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I just had this happen too. Driver side looks like the second picture and passenger side looks like the first. Totally coincidentally, was pulling into the courthouse next door to the Chevy dealership (to pay a speeding ticket…) when it happened, so they threw a zip tie on it so I could close the top since they can’t fit me in to fix it until next week. Looked at it a little more when I got home, and decided to snip off the zip tie and just use a twisty tie. Am I crazy to think I can just twisty tie it when I want the top up, and untie it when I want the top down? Sure, takes a tiny bit of effort each time, and can’t do it while driving, but I drive with the top down like 95% of the time, and I don’t have garage space for it right now, so I can’t just leave the top down all the time.
I wonder if once these cars are out of the bumper to bumper warranty the broken cable could be taken to some place like a bicycle shop where they could just replace the inner cable.
I just had this happen too. Driver side looks like the second picture and passenger side looks like the first. Totally coincidentally, was pulling into the courthouse next door to the Chevy dealership (to pay a speeding ticket…) when it happened, so they threw a zip tie on it so I could close the top since they can’t fit me in to fix it until next week. Looked at it a little more when I got home, and decided to snip off the zip tie and just use a twisty tie. Am I crazy to think I can just twisty tie it when I want the top up, and untie it when I want the top down? Sure, takes a tiny bit of effort each time, and can’t do it while driving, but I drive with the top down like 95% of the time, and I don’t have garage space for it right now, so I can’t just leave the top down all the time.
Can you please post a picture of yours with the zip/twist tie so I can see how/where you did it, just in case it happens to me.
Honestly, it’s actually incredibly obvious if it happens, so you will not have an issue figuring it out. I’ll try to get you a picture later, but not something you’ll actually need, in my opinion.
Originally Posted by C7Me
Can you please post a picture of yours with the zip/twist tie so I can see how/where you did it, just in case it happens to me.
I wonder if once these cars are out of the bumper to bumper warranty the broken cable could be taken to some place like a bicycle shop where they could just replace the inner cable.
I don't have a part in front of me but if the cable is similar to a bike brake cable, and just has a metal **** on the end that has broken off inside the black composite housing... the answer depends on if there is enough cable left to use to re-secure it. If there is, you can ball up the end or crimp something else on it and epoxy it all together, and it can be just as strong (but look goofy). If there's not enough cable to work with, you're stuck.
The real thing to look out for is a update to the part. Will be interesting to see if it's a quality problem with the cables or a design problem that needs a stronger cable end.
Edit - eh, there's a picture further above that shows the cable looks to have a disc or T on the end of it, that the held in place by the black box. So 99% chance they're breaking off at that connector. In that picture you can see the little end **** inside the box, with the cable fed through the slot. I wonder if some cars are a little out of alignment or something gets bent and the cable is rubbing on the black slot and side loading the cable a little back and forth. Cables like this won't last long with that happening.
I don't have a part in front of me but if the cable is similar to a bike brake cable, and just has a metal **** on the end that has broken off inside the black composite housing... the answer depends on if there is enough cable left to use to re-secure it. If there is, you can ball up the end or crimp something else on it and epoxy it all together, and it can be just as strong (but look goofy). If there's not enough cable to work with, you're stuck.
The real thing to look out for is a update to the part. Will be interesting to see if it's a quality problem with the cables or a design problem that needs a stronger cable end.
Edit - eh, there's a picture further above that shows the cable looks to have a disc or T on the end of it, that the held in place by the black box. So 99% chance they're breaking off at that connector. In that picture you can see the little end **** inside the box, with the cable fed through the slot. I wonder if some cars are a little out of alignment or something gets bent and the cable is rubbing on the black slot and side loading the cable a little back and forth. Cables like this won't last long with that happening.
Yea, I didn't think there would be enough of the cable left to repair. But the inner cable may be able to be replaced while keeping the OEM housing.
The transaxle shift cable on my Maserati Merak failed. I had a custom made cable made for way less than what they wanted for a NOS cable.
I don't have a part in front of me but if the cable is similar to a bike brake cable, and just has a metal **** on the end that has broken off inside the black composite housing... the answer depends on if there is enough cable left to use to re-secure it. If there is, you can ball up the end or crimp something else on it and epoxy it all together, and it can be just as strong (but look goofy). If there's not enough cable to work with, you're stuck.
The "redesign" would be a loop in the cable end before crimping on the final connector... significantly stronger to pull-out forces. But no, GM will likely just replace the cable with the same connector crimped onto the tail end of the cable, providing minimal resistance to extraction.
The "redesign" would be a loop in the cable end before crimping on the final connector... significantly stronger to pull-out forces. But no, GM will likely just replace the cable with the same connector crimped onto the tail end of the cable, providing minimal resistance to extraction.
