Cam install gone bad.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 490
Likes: 0
From: West texas TX
Cam install gone bad.
I ran my car through water and had the stuff fixed at a Chevy dealership. I’m not sure what they did but I Have the receipt on the parts they ordered. Gasket , Valve , Bolt , F-Gasket Kit, sealant, Cleaner ,Fltr Kit oil , seal kit, Rep Head. So after I got my car back I had a sensor not plugged in and a ground not tighten properly. Had my mechanic fix all of this and the car ran fine for about 4 days before I had the cam installed. So I went to a shop in Lubbock and had my cam installed. When they first started the car it over heated and didn’t turn over right away so they said it had an air bubble and let it out and added more coolant and the overheating went away but the engine taking 4 ever to start didn’t. So they said it was a bad cam sensor and replaced it and from there the car would turn right over and was running fine. So I headed home about 138 miles away when I was about 20 miles out from my city the car just shut off so I pulled off to the side of the rode and tried to start the car but it didn’t turn over. So I waited about an hour and tried again it tuned over but once it hit idle it would turn off you could hold the gas down to keep it started but if you don’t give it gas it will die. Any idea whos fault it is for my car acting like this?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
You have several red flags here: the repair at the dealership of what was probably a hydro-locked motor although you said it ran fine for four days after the repair, an aluminum motor that was over heated although it’s basic knowledge of what it takes to properly bleed the system which in my head brings your mechanic’s expertise into question and then a cam install which could have gone wrong in a dozen ways that was performed by the same guy who allowed your car to overheat. It’s very hard to tell over the internet which one or maybe combination of the three is the root of your problem. 
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,537
Likes: 1,403
From: Bethesda MD
I ran my car through water and had the stuff fixed at a Chevy dealership. I’m not sure what they did but I Have the receipt on the parts they ordered. Gasket , Valve , Bolt , F-Gasket Kit, sealant, Cleaner ,Fltr Kit oil , seal kit, Rep Head. So after I got my car back I had a sensor not plugged in and a ground not tighten properly. Had my mechanic fix all of this and the car ran fine for about 4 days before I had the cam installed.
Like Spin said, until you diagnose the failure you can't assess as whether the speed shop had anything to do with this.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 190
From: Baton Rouge LA
St. Jude Donor '14, '16
Depending on the depth/contents of the water you initially ran it through, it could be any number of things related to either the water or the cam install. Lots of electronics that can actually take some time to fail due to oxidation or deposits from the water intake. How deep was the "puddle"?
Good luck.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 186
Likes: 1
From: TEXAS!
I'd like to take a moment to clarify that this was NOT work done by Texas Speed. Bulldog, can you PM what shop did do the work? I might be able to help you figure out who to talk to over there to get ths straightened out, or offer you suggestions on how to fix the issues.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 490
Likes: 0
From: West texas TX
This work was NOT done by texas speed which is the shop I should of taken it to in the first place. The parts that he wants to replace at MY cost is Main bearings . Rod bearings Cam bearings ,Lifters, Turn crank ,Oil pan gasket Pickup Tube and "maybe cam".
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 490
Likes: 0
From: West texas TX
The car was out of the Chevy shop about 2 weeks and ran fine. If there was major problems with the car wouldnt I of found out with in two weeks and the drive to lubbock? I have never seen a car shut off like that before Until AFTER the cam was put in by these people.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46,295
Likes: 2,596
From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
You have several red flags here: the repair at the dealership of what was probably a hydro-locked motor although you said it ran fine for four days after the repair, an aluminum motor that was over heated although it’s basic knowledge of what it takes to properly bleed the system which in my head brings your mechanic’s expertise into question and then a cam install which could have gone wrong in a dozen ways that was performed by the same guy who allowed your car to overheat. It’s very hard to tell over the internet which one or maybe combination of the three is the root of your problem.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 791
Likes: 2
From: Stafford Virginia
With Motorhead-47... I'm leaning towards the damaged cam bearing causing the oil pressure to drop, but I dont know why it wouldn't have thrown codes and alerted you through the DIC that the pressure was low... Have an oil analysis done by a reputable lab, it'll tell you if you have contaminated oil or some Cam Bearing material in it. The analysis will definitley find the Main bearing material but it can differentiate Main Bearing from Cam Bearing material.
Last edited by Isaiah48; Mar 18, 2010 at 10:44 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 490
Likes: 0
From: West texas TX
Yeah bad oil preassure it wasent even at that while cruising so bad install on their part.......... they came ad pick up my car on a trailer and they refuse to bring me back my car because I dont want them working in it. So I guess im going to have to get it.