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I actually pulled the power from the pop up accessory plug. It was convenient and close enough that I didn't have to run any extra wires. I ran the usb cord to the drivers side for easy access. I also bought the ethernet switch but decided to use the hifi module instead. I've occasionally had bluetooth issues and figured with my luck i'd end up getting a ticket because of a problem with my phone.
Good thinking.. if you forget your phone or the battery dies then you would be "laser defenseless"..
How did you connect to the pop up accessory?
Could you connect the power tothe radio fuse (24) in the engine compartment fuse box?
Good thinking.. if you forget your phone or the battery dies then you would be "laser defenseless"..
How did you connect to the pop up accessory?
Could you connect the power tothe radio fuse (24) in the engine compartment fuse box?
Thanks again!!
-DC
I took the top of the center console off. It made it easier to run the wires from the control box to the drivers side and the control set to the spot I mounted it in. I pulled the molding off on the drivers side and then the center part. If you decide to install an MGW shifter they you can do that and the ALP install at the same time. I didn't do it that way because I didn't know I was going to install the MGW when I installed the ALP.
Good to see more interest in the ALP system..it really is the best.
Yes that is my ZR1 rear.. I also have a 5 head install on my '13 ML63 AMG and it works fantastic..and we have the Dragon Eye guns here and lots of em..generally being used by the City in rear photo laser mail citations...and this system stymies them every time...
And for DSO regarding the STiR+ antenna it works fine behind the grill..leave it be...see mine center of the ML
Be happy to help any enthusiats..and ALP USA great to see you here...good info and come on join up !!
Just an update. We did testing, front and rear, on several different guns today and the ALP jammed everything except the dragoneye. It was flawless front and rear until we tried the dragoneye gun and it got me out to 1500 feet front and back. I may need a third head front and back but will probably just settle for a third head in front since the alp will only handle 5 heads.
It has the latest firmware, setup files, and voice paks. . The heads are level and square.There was also a small suv there with 3 heads in front and the dragoneye got him too. One of the guys there flew in from NJ and had 4 guns one was brand new. The alp beat them all front and rear until the Dragoneye. The guy from eastcoast said a third alp head front and rear would solve the problem. I will probably install a third head in front but not the rear since you can only use 5 heads with my controller and I'll probalby be more likely to be hit from the front.
Are you guys using double sided tape to mount the heads or are you using the mounting brackets?
I used the double sided tape and so far it's worked fine. I have 2200+ miles on it so far so that's not much of a test. It should work fine the wiring is all tie wrapped so the only thing the tape is holding is the head. I also mounted the sti-r plus head the same way. no issues so far.
I have 8k miles on the double-sided tape. I'm more concerned with getting them straight and level.
i need to get my setup tested soon.
It's a good idea. I've only had one laser hit and it worked fine. If it had been a Dragoneye I don't think I would have fared too well. I was hit either 1500 or 1800 feet out with the Dragoneye. All the other guns were jammed all the way to the gun and never got a reading front or rear.
Last time i tried a double sided setup was on my ZR1 equipped with LIs - the C6 bumper is super curvy.. On testing, I had numerous punch throughs which caused me to mount the heads on a bracket.
My ALP heads are mounted on the grill of by C7Z.
Fortunately, I'm out west and i hear the dragon-eye is (Florida, Georgia, Maryland and Delaware).
Just a tidbit of info...when testing ensure if there are other jammers nearby they are turned off as I've seen random scatter set off by bystanders and send pulses to the car being tested messing things up
I used the double sided tape and so far it's worked fine. I have 2200+ miles on it so far so that's not much of a test. It should work fine the wiring is all tie wrapped so the only thing the tape is holding is the head. I also mounted the sti-r plus head the same way. no issues so far.
Have you got a current pic of your front sensors ?
Just a tidbit of info...when testing ensure if there are other jammers nearby they are turned off as I've seen random scatter set off by bystanders and send pulses to the car being tested messing things up
We actually only tested two vehicles and when one was being tested the other one was turned off and parked away from the testing area. We didn't want to attract too much attention. Here are the guns we used.
Where on the car were you being targeted to get the pt ?
When he got the first one he was about 20 degrees off to one side and 950 feet away. The others were straight on and straight behind. Barely any angle at all.
From this image it looks like your snesors are not parallel...the passenger really looks like it's pointing outward...and not sure if it's that big a deal but bubbles are usually on the outside...but these snsors really look like they are pointing outward..ake a pic from the side sensors at eye level..
When he got the first one he was about 20 degrees off to one side and 950 feet away. The others were straight on and straight behind. Barely any angle at all.
Actually i meant what specific spot on the car..if any..headlight...centermass.. etc
It's an optical illusion. We put a long straight edge, a 4 foot level, in front and they were parallel with each other and level front to back and side to side. He was shooting the headlights and then the center of the car. I'm not sure where he was aiming it when he got the pt's but from what he said it didn't seem like they were slowing the dragoneye down at all.
Last edited by badhabit_wb; Aug 29, 2015 at 04:10 PM.