found them...wrong folder but theres a lot..

heres a good cross section of the work
cut out the crossmember


lots more room which you will need to get the shifter in past the crossmember, you would have to go in sideways and you cant if its attached to the engine


flanges welded on, I wouuld have given more room for the tubes if I had thought about it more to get teh nuts on the top holes easier.
the tranny mount is still stock in this pic


this is the stock shifter position. I marked it with silver sharpie to make a cover for the hole


I marked where the shifter top would come up. I cut the small hole but you will neeed the big square hole to get the best driveline angle and to get the stock rubber or poly mounts to work


you need to do this. When I went to TKX i re-fiberglassed it all. I used tinm to cover right up to the shifter box to keep the heat out, then used a camaro shift boot to cover it. I also cut up and custom made a fiberglass tunnel heat shield. THe pieces I cut out I reused to fill in the origianl hole and held it together with the aluminum heat tape









The mounting bracket mod


stock side mounting hole..i trimmed right along the hole

on the mount I trimmed off enough to get it to fit back until it hit the stock mount on the crossmember, in a later pic I trimmed the crossmemeber bracket a hair to get more room


that slope needs a pocket


the mount hit the front of the bracket so I had to trim a hair off. It hit the angle on the side


trimmed off the roundness on the top so it would sit flat. I dont have a pic but those two top holes but You will have to trim off some metal and redrill the holes



slotting the top so i can bend it flat to make the pocket



I welded a channel around the back to make the pocket solid





cut up the shift bracket that cam with my Tranny to shift it to the left. It worked great,. third and 5th need the very back of the new bracket angled down so it wouldnt hit the console...no pics of that



I put in riv-nuts for the shift boot.





I didnt want to touch this bracket. I think I looked at trying to mount the rubber mount right to the tranny and it would eliminate all the work I had to do

 

Don’t forget about your drive shaft angles, before you start cutting and fabricating the new transmission mounting bracket and crossmember.

 

That's why it has to be so high, to match the muncie angle

 

This is extremley helpful!! Thanks so much for the pics and details!!!

 

I found MDL makes the below mount for the C3, which appears to be short and dropped down for these 5 speed trans. They also have the weld on flange kits. Anyone have experience with the below mount? They only have one picture!

https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop...bc-or-bbc-tkx/

 

That is the same one Silver Sport Transmissions uses in their conversion kit.
If you call them you might get a better deal.

 

Good call OCB!!! SST has this for half the price:

 

Glad to be of help.
The one that came in my SST kit was top quality and seems to be well made with thick material.

 

Glad to hear it, I went ahead and ordered one!

 

I've been tinkering with the drivers side upper fender corner to figure out how to get it perfectly aligned and stay in place. I used a little bit of a different strategy and drilled holes to utilize the Cleco clips to hold the piece in place onto the bonding strips I put on . I then mixed up some VPA and put it back into place with the cleco clips: It's aligned very well and the alignment and fit is great! Once this cures I'm going to V groove the seam and fiberglass it in.

 

I was in dallas all week for work and came home to my new SST trans crossmember mount, so I spent some time in the shop putting it on this morning.

Mount is the perfect dimensions to fit the McLeod 5 speed, here's a pic next to the OEM piece:



Got the mount on and mocked it up: fits great! I need to bolt everything down and put the driveshaft in and we're good to go on the 5 speed swap!
​​​​​​​

 

Does the circled in red give you any concern. I would think no space will be better. Great project you are doing.

 

its not bolted together yet, Im sure it will slide backwards and align

 

It would bother me if it was bolted down, but it doesn't have bolts on either end and it just sitting there. It'll slide back once it's bolted in place, or I will be worried! lol

 

Last night I was able to bond in one of my fender corners after getting some good instruction and strategy from Mercury 20:

I used a wooden dowel wrapped in 60 grit to carefully sand in a trench to lay my glass into the seam



I then cut little strips of glass to lay dow​​​​​​​n and put down some tape on and strategic cardboard behind under the fender and other places to control the resin mess



The trench w​​​​​​​as sized perfectly w​​​​​​​ith the glass strips and I was successfull at laying the glass with no air:

 

Did a blocking on the glassed seem and it cleaned up nicely. I'm not 100% if the best next step is to skim with VPA , or add more fiberglass until it's even? I'm pretty certain VPA is appropriate at this point, but will confirm before moving forward. It'll be blended in and seamless at that point and then i'll move over to the passenger side to wrap that one up and I can finally have this chapter closed!

 

I will likely need to do the same thing.
Can you please show what the other side looks like before you put that back on?
And show both sides of the piece you cut off?
Isn't there a piece that pop rivits to the frame in that area?

 

I created bonding strips by cutting tabs of fiberglass and clamping them to the fender and using VPA as the adhesive. I then aligned the fender corner on a hundred times until I found where it would go and stay perfectly and marked it with markers to make alignment marks. I held it in place carefully and drilled holed to use Cleco clips to hold the fender corner onto the bonding strips. Once I triple checked, I pulled it back off and bonded in with VPA using the Cleco clips to hold the fender to the bonding strips. Once cured, I removed the clips and used the above method of sanding out a groove to glass in. I agonized about the alignment but was able to get it back 100%!

 

I need to do this to my 71 also so I really appreciate the info, but I do have 2 questions:

1) Would you explain in more detail about "cutting tabs of fiberglass" to create the bonding strip?

2) Did you allow for the loss of fiberglass material due to the width of the blade used to cut the corner off when you positioned the piece back on to adhere it to you new bonding strip. If you did, why would you need sand in a groove for glassing it in is there was alreadyt a gap there? Rather than it being a groove, was it just beveling the edges??

Any detail photos would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks

 

I have heard of fixing the windshield frame this way, by cutting the corner off.
But there is an inner piece that attaches with 3 rivits here:
How do you cut or fix that piece?


Your pic. There were 3 rivits here


How do you deal with this inner piece?


Another view of the inner piece

How do you cut or fix that piece?