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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourselfers...
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Android Head Unit & Backup Camera Installation
Back on topic, the following video shows how to update this HU from 4.2.2 to 4.4.4 using this firmware update.
THANKS
I did not attempt to enable it because my device isn't rooted and I don't need this capability. If you send the seller a note I'm sure you will receive a prompt response.
Was hoping the newer version would offer it.. I think i will stick with the App Radio and HDMI Stick ( I am removing my tablet for various reasons)

Last edited by bjmsam; Jan 1, 2015 at 05:51 PM. Reason: added link to exact image I used
1. Red HU ACC wire spliced to red PAC ACC wire and PAC blue/white amplifier wire so that amplifier is enabled whenever power is on.
2. 12 terminal GM connector. Cut yellow and green/white wires. On connector end, yellow PAC wire to HU KEY1 and green/white PAC wire to HU GND wire. Other ends of the PAC wires going to the PAC module taped up and not used.
A few other questions:
1. Since the PAC SWC function is not used, does it matter what the PAC rotary switch is set to?
2. Did you require the chime module or do chime sounds function normally through the car speakers?
3. What steps did you have to go through to pair the OBDLink MX Bluetooth?
How did everything work out for you? Do you like the unit?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Name Color
SAF Pink
K1 Brown
CAN-RX Blue/Black
CAN-TX Blue/White
K-2 Brown White
And anyone know what Split Machine is and has anyone confirmed the Ant lead is active in all modes for AMP triggering..
YMMV.
I'm no expert, and it has now been several months since I completed the installation, but:
You might consider wiring the amp trigger to the switched power as I described to ensure that the amp is on whenever the HU is on. Key 1 and Key 2 in my description refer to K1 and K2 (only one is needed for the SWC in the C6). I believe CAN+ and CAN- are for CAN bus (not used), and I believe Split Device is when multiple devices are combined (not used). I don't remember the pink SAF wire; perhaps it is for the emergency brake (SAFety) signal...
I'm sure the seller would be happy to provide authoritative answers to your questions!
Installation as outlined by bjmsam was straightforward. The RP5-GM11 interface works OK and the steering wheel buttons function correctly with the modified hookup he used.
There are serious problems with the FM radio. It's picking up alternator whine. This only occurs on FM (maybe also AM, but who listens to AM). It does not occur in any other sound modes, i.e. playing MP3 files, CDs, or nav voice. It also stops playing immediately if you turn on the windshield wipers. Yeah it's bizarre! The sound dies, but it you change stations, it plays the new station for a few seconds and then dies again. Just like the alternator whine, signal strength has no effect, strong local stations a few miles away are affected just the same as fringe stations. My guess is that they used some really cheap AM/FM radio submodule that is affected by noise on the 12 volt power. It's not HD radio. And the sensitivity is not nearly as good as the Kenwood.
Anyone have any ideas? Any similar issues with other HUs?
The WIFI range is also very limited. It picks up my home WIFI when the car is parked in the garage or WIFI at Starbucks when the car is parked right in front of the store. Other devices with WIFI such as a Samsung smartphone or Android Nexus 7 tablet have a much wider range inside the car under the same conditions.
A final observation on video. I have a front camera (to keep an expensive carbon fiber splitter from turning into splinters on curbstones). The video quality was so-so with the Kenwood. I did some experiments and found that the camera itself was not the problem. The Kenwood was installed by a "pro" who used the cheap extension cable that came with the camera and just coiled up the extra length of about 5-6 feet (too lazy to trim it to length and solder on a new plug). Replacing the video cable with some good quality RG-59 made a world of difference. The video is now much sharper.
Installation as outlined by bjmsam was straightforward. The RP5-GM11 interface works OK and the steering wheel buttons function correctly with the modified hookup he used.
There are serious problems with the FM radio. It's picking up alternator whine. This only occurs on FM (maybe also AM, but who listens to AM). It does not occur in any other sound modes, i.e. playing MP3 files, CDs, or nav voice. It also stops playing immediately if you turn on the windshield wipers. Yeah it's bizarre! The sound dies, but it you change stations, it plays the new station for a few seconds and then dies again. Just like the alternator whine, signal strength has no effect, strong local stations a few miles away are affected just the same as fringe stations. My guess is that they used some really cheap AM/FM radio submodule that is affected by noise on the 12 volt power. It's not HD radio. And the sensitivity is not nearly as good as the Kenwood.
Anyone have any ideas? Any similar issues with other HUs?
The WIFI range is also very limited. It picks up my home WIFI when the car is parked in the garage or WIFI at Starbucks when the car is parked right in front of the store. Other devices with WIFI such as a Samsung smartphone or Android Nexus 7 tablet have a much wider range inside the car under the same conditions.
A final observation on video. I have a front camera (to keep an expensive carbon fiber splitter from turning into splinters on curbstones). The video quality was so-so with the Kenwood. I did some experiments and found that the camera itself was not the problem. The Kenwood was installed by a "pro" who used the cheap extension cable that came with the camera and just coiled up the extra length of about 5-6 feet (too lazy to trim it to length and solder on a new plug). Replacing the video cable with some good quality RG-59 made a world of difference. The video is now much sharper.
Just guessing here
The wi-fi capability is meant to enable other devices in the car when the HU acquires internet connectivity from a 3G dongle or phone. The HU is buried in a metal chassis in the middle of a metal dash and has no external wi-fi antenna so limited range is to be expected. The $20 wi-fi router I installed in the garage enabled full strength signal.
All of these antennas are active antennas. The XM antennas have LNB block downconverters built in, the FM diversity module has preamps and switching built in, and the active AM antenna has a FET source follower. The modules containing the active electronics for the FM and AM antennas are accessible by removing the rear interior trim panel. If power is lost to a module, or a module is defective, you'll have very poor or no reception.
Poor XM reception in rural areas is to be expected if the antennas don't have a clear view of the southern sky. Hills, buildings, or even heavy vegetation, can block the signal. In most urban areas, XM has terrestrial repeaters to fill in for signal loss due to urban clutter. Sometimes these repeaters are out of service. It isn't uncommon to suddenly find you can't receive a signal in areas which worked before, then in a few days the signal is back. That's simply because the repeater for that area was down, and was then repaired.
Dual diversity virtually eliminates multipath flutter on FM signals. If you get lots of flutter on weak signals, suspect one of the FM antennas is broken. If all signals are weak, suspect that the diversity module has failed.
AM reception in a plastic car is problematic. The wavelengths of AM broadcast signals are so long that there are only two sorts of practical antennas, the ferrite loaded loop, or the voltage probe. Since loop antennas are directional, they aren't suitable for a car, so voltage probe it is. The voltage probe antenna works by sensing the potential difference of the EM wave between ground and a point located above ground. Normally, the metal car body is used as the RF ground (its capacitance to true Earth supplies the RF ground connection). But the Corvette doesn't have a metal body, so the frame is used. The frame isn't nearly as large a capacitor plate as a metal body, so while it works, it doesn't work exceedingly well. A bad frame ground connection to the AM module will result in very poor AM reception.
Most likely you have a bad ground connection to the AM module. Probably a failure to bite through the paint where the wire attaches to the frame, or possibly a cross threaded screw that didn't tighten down on the wire enough to make good electrical contact.
Last edited by bjmsam; Jan 19, 2015 at 08:27 AM. Reason: added link to potentially related thread


















) or is it hard wired for reverse only?

