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Check engine light on at 670 miles (still babied car)
Got a check engine light on today. Hooked up an OBD reader and got these codes (P0868, P0815, P0700). Anyone else get these codes? Got a response from Chev diagnostics to take the car in to service within a day. Anyone know which dealer in the Chicago Western suburbs have a good Corvette Tech?
Car has 670 some miles on it, I still do not drive over 4k rpm for the breakin (do not plan on driving spirited until 1500 miles). Checked for fluid leaks, none apparent. Just wondering if anyone else had these codes and if its an electrical gremlin and that the light may go out on its own. Car appears to drive fine. Hate to have anyone touch the car if its really not needed.
Is the car idling rough by chance? When did you get the car delivered?
Grey
Car is not idling rough, do not believe its the valve spring and the car drives smooth like the light was not on. Also NO codes of engine misfire. Just transmission fault code (gear switch and low trans fluid pressure).
Last edited by dinhps007; Oct 11, 2020 at 04:36 PM.
My high school buddy's dad was a GM Zone rep. He was the guy who would respond to dealers when service issues couldn't be resolved at their level. He once told me, never, ever, buy the first year of a new model. They need time to work the bugs out. I guess that still holds true today. It's always cool to be the first one in your neighborhood to have a new model no one has seen but it's best to be patient. I appreciate this thread. I may wait until the 2022 model year.
My high school buddy's dad was a GM Zone rep. He was the guy who would respond to dealers when service issues couldn't be resolved at their level. He once told me, never, ever, buy the first year of a new model. They need time to work the bugs out. I guess that still holds true today. It's always cool to be the first one in your neighborhood to have a new model no one has seen but it's best to be patient. I appreciate this thread. I may wait until the 2022 model year.
My high school buddy's dad was a GM Zone rep. He was the guy who would respond to dealers when service issues couldn't be resolved at their level. He once told me, never, ever, buy the first year of a new model. They need time to work the bugs out. I guess that still holds true today. It's always cool to be the first one in your neighborhood to have a new model no one has seen but it's best to be patient. I appreciate this thread. I may wait until the 2022 model year.
That may have been true in the 70’s when cars didn’t have warranties. Today, it is the total opposite there is nothing spared in the first year and as sales wean off in subsequent years the accountants find ways to reduce costs. Luckily, at lot of “bugs” today are software related and can be fixed OTA. The issues that aren’t are fixed OTA are fixed at the dealer with sometimes superior parts.
Last edited by Verboten993; Oct 11, 2020 at 11:43 PM.
You must be a millennium fellow...limited facts and therefore limited credibility. Please educate yourself a bit before telling us stories.
From around 1965 most cars, particularly Dodge/Chrysler, sold every new vehicle with a 5/50 warranty. That was a 5 yr/50,000 mile warranty bumper to bumper . My Dad bought us a 66 Windsor and later a 68 Newport Custom, with 383 magnum, dual snorkel air cleaner, twin exhaust, 4 dr family car. Covered by the 5/50 warranty. 330 HP. 3 speed automatic transmission. It shifted automatically from 1-2 at 40 mph, 2-3 at 70 mph, and 2-3 dead on 100 mph. Dad swore the factory wide oval tires were defective because they wore down too quickly !
From: Virginia Beach, VA & Port Charlotte, FL (snowbird)
Originally Posted by permitmefour
You must be a millennium fellow...limited facts and therefore limited credibility. Please educate yourself a bit before telling us stories.
From around 1965 most cars, particularly Dodge/Chrysler, sold every new vehicle with a 5/50 warranty. That was a 5 yr/50,000 mile warranty bumper to bumper . My Dad bought us a 66 Windsor and later a 68 Newport Custom, with 383 magnum, dual snorkel air cleaner, twin exhaust, 4 dr family car. Covered by the 5/50 warranty. 330 HP. 3 speed automatic transmission. It shifted automatically from 1-2 at 40 mph, 2-3 at 70 mph, and 2-3 dead on 100 mph. Dad swore the factory wide oval tires were defective because they wore down too quickly !
It wasn't "My dad had this, my dad did that." I had my own cars back in the 60s and 70s and cars back then they typically had a 12 month, 12 thousand mile warranty.
Got a check engine light on today. Hooked up an OBD reader and got these codes (P0868, P0815, P0700). Anyone else get these codes? Got a response from Chev diagnostics to take the car in to service within a day. Anyone know which dealer in the Chicago Western suburbs have a good Corvette Tech?
Car has 670 some miles on it, I still do not drive over 4k rpm for the breakin (do not plan on driving spirited until 1500 miles). Checked for fluid leaks, none apparent. Just wondering if anyone else had these codes and if its an electrical gremlin and that the light may go out on its own. Car appears to drive fine. Hate to have anyone touch the car if its really not needed.
The car sat over a day, I scheduled an appointment with the Dealer for tomorrow for the DTCs listed. But just started the car and NOW the check engine light is OFF. I know the same thing also happened to TJ Hunt in his Youtube video.
Would you still take your car to the dealer if the MIL / CEL is now off? Also, if you do NOT take the car to the dealer because the light is now off, and you have a failure later on, can GM hold you accountable? I did receive an email and text from Chevrolet saying to take the car in due to an engine / transmission issue when the DTC codes first happened.
Would prefer not to take the car to the dealer as I have to take time off work as well as deal with the headache of COVID, etc... Thoughts???
I raised this issue a few days ago.Some senior posters were upset.
An old attorney friend, graduated 1975, recommends you follow exactly what GMC tells you to do. Take the car to wherever they request. If you do not, they will most likely deny you as much services and warranty as possible. If you have anything from them saying to take it in with extant problems, do it. Copy and save everything from them and the dealer.
