





Service Active Handling - Consumer Action
Last edited by Luweegy; Dec 17, 2010 at 08:34 PM.





PLEASE post the DTCs that you get prior to turnig OFF the ignition.
BC
Last edited by Luweegy; Jan 2, 2011 at 04:20 AM.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Greg
Symptom is a dic msg service AH and a code 1288, happens on sharp turns slow & moderate speed. No tele wheel on c5z's.
I got in there & turned the steering wheel while I observed the sensor. There was some movement at the 4 pin connector assembly that plugs into the sensor each time, about 1/8 inch as close as I could guess. Each direction. A tech I trust says this is normal on a c5 (the slight movement as wheel turns).
I pulled the connection apart & using a mirror inspected the 4 pins all were straight/clean/same length.
I inspected the female end and could see that the contact area is 4 tiny flat blades that are crimped to the wires and are loose captured in the connector.
I could also take the female end and hold the wires and wiggle them and see the blade contact area move around in the connector.
Very flimsy IMO for an important part of the tc/ah system. Should have been barrel pins as someone else posted.
All I could do is use some Rescue Tape (silicone tape that sticks to itself without adhesive) to wrap around the whole connection area and try to prevent looseness/movement.
If this is the problem & the tape fixes it then I will most pleased.
If the tape does not fix it, then I am not sure a new sensor would do much either as the same poorly designed connection would plug into it, unless they problem is actually internal to the sensor.
Are there moving parts inside the sensor? Does the sensor typically fail or is the problem usually the connector?
The red comb was already installed in my 2004 c5z as was a hold off / zip tie for the wire bundle. There was enough slack in the wire bundle.
BTW when this error happens I have never had braking applied by the car, only the service light & tc/ah OFF happens and the 1288 code.
I guess someone changed the software program to apply braking on the c6's, good job! SARCASM.
As the car ages & this stuff pops up, I get why several of my buddies bought Vipers.
If my fix works, I doubt I'll add an 04 to the NHTSB database as the braking problem seems to be a c6 one. Good luck all with this.
If all goes as planned (by GM) this will be another cluster **** like the c5 column lock "fixes" that will conclude when the last c5 goes to the government recycle/cash for clunker center in 2099.
It's unfortunate that a) not all of us can DIY, even with support from a forum and b) many/most of the dealers are pretty clueless when it comes to Corvette servicing, I avoid them as much as I possibly can.

UPDATE
Almost a month and no code since I secured the connection. I was getting it about 2x a week when it started. I think a good place to start, if you are capable of diy, is to firm up this connection any way you can, maybe even hard wire it. You may void your warranty with GM if you do this & are still under warranty. If that is the case you are doomed to suffer with GM & your dealer. Sorry.
Last edited by froggy47; Feb 9, 2011 at 12:21 PM.
I took the vehicle in last week and paid $104 for a diagnoses, the dealer told me this isnt part of the recall.
I contacted corporate and they informed me that they will not be fixing this issue.
Picked up my car today from the dealership and was informed that the my car's problem is not the wire but the actuator thats connected to it. (not gm's fault)
Could it be possible that the wires were pulled so many times that the actuator went bad? Im no electrician but if i keep pulling on a wire thats connected to an electronic unit the unit will short out or go bad.
Either way ive informed GM that i will take legal action, contact the nhtsa, and the media in order to shine light on GM's evil ways. Ive read many many of the posts here and have come to the conclusion that the recall is larger than admitted by GM.
POS company takes our money to get bailed out and turns around just to spit on our face.
F#$K GM!!!!
If there are any members here that feel they should be represented PLEASE send me a PM. Our fight against the tyrant GM will be much stronger if we stand together in large numbers. I want to visit the media with a strong and powerful case. Lets not let corporate shaft us little people.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Start here and do it yourself. If this does not fix it, start reading all the thousands of posts on the subject to get smart on the topic. I would order the GM maintenance manuals as well. They come in a pack of 3.
Good luck

TK





Unless the issue is continuously happening and throwing a DTC each time, there NOT going to be very helpful. They don't have a clue what causes the issue or this issue would not be a problem.
OR
They will replace something expensive and send you off on your way only to have it happen again. You will bring the car back again and they will do the same thing. You will keep bringing the car back to them until they say: SIR, we realize that you have NO MORE MONEY but,,,, we only have ONE MORE part to replace. The only part that we have not replaced is the radiator cap. The radiator cap isn't that much money and we are SURE that its the issue!


BC
http://s680.photobucket.com/albums/vv162/NVL_AV8R/
Does anyone know how to make this link a Sticky Thread or whatever it is called in the DIY section?
Thanks
Tony







I had the same issue and it seems like I solved it for the most part. I disconnected the sensor and used a small metal dental tool and slightly bent each pin rearward so that it would make better contact inside the female pins inside the harness connector. Have not had an issue since.
Give that a try.
BC
Unless the issue is continuously happening and throwing a DTC each time, there NOT going to be very helpful. They don't have a clue what causes the issue or this issue would not be a problem.
OR
They will replace something expensive and send you off on your way only to have it happen again. You will bring the car back again and they will do the same thing. You will keep bringing the car back to them until they say: SIR, we realize that you have NO MORE MONEY but,,,, we only have ONE MORE part to replace. The only part that we have not replaced is the radiator cap. The radiator cap isn't that much money and we are SURE that its the issue!


BC
I would LMAO if this were not so true.
Last edited by IDAHO; Apr 12, 2011 at 02:53 PM. Reason: NEW INFO

Wires were not run through the body but right down the torque tube tunnel. Wire had to be twisted/coiled so they were the same length as the originals. Puters detect voltage difference if not the same length.
Been a couple of months, several hundred miles and no SAH or STC yet or archived codes.
REPAIR NOTES:
Field Engineer inspected vehicle on XX/XX for repeat condition of communication faults. U2100, U2108, U2105, U2106 all stored in BCM with U2100 stored in EBCM. instructed to run new communication circuits from BCM to TCM using twisted pair 20 gauge TXL wire with soldering terminal ends on both sides. Restrung circuits 2500 and 2501 high speed GMLAN + and - communication terminals 2 and 20 at BCM C2 to TCM connector terminal 13 and 14. Routed new harness external to existing harness through bulkhead pass throughdown rear of engine, along torque tube to TCM. Secured harness with tie straps and placed in conduit for additional protection. Cleared codes and road tested."
Last edited by KarlK; Feb 14, 2011 at 10:17 PM.
Codes:
U2100, U2105, U2107, U2108, comm codes
Fix:
Ck electrical inputs to ECM-BCM-EBCM
Input connector C180
Ck for any open & shut electrical
Drag test terminal-ECM-BCM-EBCM
Ck 2500 & 2501 from BCM-EBCm EBCM-ECM
Ck complete wiring harness
Ck modules before disconnecting (disconnecting what, I am not sure)
Hope this helps in your repairs. If you want, print these codes and fix and take it to the stealership and have them fix the problem.
NOTE....What I have learn, you must, must take it to a dealership at the moment the SHA/STC/SES lights activates, if the service dept is open. If so, DO NOT TURN OFF YOUR CAR until the codes are identified. Ask the tech II what codes were activicating. And, do your own research and the ask someone you know who can answer your questions as to what the codes are the fix is, such as on here.
Last edited by c6vetteinhouston; May 24, 2011 at 12:09 PM.