There was a discussion on the other forum about this. The cable breaks at the ferrule, it doesn't pull out of the ferrule. The ferrule appears to be cast around the cable. Search for "HTC Failure" on the other forum.
There was a discussion on the other forum about this. The cable breaks at the ferrule, it doesn't pull out of the ferrule. The ferrule appears to be cast around the cable. Search for "HTC Failure" on the other forum.
Okay, so it's the ferrule/cable interface that fails... too much flexure at the interface causing breakage at the cable, I assume? A loop at the end (and I wasn't clear in my original post, I was suggesting the loop is the final attachment point and no longer the ferrule) would reduce the ferrule failure mode, regardless of whether that mode is slippage of cable from the ferrule or breakage of the cable at the ferrule interface (of course, assuming the cable itself is strong enough, which I see no evidence yet to suggest otherwise).
Okay, so it's the ferrule/cable interface that fails... too much flexure at the interface causing breakage at the cable, I assume? A loop at the end (and I wasn't clear in my original post, I was suggesting the loop is the final attachment point and no longer the ferrule) would reduce the ferrule failure mode, regardless of whether that mode is slippage of cable from the ferrule or breakage of the cable at the ferrule interface (of course, assuming the cable itself is strong enough, which I see no evidence yet to suggest otherwise).
Could be flexure, damage during the process of installing a ferrule, perhaps a heat affected zone if the ferrule is molded in place. I know for automotive wiring crimping is prefered to soldering because soldered wire can have a brittle heat affected zone and be susceptible to breakage at that point.
I don't know if a loop will work in that location. The cable appears to be a through cable with the ferrule in an intermediate location. We'd need to see the details of the end of the cable.
My cable just popped out at a car show as I was scrambling to close the top during a pop up storm. It's the cable that goes into one of the black folding spring loaded arms. Top won't close unless someone holds the arm closed while lowering the top. My cable didn't break it just popped out but I can't see how to reattach it. Any help please?
My cable just popped out at a car show as I was scrambling to close the top during a pop up storm. It's the cable that goes into one of the black folding spring loaded arms. Top won't close unless someone holds the arm closed while lowering the top. My cable didn't break it just popped out but I can't see how to reattach it. Any help please?
Exactly. Pulling from lead end. Someone posted on here how they repaired usind Liquid Steel.
The cable isn't pulling out of the ferrule (at least in the pictures I've seen posted), it is breaking where it goes into the ferrule. It appears the the process of installing the ferrule is weakening the cable or there is some kind of localized flexure at that point.
Last year my neighbor Klaudia came over and informed me of her 2020 C8 HTC "Cable failure", and how she had to use a wire tie to help close the convertible top. This week while putting the top up on my 2022 C8 convertible in our driveway, I heard a sudden binding sound, then I noticed my top was not operating properly, turns out the same cable as Klaudia's broke or malfunctioned on my car. I imagine that if two neighbors that don't travel together and have various year C8 productions, this must be a problem through at least a two-year production line. I am taking my car in today for the repairs, but I would love to know if anyone else is having this problem? On both of our cars, the Cable issue has been on the Driver's side, and in order to close the top, you have to fold under the retracting black trim piece (I don't know what this is called). Folding the black trim piece is not a fix but will allow the top to close until you can get your car in for repairs.
Separate issue I experienced involving the convertible top. A few months ago, while putting the top up I also heard a loud sudden binding sound. When I looked to see what happened I noticed the paint where the trunk and convertible top come together at a raised profile point, both trunk and top have a 1/4" chip of paint missing showing the white composite body panel (Driver's side also). I took the car to my Dealer's Body Shop, where I was informed the trunk was not properly aligned during production. This repair is also being taken care of with this Body Shop / Repair visit today.
I am in Bowling Green for the caravan. After checking oil for the trip home I heard a “snap” as the top was closing & stopped the process. The cable on the passenger side had snapped at the end. I was (barely) able to fold the piece back enough to close the roof for the trip home. It seems like this may be a common issue. Mine is a 2023 with only 7,200 miles on her. I do use the top, but try not to do it too often.
From: South Lousiana (Cajun Boys with Bad ASS Toys)
Originally Posted by RKCRLR
The cable isn't pulling out of the ferrule (at least in the pictures I've seen posted), it is breaking where it goes into the ferrule. It appears the the process of installing the ferrule is weakening the cable or there is some kind of localized flexure at that point.
From: South Lousiana (Cajun Boys with Bad ASS Toys)
When a cable breaks, I didnt understand what people are using the tie wrap to do to get top closed or what?/ I carry tie wraps but wouldnt know what to do in case of HTC cable failure?
When a cable breaks, I didnt understand what people are using the tie wrap to do to get top closed or what?/ I carry tie wraps but wouldnt know what to do in case of HTC cable failure?
