Summit sells them for like 4.95 or so, or check the local NAPA Store.

It took me all of 30 seconds to disconnect my slave when I dropped the driveline the other night.

I have a lift but I'm old and slow. Took me 6 hours to drop the drive line out taking my sweet time. I do have the benefit of a (4) post lift.

 

Driveline out, pulled back far enough to move slave forward and rotate, got a new copper crush washer, reinstalled driveline, no leaks (wife gave me an extended kitchen pass because she saw how frustrated I was, boy do I owe her).

But........(man isn't this always the case).........

I can't get the slave to bleed. I'm wondering if I should just leave the bleeder open to allow the sucker to gravity fill (like some brakes you have to do this to) the bleed after a few hours.

 

You can try the gravity drain method but, you may not get all the air out. Iv you have a remote bleeder, pull a vacuum on the bleeder and suck the fluid thru. You can also shut the bleeder and pull a vacuum on the master cylinder and draw the air out that way. Make sure that you do a couple vacuum cycles.

Bill

 

I kinda figured the gravity feed method to get it going on a new slave. Figures. If that doesn't work then, at least it gives me a reason to buy a vacuum pump. Thanks for the info guys!!!! HOPEFULLY, I'll be firing it back up by the weekend. Not sure how things are going to work out though because that drivers side turbo leaks oil every time I tilt the back side downwards. Just can't afford $800+ for a dual turbo rebuild right now so it does what it does.

 

I don't see how you can not bleed. Just loosen the bleeder nut end and stick it in a plastic soda bottle with some brake fluid to stop it from sucking air.

Pump the pedal 2 or 3 times, refill master and tighten bleeder.

 

Not building pressure and the pedal is just sticking to the floor.

 

Try what I posted. Crack open the bleeder and submerse it in a plastic drink bottle with brake fluid and slowly pump the pedal.

It will get the air out trust me.

 

That seems like the solo way to do it, am I right?? I had my wife out there (9 days post partum and she's helping me wrench already, she rocks) and she was pumping the pedal like we were bleeding the brakes, push and hold, crack open, close, release pedal. Nothing was happening.

I'm done for the night, so I'm going to just open the remote bleeder and let it sit overnight. I figure that should at the very least fill the slave up to the feed line and let the air escape, then I'll try your soda bottle technique tomorrow and see what happens.

After all this trouble, there better not be a dang vibe when I get it back together.

 

I got my fingers crossed for ya. Time for bed.

Yeah your wife is a keeper. Mine helped me unload my forged motor tonight.

 

Good friend had a 03 z/06 luvs the way new vettes look fell in love with that nice medium blue besides new z/096 500 plus HP kerbeck chev (atlantic city) had one internet special gonna trade in the 03 everything fine getting decent bucks on trade till told the 03 was hit then trade in was half,called his wife to tell the bad news she replied "you have Kenny there with you buy the new one and bring both home" now thats a GREAT wife.... but then again having your wife help/pump up the clutch couple days after birth thats not too shabby either...

 

Got my mityvac last night, just got done, have good pedal/pressure using a combination of vacuum bleeding at the remote bleeder to get fluid sucked through the system, then this technique to finish it off: http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm

Got really good pedal pressure and slave movement is verified with no leaks. Back to the reassembly. Todays goal is to have rear cradle bolted in, tunnel plate back in, and downpipes on with manifolds reattached to the heads.

 

Well, looks like I"ve got more clearancing to do. I got the manifold in and snugged up, but it's still riding on a high spot on the tunnel. Hopefully I can drop it down and not have to take the downpipe off.

I talked with the guys who helped me spec the motor and we think we found WHY the clearances changed: the 317 heads weren't decked, so we're thinking that the manifold surface is sitting slightly higher than the original 241 heads. That's about all we can think of because the LS3 block should be dimensionally the same as the LS1. Hoping to get back under there tomorrow and get some hammering done.

 

I hope my new motor has no problems.

I need things to go smoothly this time around. Car is pieces. Just gotta pull the motor and transfer over the needed items. Do some re-wiring and other tweaks.

I was going to drop the motor out the bottom, but I think it would be easier out the top that way I don't have to drop the brake lines.

Hope you get every thing sorted out.

 

I bet you'll be fine. Just remember the A and C pin swap on the cam position sensor when converting to the LS2/3 sensor and you should be golden.

I will caution you about doing the motor out the top. I talked extensively with the guys that did my install and though they pulled it off, they swore never again. Getting lined up on the TQ tube was a PITA apparently, and you have to pretty much gut everything to get maneuvering room to boot.

Things are getting sorted out on this end. I think I'm getting it nailed down and am either going to find a smooth car when I'm done (not half assing it, there will be good clearance before it goes completely together) or I'm going to be pulling EVERYTHING for a go-through.

 

Thanks, but I have the whole drive train out as well since I am going to be going with an automatic conversion too, so going out the top should be a breeze.

Engine will go in first and then I'll work on tranny conversion.

Lot easier lining up a auto than a six speed, having experienc doing both.

Good Luck and hopefully things will go well this time around.

 

Ok guys, time to put on the thinking hats. I think my motor is sitting either on a slant or slightly cockeyed in the engine bay. I've got all kinds of interference on the drivers side after taking some very careful looks. I think I got the clearance on that flange but it's looking to me like the outside of the manifold main runner (feed to turbo flange) is rubbing also. I can't verify because I simply can't see everything, but it sure looks like it's hitting. I've been under the car for three hours today dropping that side (manifold/turbo/DP), banging with a BFH, installing, repeat. It's almost like the right side is sitting slightly high (or the left side low....not sure).

I HAVE noticed that I can actually rock the motor a tad by hand standing over the engine bay and pushing on the intake manifold. The motor mounts themselves looked and felt fine and are both installed correctly, so I'm not sure what's going on. I don't think new mounts would do anything because those typically will raise the engine up a tad and that would cause me more headache's.

Thoughts???? I'm really searching here.

Oh, and I managed to destroy the little inlet pipe I had worked up. Looks like it's going to be screens for me for the time being.

 

I don't see how you can be rocking the motor if you're hooked in to the torque tube and all of your mounting bolts are tight.

You got some pictures ?

 

Nothing that I can catch on film. I'll try to do a vid though.

 

I can't fathom what is wrong. The height of the heads being is only a few thousands of an inch. I can not believe that, that would throw you off so much.

Do you have the front and rear cradles in correctly ?

 

Yup. Both are in and aligned on teh pins. I haven't had the front down but have been around the bolts and dropped one side to get the mount out, and I've had the rear in and out multiple times now. Vid coming shortly.