You need to establish a notebook for taking dated notes on everything. As well, take screenshots of everything you see on the dash. Careful and complete records will serve you well in the future.
Now, to get to your real issue: your lost work or leisure time, covid risk, stress, etc:
Keep records of your loss of income, your stress, your loss of consortium ( LOL ? ) due to paying 60,000 + for a car that does not work. You may be entitled to recompense at some point if you, or a bunch of other buyers, have similar situations.
To repeat: DO NOT ignore what GMC tells you to do. Keep notes.
Well the saga of my Vette down at 63 miles with broken valve springs just gets better and better. So the car has now been sitting at the dealer for 16 days parts did come in last Friday 10/9/20. Now it gets good, the day I first picked the car up, I had to tell the paper work guy put on a mask. Following week car is in the shop, he wants me to redo some paper, again he is in no mask. Nor was most of the staff. I refused to enter his office and made him bring the paper to me, and told him you guys are running one very dangerous operation. < I was pissed> Monday 10/12 dealership discovers they are infected. Closed down for undetermined amount of time while employees are tested. It may 2 to 14 days before they really know the depth of the problem. So now the car sits. Now I have to question is the car itself contaminated and presume that it is. Can you ever really be sure the car is clean again and safe to drive? Do I now own the best looking casket ever made due to dealership stupidity.
This makes me ask a question, is the warranty really any good if you can't trust the service people and dealer staff to follow safety protocols. Warranty isn't worth the paper its wrote on if the dealers aren't being safe and the car kills you. Pretty much reamed them out today, told them im very close to unwinding this entire deal.
Well the saga of my Vette down at 63 miles with broken valve springs just gets better and better. So the car has now been sitting at the dealer for 16 days parts did come in last Friday 10/9/20. Now it gets good, the day I first picked the car up, I had to tell the paper work guy put on a mask. Following week car is in the shop, he wants me to redo some paper, again he is in no mask. Nor was most of the staff. I refused to enter his office and made him bring the paper to me, and told him you guys are running one very dangerous operation. < I was pissed> Monday 10/12 dealership discovers they are infected. Closed down for undetermined amount of time while employees are tested. It may 2 to 14 days before they really know the depth of the problem. So now the car sits. Now I have to question is the car itself contaminated and presume that it is. Can you ever really be sure the car is clean again and safe to drive? Do I now own the best looking casket ever made due to dealership stupidity.
This makes me ask a question, is the warranty really any good if you can't trust the service people and dealer staff to follow safety protocols. Warranty isn't worth the paper its wrote on if the dealers aren't being safe and the car kills you. Pretty much reamed them out today, told them im very close to unwinding this entire deal.
I think the virus dies after a few days on most surfaces, so the car should be okay if it sits there and no one goes in it.
Park it in the sun, windows down. Sunlight will help inactivate the virus. Before you drive it home wipe down all the surfaces with some disinfectant wipes. You'll be fine.
Add my 10 day old, 265 mile C8 to the broken valve spring list. Sitting at the dealer's shop waiting on 16 backordered valve springs...probably going to be a significant wait.
Yes, this is very upsetting, but it will get fixed and the car is truly fabulous. Yes, a supplier screwed up for whatever reason. Just trying to keep this problem in perspective.
Some might be interested that my car was built just 10 days AFTER the TSB says you're ok, 9/25. Now attempting to get it covered as though it was built 10 days earlier.
Hope nobody wastes our time by chiming in to simply rag on GM and or the C8. That gets very tiring on this forum.
Add my 10 day old, 265 mile C8 to the broken valve spring list. Sitting at the dealer's shop waiting on 16 backordered valve springs...probably going to be a significant wait.
Yes, this is very upsetting, but it will get fixed and the car is truly fabulous. Yes, a supplier screwed up for whatever reason. Just trying to keep this problem in perspective.
Some might be interested that my car was built just 10 days AFTER the TSB says you're ok, 9/25. Now attempting to get it covered as though it was built 10 days earlier.
Hope nobody wastes our time by chiming in to simply rag on GM and or the C8. That gets very tiring on this forum.
TSB is unreliable for the cutoff because it's not really the build date of the car that's the concern, it's when the engine was assembled. We just had a 2021 Silverado 6.2 grenade due to a broken valve spring at 56 miles. Built on 9/28, sold on 10/9, blew up on 10/10. We're now trying to source a new engine.
Last edited by Gearhead SS; Oct 13, 2020 at 04:45 PM.
TSB is unreliable for the cutoff because it's not really the build date of the car that's the concern, it's when the engine was assembled. We just had a 2021 Silverado 6.2 grenade due to a broken valve spring at 56 miles. Built on 9/28, sold on 10/9, blew up on 10/10. We're now trying to source a new engine.
This is good info, is there any way to decipher the sticker on the end of the head? I have a picture of mine, but it doesn't seem to be a date in what is on it.
This is good info, is there any way to decipher the sticker on the end of the head? I have a picture of mine, but it doesn't seem to be a date in what is on it.
I'm sure there is but I don't have access to that information. I think that's something that some people within GM can decipher, maybe even someone from a dealership parts department but I don't have access to anything like that.
I'm sure there is but I don't have access to that information. I think that's something that some people within GM can decipher, maybe even someone from a dealership parts department but I don't have access to anything like that.
Don't know what the build date sticker looks like, but LS7 was like this as taken from poster "eaglei" who was an LS7 engine builder:
"Can someone decode the Zad number below for me please?
ZAD 331602807 Hey Maxx,
ZAD = 2008 Model year LS7 33 = Built at Wixom PBC on line A3 160 = Julian build date June 8 28 = Built on A3 during 2008 07 = 7th engine from A3 that day
So yours was built near the end of 2008 model production."
Check engine light on at 670 miles (still babied car)
