with the key disables the alarm.

I'll have to pawn a diagram that shows the easiest place to tap into the door lock switch LOCK wire, and the door UNLOCK door key cylinder wire. On my Supra, both of these are by the driver footwell, easy to access. I'll also need to know if these wires when grounded to the chassis trigger the doors to lock and/or unlock. Then we are half way there.

 

I must have missed that one!

As long as it says "That was easy" once the motor starts, I'm sold!

 

I believe this is what you are looking for. Does this answer most of your questions?










Power Door Locks Description and Operation

Lock/Unlock

The driver door lock switch lock and unlock signal circuits provide input to the driver door module (DDM) when the driver door switch is activated to the LOCK or UNLOCK position. These inputs allow the DDM to detect a door lock or unlock request. The DDM provides both power and ground to the driver door lock and unlock switches. When the driver door lock switch is activated, a ground is supplied through the driver door switch to the driver door lock input which is pulled low. When the DDM detects low voltage on the driver door lock input, the DDM will lock the driver door. The DDM will also send a message on the serial data line to the passenger door module (PDM) to lock the passenger door. When the driver door unlock switch is activated, the DDM will unlock the driver door and also send a message on the serial data line to the PDM to unlock the passenger door. The passenger door lock and unlock function operates the same as the driver door except when the PDM detects low voltage on the passenger door lock input, the lock or unlock message is sent to the DDM. Both door modules provide output control to their respective door lock motors based upon a lock or unlock switch input, or from a message received on the serial data line from the other door module. The door modules provide both power and ground through the door lock actuator unlock control, driver door lock actuator unlock control and the door lock actuator lock control circuits to the door lock motors. The lock and unlock output operation is similar to each other except that the polarity of the voltage applied to the door lock motors is reversed.

 

I am sure someone will do an easy button, It is in our will as gearhead MAD MODDERS

 

My keyboard has a cool fingerprint scanner on it.... how's that for security?

Of course you'd probably have to have a car PC installed...

 

right click - save as

 

I'm pretty much done with a unit that we can try on a C5. What I am looking for is someone who is willing to purchase the unit. I'll provide all the tech support you need (even over the phone), some installation guidance, etc. I'm well known in a few venues so I hope trust won't be a concern. But, if things do not work out, you would get your money back. If anyone is up to the challange, let me know.

This individual would need to have some concept of wiring, take photos for me, and be able to get under the dash. I test fitted and ran the unit on my Supra, thus it works well.

PM if you're interested. We'll post the results on this topic and keep everyone informed.

Also, make sure you purchase the column bypass kit as well. We'll have to discuss in private your pellet resistor. I may have the exact resistor in my hand and I can send that over as well.

 

 

PM Sent

 

Could the passive entry feature of earlier model c5's not be incorporated into the push button start?

It seems like half the work here was already done by GM.

Kodos to Dre for working so hard on this project....if it's ever available in kit form for under $700, you can count me in.



JC

 

When this comes around, I want one. VERY cool!