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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #141  
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Sorry Tim, but that has be all confused due to my ignorance on this stuff. I forget how to even read voltage on my meter now, haha. There are so many damn options on this **** I forget which it is!

Fuse 27 is good and to be sure I swapped in a new one and same deal.

This is driving me nuts!
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #142  
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I'll give ya a call...
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 09:15 AM
  #143  
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Sorry I missed your second call last night Tim, I was detailing a friend's car and left my phone inside. I will give you a call later on today to see if I can catch you once I finish this car up and get to work on mine!

Anyways.... Trying to read OHM from the pink wire off the RFA to the pink pin in the star connector reads.... infinity... not zero... hmmm?
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #144  
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Oh ALSO! I noticed on my DIC I have No Comm. with the RFA OR the Radio.... however my radio works fine, I have no issues with the radio working at all yet it reads No Comm. It is an aftermarket double din unit, but was installed AFTER my RFA issue so not the culprit, but I don't know why it reads No Comm. when it works just fine!
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #145  
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The BCM doesn't understand DD talk... don't worry about that one! You're getting No Comm cuz the OEM Radio is missing...

That Pink wire should be a direct short, ZERO Ohms ( or damn near)... That's your problem or A problem anyway. Go ahead and follow it, making continuity (Ohms ) checks along the way if you lose sight of it.

Tim

Last edited by tstar; Aug 19, 2010 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 03:42 PM
  #146  
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Yep,,,,,,,, that wire is open somewhere. I would look carefully at the metal pin where the wire is crimped in. They frequently break there. If the wire is good at the connectors on the pins, you need to find out where the wire is broken in the wiring harness run.

If the wire was ever streatched, the copper wire inside the plastic insulation can be seperated but the plastic insulation will look almost normal.

BC
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 08:05 PM
  #147  
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What the hell is streatched???? You squids talk funny...



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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by tstar
What the hell is streatched???? You squids talk funny...
That what happens when your trying to work on submarine stuff and play on the forum at the same time. Looks like spell check lost out


S T R E T C H E D

Stretched
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 08:19 PM
  #149  
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Cute!

what are you doing homework for? I haven't caught anything in the early bird!
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #150  
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Decided today to try to figure this damn thing out again!

So, Pink wire runs from RFA into fuse box, then out of fuse box into the start connector. I recently tried to replace the pink wire but think I did something wrong as when connected it didn't give me any problems as when it was connected before (No Comm ANYWHERE) but the RFA still have no comm.

So today I reconnected the pink wire to the RFA as original, and bypassed the fuse box completely and ran it right into the start connector. Well I fire the car up and no issues! I did not get any service TPS, etc etc messages as I used to have. I scrolled through the DIC and FINALLY I have comm with the RFA! YESSSS

But I can't get my key fobs to sync, grrrrrr.

Any bad reason or bad outcome to bypassing the fuse box for this? Should I run a fuse in line to be safe? Is bypassing the fuse box going to cause any other issues or not allow it to work properly?

Thanks!
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 05:44 PM
  #151  
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Bump! I believe the RFA in the car now is one tstar sent me. With a different RFA, is that something I have to take to the stealer to get programmed?
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 06:33 PM
  #152  
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Jon

You know you can call me if you need help!

There are TWO Class RFA modules... A 97-2000 Module and a 2001-2004 Module

You have to have the same year series module for your FOBs and TPS..

You can however, get 2001- 2004 TPS and FOBs and UP grade to the newer better less expensive FOBs and TPS. You just have to re-pin the new module to your old conector.

The RFA is a Plug and Play module. When you change it out, you just need to relearn your FOBs and TPSs

All resistance readings must be made on a DEEERGIZED or dead CIRCUIT.

PM Sent

Bill
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 06:45 AM
  #153  
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I sent him my OEM 99 RFA since I had upgraded my RFA, FOBs and TPSs to the newer 01+ stuff, so it should have been a direct R&R for him...

Jon - Now that the RFA has a conection try and re-learn the FOBs as Bill suggested.

OR drive that POS over here and we'll get it fixed!

Tim
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by tstar
I sent him my OEM 99 RFA since I had upgraded my RFA, FOBs and TPSs to the newer 01+ stuff, so it should have been a direct R&R for him...

Jon - Now that the RFA has a conection try and re-learn the FOBs as Bill suggested.

OR drive that POS over here and we'll get it fixed!

Tim


"drive that POS over here and we'll get itfixed!"

Now that there is FUNNY, I dont care who ya are!

If you lived close to me,, Ide say the same thing!

I thought of something. Some modules dont function properly if there are DTCs set. Read the DTCs and see if you have any RFA DTCs. If you do clear them and then try to re-learn the FOBs and TPS

Bill
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #155  
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Well, on 6-2-2010, I lost communication with my vehicle and haven't had use of my RFA since.

Today I finally again have use of my key fobs!!!!!

I cannot test or use TPS as I do not have sensors in my wheels.

I took the pink wire from the RFA and bypassed the fuse box and ran it straight to the star connector. With this I regained communication with this RFA.

I went in the DIC and relearned my fobs to my car and it worked perfectly!

Now I just need to know if bypassing the fuse box with the pink RFA wire will be safe and if I should put a fuse or something inline of this wire or something?

THANKS to ALL that have helped. I would be so lost and no where NEAR getting this fixed without all of you that helped me out with this over the 1 year and 4 months!

Also through this whole ordeal I feel 100x more intelligent on the electrical system of the Corvette and the whole care itself thanks to you guys teaching and guiding me through stuff to try/check, etc.

Thanks to all, if we ever meet up in person any day, I will buy you dinner!
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 10:15 AM
  #156  
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And on another note, if anyone has 4 good TPS sensors for my 99' let me know and I will purpose them!
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 10:19 AM
  #157  
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The signal wire is just that! "DATA" Its not a high current wire so,, you will be 100 fine! Glad that you got it working.

Why dont you have your TPS in the wheels????

I like the feature so much that I added them to my ZO6.
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The signal wire is just that! DATA Its not a high current wire so,, you will be 100 fine! Glad that you got it working.

Why dont you have your TPS in the wheels????

I like the feature so much that I added them to my ZO6.
Sweeeeeeeet! I have had probably 4-5 different sets of wheels/tires on my car since this issue, so with the RFA not working I never saw the reason to put the sensors in.
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 10:49 AM
  #159  
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Just to ease your mind and enable you to sleep better at night,, take a very close look at the schematic below. You will notice that the RFA wire just goes THRU the fuse box and is not fused.

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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #160  
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Just figured I'd give everyone a FINAL update!

Car is now working 100% in all categories!

I have 2 working key fobs, and 4 new TPS Sensors in the wheels that I just programmed and took for a drive to show they are working flawlessly

FWIW I used a trick found here also on the forum to learn the TPS sensors using some magnets, thanks everyone!!!!
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